KNine

KNine

Active Member
My Disco 1 randomly stalled today after driving for about 30 minutes. It also happened once about a month ago, but never before that. Basically the engine just cuts out while I am driving, with only the battery light illuminating as an indication of a fault. When attempting to re start, the engine does start and runs at tick over revs but I am unable to accelerate or Rev the engine. In this state the exhaust blows dirty dark grey smoke. After turning the ignition off and waiting for 5 to 10 minutes it will start again fine, no smoke, and I am able to rev the engine and drive again. I have done a quick search and found one line mentioning a fuel solenoid and also something about alarm/imobaliser.
Is anyone familiar with this fault and able to provide more information.
My engine is a 300tdi with auto box.
Many thanks.
 
Well that is one function the immobiliser has, to cut the 12v supply to your fuel solenoid, but the symptom u describe is usually associated with spider equipped vehicles.

Carry a length of wire with a clip each end and when/if it happens again just provide a direct supply from the vehicle battery to the fuel solenoid, this is only a means of testing therefore not permanent, your issue may be nothing to do with the immobiliser.
You'll have to make sure you have easy access to the correct electrical connection at the solenoid before hand and not be doing it by the road side in the rain. :)

A permanent fix, if required, will be installing an ignition switched supply to your your fuel solenoid.
 
Last edited:
discool said:
Well that is one function the immobiliser has, to cut the 12v supply to your fuel solenoid, but the symptom u describe is usually associated with spider equipped vehicles.
Carry a length of wire with a clip each end and when/if it happens again just provide a direct supply from the vehicle battery to the fuel solenoid, this is only a means of testing therefore not permanent, your issue may be nothing to do with the immobiliser.
You'll have to make sure you have easy access to the correct electrical connection at the solenoid before hand and not be doing it by the road side in the rain. :)

A permanent fix, if required, will be installing an ignition switched supply to your your fuel solenoid.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Forgive my ignorance, but what is a Spider?
Am I right in saying that the temporary length of cable will provide a constant supply to the solenoid should the car fail to run the next time this happens?
Cheers.
 
Mouse_spider.jpg
 
discool said:
Well that is one function the immobiliser has, to cut the 12v supply to your fuel solenoid, but the symptom u describe is usually associated with spider equipped vehicles.

Carry a length of wire with a clip each end and when/if it happens again just provide a direct supply from the vehicle battery to the fuel solenoid, this is only a means of testing therefore not permanent, your issue may be nothing to do with the immobiliser.
You'll have to make sure you have easy access to the correct electrical connection at the solenoid before hand and not be doing it by the road side in the rain. :)

A permanent fix, if required, will be installing an ignition switched supply to your your fuel solenoid.
Click to expand...
I have just read up on the Spider problem and my car must have a spider as I have the key fob with the two switches. I assume that I may have a dry solder joint so my fault will be intermittent until it finally packes in.
Am I right in saying that fitting an independent switched live to the solenoid will resolve the problem by by-passing the spider, thus rendering that part of the immobiliser as redundant?
 
you can buy lr bypass lead amr4956,or make your own it cuts fuel solenoid feed and earth for starter relay
 
KNine said:
I have just read up on the Spider problem and my car must have a spider as I have the key fob with the two switches. I assume that I may have a dry solder joint so my fault will be intermittent until it finally packes in.
Am I right in saying that fitting an independent switched live to the solenoid will resolve the problem by by-passing the spider, thus rendering that part of the immobiliser as redundant?
Click to expand...

A two button security system when fitted to a D1 diesel auto does not have a spider immobiliser, the reason is it has and electronic diesel control (EDC)s uses another means of immobilising the engine.

And answer your question, Yes the temporary length of cable will provide a constant supply to the solenoid should the car fail to run the next time this happens?.
 
discool said:
A two button security system when fitted to a D1 diesel auto does not have a spider immobiliser, the reason is it has and electronic diesel control (EDC)s uses another means of immobilising the engine.

And answer your question, Yes the temporary length of cable will provide a constant supply to the solenoid should the car fail to run the next time this happens?.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the info Discool. So I now know I don't have a spider, it is EDC.
My last question is this. Assuming I fit a perminant switched live to the single connection at the fuel solenoid as a final solution, then what was causing the fault in the first place? Is it a dodgy live cable to the solenoid?
 
jamesmartin said:
you can buy lr bypass lead amr4956,or make your own it cuts fuel solenoid feed and earth for starter relay
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, but I have just learned that my car does not have a spider as it is an EDC model, so can't use this by-pass cable.
 
you will still have an immob controlled by a computer.

sounds like it's either corroded wiring/spade, no power or sticking solenoid.

first go locate the wire to the fuel solenoid. it might be corroded and just needing a clean up.

get a multimeter and see if you are getting 12v on the wire

if all is well, go drive around and when it mucks up again, go whip that wire off and stick the multi on.. is it getting 12v?

if it is, then it might just be a sticky solenoid and not the wiring. or just replace it anyway if you want.. it's about 7 quid.

ofc it might not be anything to do with that (though it sounds like it) it could be something like blocked filters/lines, or a vacuum in the tank. you can check by removing the cap and listen for a sucking of air.
 
KNine said:
Thanks for all the info Discool. So I now know I don't have a spider, it is EDC.
My last question is this. Assuming I fit a perminant switched live to the single connection at the fuel solenoid as a final solution, then what was causing the fault in the first place? Is it a dodgy live cable to the solenoid?
Click to expand...

Your the only person that can find what the cause is.
Theres a lot simpler ways of bypassing a spider immobiliser, without removing most of the centre dash, which u don't have as they were only fitted to the 1995MY diesel autos, EDC came with the 1996MY diesel.
 
trax said:
you will still have an immob controlled by a computer.

sounds like it's either corroded wiring/spade, no power or sticking solenoid.

first go locate the wire to the fuel solenoid. it might be corroded and just needing a clean up.

get a multimeter and see if you are getting 12v on the wire

if all is well, go drive around and when it mucks up again, go whip that wire off and stick the multi on.. is it getting 12v?

if it is, then it might just be a sticky solenoid and not the wiring. or just replace it anyway if you want.. it's about 7 quid.

ofc it might not be anything to do with that (though it sounds like it) it could be something like blocked filters/lines, or a vacuum in the tank. you can check by removing the cap and listen for a sucking of air.
Click to expand...

Thanks Trax, great advice. I know I have 12v on wire at the moment. I will clean up connection though, order a new solenoid and keep in spares box. I will also make the temporary wire that Discool spoke about.
 
KNine said:
My Disco 1 randomly stalled today after driving for about 30 minutes. It also happened once about a month ago, but never before that. Basically the engine just cuts out while I am driving, with only the battery light illuminating as an indication of a fault. When attempting to re start, the engine does start and runs at tick over revs but I am unable to accelerate or Rev the engine. In this state the exhaust blows dirty dark grey smoke. After turning the ignition off and waiting for 5 to 10 minutes it will start again fine, no smoke, and I am able to rev the engine and drive again. I have done a quick search and found one line mentioning a fuel solenoid and also something about alarm/imobaliser.
Is anyone familiar with this fault and able to provide more information.
My engine is a 300tdi with auto box.
Many thanks.
Click to expand...

So, I am finally able to write an update having found the cause of the problem and fixed. It was down to a delaminated turbo hose that was restricting the flow of air (see photo). It was ballooning up inside the hose. When I drove hard, then took my foot of the excellerator to approach a junction, the balloon would be sucked in totally restricting the air flow. The end result was only diesel being sent to the pots, and no air, hence lots of smoke that smelt of fuel. I found the cause when I decided to remove the intercooler to giv it and it's associated hoses a good clean. Pleased that it is now fixed as I am going to Morroco in the car next month. To summarise, this is a fault that can present itself as a Spider type fault, except my car is an EDC model.
 

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