[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hi to all
here's my story
2002 range rover 115k miles
no problem when starting cold
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The car runs for around 10 minutes or miles give or take, Idle or driving, and then stalls, cranks fine but won't start for anywhere from 10 to 35 minutes, then i drive another 10 miles or so, stalls and then i have to wait and start the whole process over again.
I was told it was a fuel pump, replaced it but problem still there.

[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These are the codes read off snap on modus generic tester
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]po355 crank pos sensor
po101 mass air flow circuit range
p1669 manf specific
p1884 [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]manf specific

I was now told by a rover tech to replace the crank position sensor, and that this was a common problem with this truck and will fix my problem.
Before I do it, I was hoping for some other opinions

All help is much appriciated!!!
thanks in advance!
Adam
[/FONT]

Sorry dont have a diffinitive answer, but can give you a clue. I done a bit of digging and the p1884 code relates to a CAN signal error on the gearbox.

The manf specific refers to the fact the codes are unique to Land Rover. Dont discount the fact codes can be generated due to low battery voltage caused by extended cranking, this is especially true of a gearbox fault. If I find anymore,I will post.

With my limited knowledge I would look at fuel pressure. There is point on the injector rail at the back of the inlet manifold to measure this. You will need a proper gauge though. May be fuel pressure regulator ?

Had the same problem twice before, once on my Integrale (crank pos sensor) and an XR3i (ign amplifier box on distributor) both break down with heat of use, hence the fact its OK when cool.

Hope this helps

Steve

asat said:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hi to all[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The car runs for around 10 minutes or miles give or take, Idle or driving, and then stalls, cranks fine but won't start for anywhere from 10 to 35 minutes, then i drive another 10 miles or so, stalls and then i have to wait and start the whole process over again. [/FONT]

Click to expand...

During cranking where it won't start, is it a totally dead crank or is it firing but not catching?

If it's a dead crank, next time it stalls and won't restart, whip out a spare spark plug from your pocket (it's a P38 - surely you carry a spare everything?), plug one of the HT leads into it, rest it on the engine (good earth) and crank again to see if there's a spark. If there is a spark, then it is highly unlikely to be the CPS sensor as it's obviously giving the ECU a sufficiently good signal to synch to.

If there is no spark, I'd start by replacing the CPS as that would seem to be a real possibility. Having said that, I've never seen a CPS that was temperature sensitive but anything is possible on a P38 .....

Good luck !