Ease the roof up and remove the windscreen
Take out the transmission tunnel cover and floor panels
Remove the front wings
Measure the door aperture top and bottom both sides so the new bulkhead goes back in the same position
disconnect brake and clutch hydraulics and remove master cylinders
Take off steering wheel and disconnect steering column universal joint
Take off any other bits & pieces
When you disconnect electrical connectors label them so you know what goes where
That should be enough to be going on with
Finally when you have a bare bulkhead remove outrigger bolts and chassis bolts
Take out the transmission tunnel cover and floor panels
Remove the front wings
Measure the door aperture top and bottom both sides so the new bulkhead goes back in the same position
disconnect brake and clutch hydraulics and remove master cylinders
Take off steering wheel and disconnect steering column universal joint
Take off any other bits & pieces
When you disconnect electrical connectors label them so you know what goes where
That should be enough to be going on with
Finally when you have a bare bulkhead remove outrigger bolts and chassis bolts
julianf
Well-Known Member
Thank you.
Ive realised tonight that i need to replace both outriggers (i knew i needed to do one, but not both)
Im thinking that maybe i should do them before moving the old bulkhead, so i can take reference from that, rather than have all three things unknown.
Also - does the loom stay on the instrument side of the bulkhead, and i feed wired through from the engine side? It looks too mugh of a bundle to go from cab to engine (for removal).
Ive realised tonight that i need to replace both outriggers (i knew i needed to do one, but not both)
Im thinking that maybe i should do them before moving the old bulkhead, so i can take reference from that, rather than have all three things unknown.
Also - does the loom stay on the instrument side of the bulkhead, and i feed wired through from the engine side? It looks too mugh of a bundle to go from cab to engine (for removal).
julianf
Well-Known Member
Ive been taking a load of photos of the connectors on my phone as ive been taking it apart.
There are a whole load of cut (unused) wires. I suspect the vehical used to have additional stuff (eg theres a siren thing under the bonnet, disconnected) so ill be keen on getting shot of all that too.
Im currently trying to work out what threads i should be cutting the zinc filled inserts to on the galvanised bulkhead - i was foolish enough not to make note of those, and the ones on the rusted bulkhead are mostly too far gone to ID.
There are a whole load of cut (unused) wires. I suspect the vehical used to have additional stuff (eg theres a siren thing under the bonnet, disconnected) so ill be keen on getting shot of all that too.
Im currently trying to work out what threads i should be cutting the zinc filled inserts to on the galvanised bulkhead - i was foolish enough not to make note of those, and the ones on the rusted bulkhead are mostly too far gone to ID.
julianf
Well-Known Member
The two on the top of the heater duct thing are, apparently (microcar) m5 - I was about to cut to m6.
My problem is that they are so full of zinc that I have to look them up, rather than measure. My plan was to look at the old one when I took it appart, but some of them just snap, rather than undo.
My problem is that they are so full of zinc that I have to look them up, rather than measure. My plan was to look at the old one when I took it appart, but some of them just snap, rather than undo.
You can't take enough pictures! It's a bit late for a lot of it now, but take 3 shots of the same view, just from different angles. I can't count the number of times I was looking at pictures and just couldn't see the bit I wanted, A slightly different angle would have shown it 
You'll be able to ease the main wiring harness grommet out, with the harness, pulling it in towards the seats. The block connectors on the engine side will then push through the hole.
I'm presuming you are going to have some strong help to lift it off. It's an 'awkward' weight to lift with bits attached. But, if you have someone strong to help it's a bit easier to remove bits.
The ignition barrel has ant-tamper heads on the clamp bolts.
The bolt metal was quite soft and I managed to score slots in mine to get a flat blade screwdriver in. Fortunately they weren't that tight.
I can't remember what Defender you have, Julian. Mines a 300Tdi (1996). I have more pictures if you ever get that 'if only this picture was at a slightly different angle' moment.
You'll be able to ease the main wiring harness grommet out, with the harness, pulling it in towards the seats. The block connectors on the engine side will then push through the hole.
I'm presuming you are going to have some strong help to lift it off. It's an 'awkward' weight to lift with bits attached. But, if you have someone strong to help it's a bit easier to remove bits.
The ignition barrel has ant-tamper heads on the clamp bolts.
The bolt metal was quite soft and I managed to score slots in mine to get a flat blade screwdriver in. Fortunately they weren't that tight.
I can't remember what Defender you have, Julian. Mines a 300Tdi (1996). I have more pictures if you ever get that 'if only this picture was at a slightly different angle'
moment.
julianf
Well-Known Member
Thank you - mine is a 300 as well.
As per the other thread, im just trying to get the threads re-tapped before it gets painted. I thought id just undo the bolts on the old one, and work it out that way, but evrey head seems to snap... And then microcat isnt always the most helpful!
One thing you may be able to tell me -
The upper edge of the bulkhead warped some when i got it dipped.
Here's a zoomed out photo -
and then zoomed in -
The galvanised bulkhead is from an earlier defender, and has smaller screen de-misters. So im going to cut a longer slot, which will cut out most of the warping on the very top edge, but the vertical face, leading up to it, also has a bit of an inward (ie away from the engine) dip, close to the washer jet hole.
Does this matter?
There's nothing on the inside that it will conflict with, but im not sure (yet) what goes on on the outside. Is there a seal here between the windscreen assembly, and the bulkhead?
The next flat down, ie the horizontal, with the screen locating spikes on it, is straight, its just the single thickness stuff right at the top.
As per the other thread, im just trying to get the threads re-tapped before it gets painted. I thought id just undo the bolts on the old one, and work it out that way, but evrey head seems to snap... And then microcat isnt always the most helpful!
One thing you may be able to tell me -
The upper edge of the bulkhead warped some when i got it dipped.
Here's a zoomed out photo -
and then zoomed in -
The galvanised bulkhead is from an earlier defender, and has smaller screen de-misters. So im going to cut a longer slot, which will cut out most of the warping on the very top edge, but the vertical face, leading up to it, also has a bit of an inward (ie away from the engine) dip, close to the washer jet hole.
Does this matter?
There's nothing on the inside that it will conflict with, but im not sure (yet) what goes on on the outside. Is there a seal here between the windscreen assembly, and the bulkhead?
The next flat down, ie the horizontal, with the screen locating spikes on it, is straight, its just the single thickness stuff right at the top.
The windscreen to bulkhead is a foam strip which sits on the flat with spikes sticking up so don't worry about the metal above it. Also you can get the steering column out without removing the ignition switch, with a bit of wriggling and a little bending around the hole in the bulkhead it will come out towards the steering wheel
The top thinner section, which has warped, is where the top dash panel screws down on to. There's no seal there. The only seal is the bulkhead to windscreen seal jimwyllie mentioned. (and the vent flaps of course) So, the flatter it is the better to get the dash top to sit down level and flat. You might be able to straighten it out by working your way along it with a big pair of pliers with the jaws protected, to look after the galv. I'm over cautious with galv, but I would probably be looking for a pair of narrower style vents rather than cutting it. That's just me though.
Jimwyllie, what you say about the ignition barrel makes sense to me. I've no idea why I went to the bother of taking it off, for some reason I must have thought I needed to. I mustn't have been able to get the steering column out by pulling through from the drivers side. Time has fogged that a bit
Jimwyllie, what you say about the ignition barrel makes sense to me. I've no idea why I went to the bother of taking it off, for some reason I must have thought I needed to. I mustn't have been able to get the steering column out by pulling through from the drivers side. Time has fogged that a bit
julianf
Well-Known Member
The top thinner section, which has warped, is where the top dash panel screws down on to. There's no seal there. The only seal is the bulkhead to windscreen seal jimwyllie mentioned. (and the vent flaps of course) So, the flatter it is the better to get the dash top to sit down level and flat. You might be able to straighten it out by working your way along it with a big pair of pliers with the jaws protected, to look after the galv. I'm over cautious with galv, but I would probably be looking for a pair of narrower style vents rather than cutting it. That's just me though.
Jimwyllie, what you say about the ignition barrel makes sense to me. I've no idea why I went to the bother of taking it off, for some reason I must have thought I needed to. I mustn't have been able to get the steering column out by pulling through from the drivers side. Time has fogged that a bit
I looked at the truck tonight, and there is no seal on the bit im talking about - just a load of pens and stuff that have fallen down the gap!
The warped bit is NOT where the seal is - that is perfectly straight. The warped bit is the vertical that is then bent over to horizontal again. Or to say another way, theres the first horizontal section that the screen assembly sits on (where the seal is) then the vertical, then the horizontal where the demisters mount.
Im going to trim the top section - im not so bothered here, as its going to be painted, and its not an area that rusts. The vertical bit wont conflict with the screen, so ill leave it as is.
julianf
Well-Known Member
Right, so ive trimmed the top, re-threaded the holes, and cut off my anti-warp brace (did not spring when cut through, so holes must be in the same position, i guess...)
Need to clean up a couple of bits, then off for painting next week.
Would like to have drilled door switch holes, but my existing unit is just too rusted to be able to properly see whats going on, so that may have to happen post painting. Its not going to be any bother to touch up a tiny hole then though.
Next question -
Do the wings have to come off for a bulkhead swap?
I know that, when doing the cam belt, for example, some people say remove the radiator, but i never bother, so im wondering about the wings... They look a fair bit of bother to remove.
Need to clean up a couple of bits, then off for painting next week.
Would like to have drilled door switch holes, but my existing unit is just too rusted to be able to properly see whats going on, so that may have to happen post painting. Its not going to be any bother to touch up a tiny hole then though.
Next question -
Do the wings have to come off for a bulkhead swap?
I know that, when doing the cam belt, for example, some people say remove the radiator, but i never bother, so im wondering about the wings... They look a fair bit of bother to remove.
