shocker

Well-Known Member
You know how the rear headbolts are a bugger to get a socket and bar on , especially when using a torque wrench ? Well , after having struggled with this more times than I call to recall , does anyone have any simple solution to this access problem short of dropping the engine or splitting and tilting it ?

Dont really want to get into messing with the engine mounts as this will take more time than the access fiddling ....maybe jacking the body up a little using wood blocks to spread the weight at contact point ? If so , where to jack ?

This has to be a simple dodge or , as above , one may as well just faff with the bolts as they are .
 
...Didnt think they were to bad mate, stay well clear of modern cars, makes a discovery seam like the easiest vehicle on the planet to work on!!!!
 
hi mr shocker i just use short socket fo the two rear bolts ,and use the flats as indicator for 60 degrees ,little torque wrench fits fine for the 40nm .2 magnets hold bolts while fitting and removal
 
When removing the head I put elastic band around the 2 rear bolts after lifting them to hold them out of the way then the head comes off sweet. :)
 
Thanks Stu ....thats the way I have always done it , too . Its the space between the bolt and the body I have trouble with , when the heads coming off . My back objects to the working at full stretch so I often use an air ratchet to back off the the bolts and there isnt room for that and the free'd bolt .
 
i havn't seen or tried to remove these bolts before but can the the said bolts be replaced with nuts and HT threaded bar.
 
No as they are stretch bolts which is why they are not recommended for re use.
If I have got this wrong please correct me :)
 
Book says 4 uses of headbolts max , if you dont know how many times they have been used , fit new . Unless you are up the jungle or otherwise away from replacements when improvisation rules the roost .
 

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