justlearning22 · Jul 15, 2015

hi folks im looking for a bit of advice about the engine ecu on the p38.im having problems now and again and i think the ecu is playing up.i have removed it and checked the part number which was err 7112 bosch which i think was in a 1999 -2002 not a 1997 which i have.does the part number have to be exactly the same ? the one in the car looks like someone has had it open at some point.
thanks for any help

Bladerunner919 · Jul 15, 2015

I wonder if you are getting confused with the 1999 change to Bosch on the petrol cars? I'd assume you need exactly the same part number. You'll also need a Nanocom or similar to align the BECM and ECU.

What problems are you having, exactly?

Datatek · Jul 16, 2015

There are at least 2 different EDC's for the diesel, EGR & pre EGR, the changeover was around 98/99. You must fit the correct one for your engine.

Grrrrrr · Jul 16, 2015

You sure it is the ECU? Usually it is number 4 injector, a temperature sensor or the FIP / lift-pump.

Datatek · Jul 16, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
You sure it is the ECU? Usually it is number 4 injector, a temperature sensor or the FIP / lift-pump.

Or the CPS, but if the EDC has been tampered with, who knows?

Grrrrrr · Jul 16, 2015

Datatek said:
Or the CPS, but if the EDC has been tampered with, who knows?

Should be OK if he just unplugged it and plugged it in again. It is pretty robust. The chips don't unclip. They're soldered in so unless someone really started mucking about it should be OK. They're cheap as chips off eBay which tells me no-one needs them.

Datatek · Jul 16, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
Should be OK if he just unplugged it and plugged it in again. It is pretty robust. The chips don't unclip. They're soldered in so unless someone really started mucking about it should be OK. They're cheap as chips off eBay which tells me no-one needs them.

There are plenty about that have had new chips soldered in by re-mappers.

justlearning22 · Jul 16, 2015

thanks for the replies lads.the car takes funny turns sometimes causing the engine to rev high and giving me alternator fault and gearbox fault messages.ive tested the battery and alternator and there both giving a good reading.i took the ecu out and unpluged it then re-fitted it and the problem went away.but i did notice when i re-fitted it if i bumped it the engine would cut out or rev high,which was making me think its an ecu problem possibly.

Grrrrrr · Jul 16, 2015

justlearning22 said:
thanks for the replies lads.the car takes funny turns sometimes causing the engine to rev high and giving me alternator fault and gearbox fault messages.ive tested the battery and alternator and there both giving a good reading.i took the ecu out and unpluged it then re-fitted it and the problem went away.but i did notice when i re-fitted it if i bumped it the engine would cut out or rev high,which was making me think its an ecu problem possibly.

Might be where the wiring loom comes through the cover-box rather than the ECU itself?

justlearning22 · Jul 17, 2015

cheers grrrrrr il investigate further when i get a chance

Datatek · Jul 17, 2015

justlearning22 said:
thanks for the replies lads.the car takes funny turns sometimes causing the engine to rev high and giving me alternator fault and gearbox fault messages.ive tested the battery and alternator and there both giving a good reading.i took the ecu out and unpluged it then re-fitted it and the problem went away.but i did notice when i re-fitted it if i bumped it the engine would cut out or rev high,which was making me think its an ecu problem possibly.

Put an extra wire from the case of the EDC to the battery negative.
Alternator fault only ever comes on when there is an alternator fault in my experience. May be intermittent, bad brushes, faulty diode breaking down etc. Gearbox fault is also mostly caused by low battery voltage. You should have 14.2 volts at 2K rpm at the battery.
I'd check all connections and earth points, I suspect that when removing the EDC, you moved something like for instance the positive feed from the battery to the fuse box.
Also worth checking if you have wet carpet in the drivers footwell.

Grrrrrr · Jul 17, 2015

Datatek said:
Put an extra wire from the case of the EDC to the battery negative.
Alternator fault only ever comes on when there is an alternator fault in my experience. May be intermittent, bad brushes, faulty diode breaking down etc. Gearbox fault is also mostly caused by low battery voltage. You should have 14.2 volts at 2K rpm at the battery.
I'd check all connections and earth points, I suspect that when removing the EDC, you moved something like for instance the positive feed from the battery to the fuse box.
Also worth checking if you have wet carpet in the drivers footwell.

Early ones like mine only have 13.8V.

J

Datatek · Jul 17, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
Early ones like mine only have 13.8V.

J

True, but it's not enough for a reliable battery if you only do short journeys IMO. For £25 or so, you can update with a new regulator and brushes prolonging the life of your alternator.

Grrrrrr · Jul 17, 2015

Datatek said:
True, but it's not enough for a reliable battery if you only do short journeys IMO. For £25 or so, you can update with a new regulator and brushes prolonging the life of your alternator.

Yes, Wammers sent me a link some time ago. Been meaning to get around to it but the fuel pump issues were a bit more urgent!

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