One of the joys of this kind of work is finding you need a new tool. Got some holes to countersink in a tight spot sourced an air drill from Fleabay.

Izzy has now moved into the garage and is up on axle stands. Coolant has been dumped and the rad and intercooler off.

Finding a hardspot for the axle stand took longer when the RH rear chassis rail revealed its corrosion.

This is repairable. But there are other repairs/horror shows that have settled my mind. A new galv chassis will be ordered at some point in the future.
Smaller jobs include painting some of the body brackets and intercooler mounts.

And sorting the front prop with new UJs, derust and paint...but not in that order.
Thats on the shelf ready to go back on.

A while back I posted a question about what 2-pack body adhesives folks were using. Someone suggested Optima from Ebay so I sourced one.

Yesterday I broke the seal and started bonding in various patches and repair strips.



Its quite a thick consistency and needs a bit of pressure to force it through the mixing nozzle. For a moment I thought there was a problem as one part flowed less than the other...but in the end concluded this mixing ratio was probably designed not a flaw.

Each bit was glued and then secured with rivets. Glue is as much of a seal to keep out moisture as a structural bond, and the rivets hold it in place while it sets.


Incidentally, the design of these brackets changed at some point between 1987 and 1992. Fettling and the 2-pack have resolved matters.

Overnight it set, confirming the mixing ratio was probably right.


No matter how hard I try, whenever I'm working with mastic or glue, not making a right mess always alludes me.

Just glad its out of sight.

Now cured the sections feel very rigid but the glue itself still feels like it has some flexibility.

The proof will be in the longer term and once in use. If by chance you are reading this sometime after 2027 then Izzy should be back on the road and I might have some in-service experience to share.

Now its back to general strip down and refurb. Heater feed cooland hoses are off - all serviceable - and the glow plugs have been out ready for a compression test. Which will happen as soon as I source a compression test kit.

The PAS tank and pipes were removed today. The return line was in two peices, with jubilee clips either side of the join.
This is what I found when I pulled em apart:

A male-male union of as yet unmeasured size but likely 3/8 BSP. Might come in handy one day so it will go in the hydraulic fittings "even if you never use it, it will come in handy" box.

But honestly...some people should never be left unsupervised with tools and Land Rovers.

The shuttle vavle came off and is now in bits, being cleaned up for reassembly.

The plastic switch seems to be fouling the shuttle valve itself if fully screwed down. No washer was there so head scratching time for assembly to make it work.



Took the time to confirm the threads on the master cylinder fittings. Expected 12x1and 10x1 metric fine respectively and the the vernier and thread guage agreed.


Finally, a shotblasting cabinet and parts washer were going locally so I snapped em up.

The bloke selling em was an ex-Land Rover owner...and kindly gifted the start of the next project:


1978 Series III sold to a firm in Country Antrim NI. Its got the chassis and engine number recorded, but no reg mark...but I wonder if its still out there...that project is for the future and some way off...but they all start somewhere and an original owners manual seems a good as place as any.