Webley1991

Well-Known Member
I have an annoying starting issue with my Series 3 2 1/4 Diesel

I find that it is impossible to start from cold with the hand throttle set to idle speed. This is with the heater plugs set to on for a good 10 seconds.

If I move the throttle up a few notches, it will then eventually start and make a lot of white smoke.

If I move the hand throttle back to the idle position at this point, it will cut out. I have to wait a few minutes until the engine is warm for it to stay ticking over on the idle speed setting.

This was a fully rebuilt engine and injector pump. Where would be the first suggestion to look at what might be causing this?

Nothing should be too damp is it is kept inside a garage.

Thanks for any replies.
 
Should not need any throttle to start as pump is designed to give extra fuel for start.
ie once running governor reduces fuelling.
 
If I remember right, the handbook suggests starting with foot to the floor whilst cranking.
I've never needed to with mine though. Are you sure your heater plugs are working properly?

A bit of smoke on start up is reassuring. Only time to worry is when there's no smoke at all.
 
I tested each plug as shown in the manual so I don't see why they shouldn't be. Not unless they aren't getting enough current.

I will have to try starting it with the pedal to the floor.
 
No need to mess with the hand throttle...just press the foot throttle.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

Smoke can be pump timing...its very critical.

Nick.
 
If I recall correctly (it has been 16 years since I had one of these lumps, albeit a very tired one), they need to have the throttle floored to fire up. When I replaced that engine with a freshly rebuilt 2.5 N/A I was really disappointed to find out that it would take just as long to fire up as the 2.25 I had just chucked into a skip (I was flooring the throttle too). I spoke to a fellow enthusiast (internet forums hadn't been invented at the time - they followed about a year later) who told me that the injection pump on the 2.5 is totally different to the 2.25 and needs to be left at idle to fire up. 7 seconds on the heaters, no feet on the pedals and away it went. So, in a nutshell, with your 2.25, bury the throttle in the footwell and give it a go.
 
No need to mess with the hand throttle...just press the foot throttle.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

Smoke can be pump timing...its very critical.

Nick.
That's what i used to do too! There used to be an ex-school teacher of mine who's guts I hated who would be jogging in my direction every morning. I would crank the motor for a few seconds, apply the heaters until he was about 30 metres away, then I would hit the starter and engulf him in a cloud of carcinogenic soot and evil :)
 
No need to mess with the hand throttle...just press the foot throttle.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

+1 on nickjax method,helps a lot when its cold weather.
 
Someone who knows a lot more about diesel engines than I do commented that they could hear a chuffing sound in the exhaust note.

They called this "hunting". Apparently it means that the pump timing needs to be advanced a few degrees.

Could this be connected to the starting trouble?
 
Someone who knows a lot more about diesel engines than I do commented that they could hear a chuffing sound in the exhaust note.

They called this "hunting". Apparently it means that the pump timing needs to be advanced a few degrees.

Could this be connected to the starting trouble?
id be looking at tappets ie valves fully opening or passing gas,if you can hear a chuffing,though timing is likely to be retarded slightly through wear in chain and skew gear
 
.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

Nick.

tried that the other morning when it was frosty, worked a treat
 
Yes if your pump timing is retarded...it will have a sort of miss at idle with puffs of blue smoke more so when cold...so best checked engine warm...I used to just advance the pump a mm at a time....if the engine after adjustment sounds knocky or harsh you have advanced it to far.

Nick.
 
Re my cold start method....best done with full throttle during the pre start cranking...to get more neat fuel in.
 
Thanks for the replies. It runs at idle without any smoke.

It is a fully overhauled engine including a new timing chain, so there shouldn't be any wear or slack in the chain.
 
I adjusted the pump timing back a bit and it seems to run better at idle with the engine warm.

However, when it's cold it does seem to misfire a bit and make puffs of smoke as nickjaxe described.

Since even before the ajustment it seems to struggle to start at idle speed. I find that I need to put the hand throttle up a few notches to get it to start. I have to idle it fast for a couple of minutes until it warms up a bit. Is this normal?

it also throws out a lot of white smoke when it first turns over.
 

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