Hello everyone.

I need some help! I have inherited a Series 3 2.25 petrol.

The vehicle last started in 2020. At the time it was being driven when it cut out in transit. It would not restart and was towed home. Its owner has passed away and I am trying to get it going. Prior to stopping work it looks like it had thrown a hose
and evidence of water spray (brown dirt) over engine block.

Originally I was not getting a spark, so I did the following.

1) Coil replaced. Getting +12v and -12v to Ducellier. Continuity re-established between distributer and block.

2.) I put some petrol down the throat of the carb. Still no ignition.

3.) Compression tested cylinders. Range from 4-1 is 105-125.

4.) TDC from notch on wheel and pulling spark plug 1 and feeling pressure are slightly different.

5.) Replaced Ducellier with Powerspars Lucas 45 clone. With TDC can’t get the rotar arm to point to cylinder 1.

There’s absolutely no firing of the engine. It’s turning over.

Any advice or suggestions for things I haven’t considered? Beginning to thing the engine may have a bigger problem, but accepting I need to work a bit hard on the timing.

TIA.

I don't know much about electronic ignitions but if you make/break 12v at the coil then you must get a spark of the coil is good

Basics. Why can't you get the rotor to align? Is it tdc on the power stroke?

Wildefalcon said:

Basics. Why can't you get the rotor to align? Is it tdc on the power stroke?

Click to expand...

Wondering the same.I need to go back and start over with the timing.

Basics. Excellent.

So Far So Good said:

Hello everyone.

I need some help! I have inherited a Series 3 2.25 petrol.

The vehicle last started in 2020. At the time it was being driven when it cut out in transit. It would not restart and was towed home. Its owner has passed away and I am trying to get it going. Prior to stopping work it looks like it had thrown a hose
and evidence of water spray (brown dirt) over engine block.

Originally I was not getting a spark, so I did the following.

1) Coil replaced. Getting +12v and -12v to Ducellier. Continuity re-established between distributer and block.

2.) I put some petrol down the throat of the carb. Still no ignition.

3.) Compression tested cylinders. Range from 4-1 is 105-125.

4.) TDC from notch on wheel and pulling spark plug 1 and feeling pressure are slightly different.

5.) Replaced Ducellier with Powerspars Lucas 45 clone. With TDC can’t get the rotar arm to point to cylinder 1.

There’s absolutely no firing of the engine. It’s turning over.

Any advice or suggestions for things I haven’t considered? Beginning to thing the engine may have a bigger problem, but accepting I need to work a bit hard on the timing.

TIA.

Click to expand...

Anything that was working up to the point of the break down is probably still ok, except for one thing. So don't go trying to change stuff until you know it is fubar.

Putting petrol down the throat of the carb may have been too much for it, instead try damp start or brake cleaner.
Take the end of the king lead off the distributor and put it to the block, get someone to crank it over, if you get a spark then you know the coil and points or whatever are working. If not you know they aren't. DON''t move the distributor, why would you need to? It was working until it broke down.
If you get a spark at the king lead, take a plug lead off, any one will do and do the same thing with it, if you get a spark then you know the rotor arm and distributor cap are prolly ok. All of this obvs tests the coil as well.
Take all the plugs out and let the cylinders dry out of petrol vapour, they could be flooded.
If that doesn't work, change the condenser.
Check that all the screws in the distributor are done up tight and that no insulating bits of plastic have fecked off. DON'T move the one that secures the points in place unless it is obvious that the points gap is stupidly out.


Is the securing bolt that holds the distributor in position tight? If so, again ignore it and don't loosen it or fiddle with it.

If you can check the points gap with a dwell meter.