I have enough trouble with people who can't use the EAS software, I don't have the spare time or the familiarity to deal with all the comebacks on the Easy OBD which only deals with some ECU's. I could also do a USB version of the cable, I have made one, but again too many problems with drivers to be worth my while. I do the EAS cable on pretty much a no profit basis, charity only goes so far:)

Absolutely ! This is why I tend to lose my rag a bit when people moan about diagnostic charges.They want an EAS lead and OBD stuff for ten quid,my Autologic was about £9600 with the vat - for Testbook T4 I had to pay £10,700 with the vat.Ok, I run a LR garage,but it all needs paying for.....
 
Absolutely ! This is why I tend to lose my rag a bit when people moan about diagnostic charges.They want an EAS lead and OBD stuff for ten quid,my Autologic was about £9600 with the vat - for Testbook T4 I had to pay £10,700 with the vat.Ok, I run a LR garage,but it all needs paying for.....

People don't see it that way. Tell them if they have a problem with it, to go talk to a solicitor for an hour. :D:D
 
I finished the top end rebuild last weekend after overheating issues. All back together and started up after a few turns.
Cured the overheating problem.
The problem I have now is the engine is quite lumpy and does not want to rev well and down on power.
I have checked over everything to make sure I've not missed a connector. All looks good. Checked firing order, all ok.
Any ideas would be a great help.

Seems like a lot of people want you to invest in all sorts of diagnostic kit of sorts, even though they probably haven't done it themselves, in most cases! I think this is bad advice. Don't ! it will be expensive and you probably have no hope of understanding the results. Just get an independant with TestBook, AutoLogic etc who know their stuff. It will cost £50/60 ish and worth every penny if done correctly.

So. Have you pulled the plugs and are they all coloured OK? If you had the plugs out did you do a compression test, this will verify your repair work? Its a simple process and very DIY. Next try spraying some Brake/Carb cleaner, while the engine is on idle, on all the possible places that could cause an air leak, if the engine changes in any way you have found an air leak, often the cause of bad idle and running. (Make shure you have an extinguisher handy and dont spray too much especially near the exhaust). The compression test especially is good practice even though you have replaced both head gaskets. If all OK next is the diagnostics and go from there.
 
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If you can do the repairs your self an EVO is a bloody good tool. And you can keep on top of things.
 
Absolutely ! This is why I tend to lose my rag a bit when people moan about diagnostic charges.They want an EAS lead and OBD stuff for ten quid,my Autologic was about £9600 with the vat - for Testbook T4 I had to pay £10,700 with the vat.Ok, I run a LR garage,but it all needs paying for.....

Although the P38 is intrinsically unreliable, the only bit that needs regular attention (on the diesel) IMO is the EAS, so the EAS cable & CD is a good DIY option. Loads of people sell the kit on Ebay, I only started to offer it as I thought the prices were a rip off considering the software is free. I make a donation for every cable sold to Storey Wilson.
As for other systems, if people want to DIY then buying a good reliable diagnostic tool such as the Nanocom EVO is the only way forward. Even then many will not understand what they are seeing but can get answers on here. The cheapo stuff is unlikely to give reliable results and I don't want to be involved.
I normally charge for diagnostics with my Faultmate by the by. There is owt for nowt in this life:)
 
Quick update, pulled the top inlet manifold off today.
The gasket looks to have been leaking and was slightly damaged. I must of damaged it when placing them manifold on. Put back together with a new manifold gasket, being very careful this time.
Started up ok and sounds good.
Took it for a drive and it much better.
The thing is I now have a slight hesitation when pulling away and the kick down is crap. Like a slight miss fire. It seems to be electrical.
The story continues!
 
Quick update, pulled the top inlet manifold off today.
The gasket looks to have been leaking and was slightly damaged. I must of damaged it when placing them manifold on. Put back together with a new manifold gasket, being very careful this time.
Started up ok and sounds good.
Took it for a drive and it much better.
The thing is I now have a slight hesitation when pulling away and the kick down is crap. Like a slight miss fire. It seems to be electrical.
The story continues!


Good news, perhaps the fuel trims will take a while to come back in range after running it with an air leak?
 

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