sp00k

sp00k

Well-Known Member
I finally changed my standard water temp gauge for one with numbers. I then went for a drive for half an hour at varying speeds to warm the engine. Once fully warmed, my steady operating temp according to the gauge was 94 degrees. This was hotter than I expected.

What is the normal working temperature range?

Heater works normally and well. Gauge temp does not seem to be affected by the heating, but I don't turn the heating on until the engine is warmed.
Top hose is hot, but can be held for several seconds no problem.
Top of rad is hot, hot enough to burn if you kept your hand on it. Rad gets progressively cooler towards the bottom and is totally cool from about half way down.
Bottom hose is cool.
Header tank water cool.

System does not seem to be developing/holding any pressure, but maybe I need to run it longer.

Last week I noticed some of my jubilee clips were slack , so I tightened everything up and topped up the system about 1/4 L of coolant.
 
sp00k said:
I finally changed my standard water temp gauge for one with numbers. I then went for a drive for half an hour at varying speeds to warm the engine. Once fully warmed, my steady operating temp according to the gauge was 94 degrees. This was hotter than I expected.

What is the normal working temperature range?

Heater works normally and well. Gauge temp does not seem to be affected by the heating, but I don't turn the heating on until the engine is warmed.
Top hose is hot, but can be held for several seconds no problem.
Top of rad is hot, hot enough to burn if you kept your hand on it. Rad gets progressively cooler towards the bottom and is totally cool from about half way down.
Bottom hose is cool.
Header tank water cool.

System does not seem to be developing/holding any pressure, but maybe I need to run it longer.

Last week I noticed some of my jubilee clips were slack , so I tightened everything up and topped up the system about 1/4 L of coolant.
Click to expand...

Similar to mine, quite toasty when it gets warm but takes ages, header always cool but bottom hose warmish, I do have half the rad blanked off though and no fan:)
 
Hmm. Still not happy with this. I've had a few good runs and seen temps as high as 97 when I'm at speed. I think my thermostat may be a bit sticky as I've occasionally seen the temp suddenly dip a few degrees. The fan has never been on, the bottom hose is never more than warm. Heating works great, so i don't think it's water circulation or air pockets.

In terms of stats, which is the best to go for? I replaced the one that was in with a Bearmach one when I got the engine.
 
I'd expect most diesels to run at 94 to 97 degrees.

My new 2.0tdi Vw Beetle runs at 98degrees all the time!

94 sounds pretty ok to me
 
Well, your the second person to tell me it's ok, so maybe I should start listening. My other diesel does not have a water temperature gauge, and I never worry about that.
 
sp00k said:
I finally changed my standard water temp gauge for one with numbers. I then went for a drive for half an hour at varying speeds to warm the engine. Once fully warmed, my steady operating temp according to the gauge was 94 degrees. This was hotter than I expected.

What is the normal working temperature range?

Heater works normally and well. Gauge temp does not seem to be affected by the heating, but I don't turn the heating on until the engine is warmed.
Top hose is hot, but can be held for several seconds no problem.
Top of rad is hot, hot enough to burn if you kept your hand on it. Rad gets progressively cooler towards the bottom and is totally cool from about half way down.
Bottom hose is cool.
Header tank water cool.

System does not seem to be developing/holding any pressure, but maybe I need to run it longer.

Last week I noticed some of my jubilee clips were slack , so I tightened everything up and topped up the system about 1/4 L of coolant.
Click to expand...

Did you take any pics of what you've done? :)
 
my oil temp runs at 80-95C if its any help.
80 round town, little to no boost, 90-95 on a motorway run, constant 60, boost around 8PSI constant
 
sp00k said:
I finally changed my standard water temp gauge for one with numbers. I then went for a drive for half an hour at varying speeds to warm the engine. Once fully warmed, my steady operating temp according to the gauge was 94 degrees. This was hotter than I expected.

What is the normal working temperature range?

Heater works normally and well. Gauge temp does not seem to be affected by the heating, but I don't turn the heating on until the engine is warmed.
Top hose is hot, but can be held for several seconds no problem.
Top of rad is hot, hot enough to burn if you kept your hand on it. Rad gets progressively cooler towards the bottom and is totally cool from about half way down.
Bottom hose is cool.
Header tank water cool.

System does not seem to be developing/holding any pressure, but maybe I need to run it longer.

Last week I noticed some of my jubilee clips were slack , so I tightened everything up and topped up the system about 1/4 L of coolant.
Click to expand...

Hi, I have a 2.5 n/a - 200tdi conversion and I also think that temp. is a little bit to high. With the old engine the needle was right in the middle and now it is 3/4 of the scale. Still ok but higher. I do not understand how the water temp. can get 94 C when the thermostate is 82 C ?
 
redfox said:
Hi, I have a 2.5 n/a - 200tdi conversion and I also think that temp. is a little bit to high. With the old engine the needle was right in the middle and now it is 3/4 of the scale. Still ok but higher. I do not understand how the water temp. can get 94 C when the thermostate is 82 C ?
Click to expand...

Mine runs high as well (2.5n/a - 200tdi) I used the 2.5n/a sender out of the old engine......I was told that the 200tdi runs a few degrees hotter and that would explain why the 2.5n/a gauge shows the temp above normal.

I've also been told that I'm talking nonsense so make yer own mind up:)
 
timtheenchanteruk said:
my oil temp runs at 80-95C if its any help.
80 round town, little to no boost, 90-95 on a motorway run, constant 60, boost around 8PSI constant
Click to expand...

Cheers. I have an oil temp gauge but it's one of the vague land rover ones. It never goes into the red and normally sits at 3/4.
 
I think it's a sticky stat. The temp creeps steadily up when you put your foot down, then just short of 100, probably 97-98 it suddenly drops a good 5 degrees or so instantly. Which I think is the stat opening.

My gauge and sender are a matched pair, and I have confirmed temp with my infrared thermometer.

What are the best stat makes please?
 
It was the thermostat. I changed back to the original one which was in the engine when I got it (an 89 degree one), after testing it last night.

Now the gauge does not rise above 80 during normal town type driving, so that will be with the thermostat closed.

During hard or motorway driving, the temp goes up to 90 and no higher.
 
sp00k said:
Pics of what? Me looking at the temperature gauge with a mildly perplexed expression?

:D
Click to expand...

That would be a start! :D

I was under the impression you had got rid of the old gauge and put in a digital one, i would assume that this would mean you had to change the sender unit and the gauge?

Is it a matter of swapping the fine threaded sender unit for another one and the gauge for one that matches the new sender?
 
flat said:
noce good easy fix then!
Click to expand...

Indeed.

IamRobbie said:
That would be a start!

I was under the impression you had got rid of the old gauge and put in a digital one, i would assume that this would mean you had to change the sender unit and the gauge?

Is it a matter of swapping the fine threaded sender unit for another one and the gauge for one that matches the new sender?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's all I did. Just make sure you take it easy putting the sender in, it's really easy to strip the housing.

I don't think fenders suit digital gauges. I prefer the action and look of analogue gauges.

After looking at loads, I went with Durite as I think their turbo, volts and rev counter are the best. The turbo gauge because it only reads to 1.5 BAR, so you can see something happening. The rev counter because they do a model that goes to 4000 revs, which is well suited to our diesel. The volts because it's not to garish!

I've not decided on the final configuration of my gauges yet, so no pics.
 
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