lazydog

lazydog

Well-Known Member
hi landy lubbers !!!
when i bought the old gal a few months back central locking didn,t work and still doesnt
was checking it out last weekend using haynes manual and am confused should i have a ecu behind a post cover or centre post and how do i
know if it should have alarm fob ect
i will be using secondhand bits if required as new seem silly prices for
montego bits !!
cheers in anticipation:confused:
 
lazydog said:
hi landy lubbers !!!
when i bought the old gal a few months back central locking didn,t work and still doesnt
was checking it out last weekend using haynes manual and am confused should i have a ecu behind a post cover or centre post and how do i
know if it should have alarm fob ect
i will be using secondhand bits if required as new seem silly prices for
montego bits !!
cheers in anticipation:confused:
Click to expand...
Checked all conections and drivers door actuator works but not any off the doors but power is there is it likely that all solinoids have gone !!!!
 
Hi folks
after checking everything on this disco K plate there is no ecu or keyfob
activater changes polarity to door solinoids but they dont work all 4 is it likley all 4 have gone or do i need ecu and key fob
 
I would have thought it highly unlikely that all the door actuators /servos
becoming u/s at the same time.Have you checked the fuse /relay ?
Start from there and work on the process of elimination.
I do believe that the drivers door is a master on some models.
Have you also checked out the wiring?
 
I have worked on this using Haynes manual when i turn the key in drivers door
there is power at all solinoids and the live reverses when i turn the key the other way
if i pull the fuse and replace it the drivers door actuator clicks but no door locks actually move and i cant believe all solinoids have gone the only thing i have not done is individually checked operation of solinoids
 
lazydog said:
I have worked on this using Haynes manual when i turn the key in drivers door
there is power at all solinoids and the live reverses when i turn the key the other way
if i pull the fuse and replace it the drivers door actuator clicks but no door locks actually move and i cant believe all solinoids have gone the only thing i have not done is individually checked operation of solinoids
Click to expand...
When you turn the key in the drivers door does the central locking activate on all four doors?Locking and unlocking using only the key.If so that would be a normal operation.However for actuation to occur using a key fob is a different kettle of fish altogether.Could be that it has been lost . Have you had a word with the person you bought it from?.
 
no doors lock via me turning the key in drivers door except drivers door
even though power is correct at all doors
i do not have the key fob it was lost before i bought it but a imobaliser has been fitted but is not remote
all i need is doors to lock as the buttons are awkard to pull up by hand!
 
lazydog said:
no doors lock via me turning the key in drivers door except drivers door
even though power is correct at all doors
i do not have the key fob it was lost before i bought it but a imobaliser has been fitted but is not remote
all i need is doors to lock as the buttons are awkard to pull up by hand!
Click to expand...
Looking back when I owned a 92 Discovery ,it didn't have a factory fit alarm, and the drivers door activated the central locking either by the key or the internal push button.To the best of my knowledge the drivers door actuator is the master controlling all the others.When you lock the drivers door can you hear the actuator operating ?If not I would say tha t the
actuator is possible defective.Tread carefully for they are not cheap and buying a second hand one is no guarantee that it will work.For that reason
some people don't bother replacing them and I do beleive the earlier models never even had the luxury of c/locking.
Hope this is of some help.
 
checking voltage on actuator everything if fine power to all 4 solinoids is fine except none actually lock only drivers door i have to lock/unlock all others by hand
all locks work ok just a pain haveing to lean accross to lock/unlock
cheers
 
Just thought I'd throw this in to your door locks pot.

My 96 Discovery rear N/S and rear door actuators dont lift the button up.

Two springs and £9.00 later from devon 4X4 and they still dont work, maily cos I can't see where to fit them even with the Haynes manual.
My solution is dont open them unless you have to!!!
 
One other thought did occur to me and that is possible earth problems on drivers door .Have you also physically checked the linkage hasn't come adrift .Just a guess.
 
everything looks connected just dosnt operate cant see as i need keyfob or ecu
the only otherthing i can think of is all 4 solinoids knackered will have to take em out and check each 1 to battery conection just cant believe all 4 shot
 
It is possable for all the solinoids to burn out at once, had this on a rangie. check power on all the other 4 doors, if it don't wokr get one for 6 quid off ebay, Well thats what I did when my remote locking failed.

Ian
 
groenendael said:
One other thought did occur to me and that is possible earth problems on drivers door .Have you also physically checked the linkage hasn't come adrift .Just a guess.
Click to expand...
My heads herts a bit now. Its lazydog thats got problems I just threw an other idea based on my spring thing problem, wondered if me had though about it as a possiblity. Got to lay down now.
Wallbanger
 
OK, the 'master' solenoid is in the drivers door. When the rod/lever is moved by the action of the key the solenoid activates the other doors. As the master solenoid reaches the end of its stroke it changes the polarity so when locking the door the solenoid moves in a different direction and of course reverses the polarity which causes the other doors to operate in reverse. The chance of all doors failling is very unlikely, try operating the drivers door solenoid manualy and see if it is moving full stroke as if not all other doors will ignore it. Incidently if testing or fitting an alarm with door closers the two wires to find from the drivers door come into the driver foot area behind the panel next to the throttle, identify with diagram if needed. If you earth one of these and momentarily touch the other to live you should get some reaction from the other doors, BE CAREFUL, as once the doors have activated they now require a reverse polarity so move the earth to the other wire and again MOMENTARILY touch a live to the other wire, you should get another (opposite) reaction from the doors.

hope this helps

Dave
 
Hi Dave 2000
have check polarity at all other slaves but they dont move when i get the motor back from the welders will try a second hand solinoid at passanger door
when i get it going the next step is get a remote blip and matching ecu thingy
and get that working!!
 
Do not worry about ecu ect, buy a decent alarm system with the facility to operate the central locking. I personaly chose a Cobra as I have had these on my cars as far back as I can rememeber and have had no trouble. On the Cobra system the central locking is operated by two wires that connect to the wires I mentioned in the previous post. As the alarm is switched on it locks the doors and then the alarms central locking system changes the polarity for you and the next use i.e. switch off the alarm will unlock the doors. Solder all connections use shrink tube and never bother with 'Scotchlocks'! I know they have there followers but they are not waterproof and will corrode and give more trouble than thier worth, do it once and do it right.

regards

Dave
 
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