Kennymac · May 30, 2008

Hi folks,

having replaced all the brake components (all disks, calipers, pipes, flexi's etc.), and bleeding the brakes numerous times with a self-bleed kit, I'm gutted to find that the brakes are completely pumped (as in buggered...). The pedal hits the floor when I try the brakes with the engine running, pumping it up works, but the brakes fade away. No leaks, certainly no air in the system, have I done the seals in the master cylinder in by forcing the fluid through with the self bleed kit?

Have searched for a guide on replacing the seals but not come across anything, can someone point me in the right direction?

thanks in advance
K

david451 · May 30, 2008

Kennymac said:
Hi folks,

having replaced all the brake components (all disks, calipers, pipes, flexi's etc.), and bleeding the brakes numerous times with a self-bleed kit, I'm gutted to find that the brakes are completely pumped (as in buggered...). The pedal hits the floor when I try the brakes with the engine running, pumping it up works, but the brakes fade away. No leaks, certainly no air in the system, have I done the seals in the master cylinder in by forcing the fluid through with the self bleed kit?

Have searched for a guide on replacing the seals but not come across anything, can someone point me in the right direction?

thanks in advance
K

With a self bleed you mean pressure bled, attached to the master and heh presto open bleeders and bye bye air.

If so you would not have pressed the brake pedal and therefore if it were iffy damaged the seals. Sometimes when the master cyl is on it's way out this fooks it completly coz it dunt normally go all the way down.

Sounds like air. Bleed the fooker each of the rears one at a time then the fronts one at a time. If still same start clamping yer flexes one at a time to see if it's a particular item thats causing it. Wif all yer flexes clamped odds on then its the master.

Wif engine running.

hughesy · May 30, 2008

Kennymac said:
Hi folks,

certainly no air in the system

thanks in advance
K

Bet there is.

Kennymac · May 30, 2008

Hey,

bled it again a couple of times tonight, then did it with flexi's clamped and no air came out, so it looks like the master cyl right enough. Is it pretty straight forward to do the seals?

thanks for the help!

david451 · May 30, 2008

Kennymac said:
Hey,

bled it again a couple of times tonight, then did it with flexi's clamped and no air came out, so it looks like the master cyl right enough. Is it pretty straight forward to do the seals?

thanks for the help!

No, clamp all the flexes and check the pedal, there will be one which will take out all the rear brakes, then both the front ones one at a time. If yer pedal goes hard then it's that curcuit you look for the fault, with all them clamped the pedal will be solid.

Try the conventional way. pump the pedal hard and hold it, release the bleeder the pedal goes to the deck, close the bleeder then repeat, rear first then fronts coz I still think it's air.

Dont fit seals in a master, change the complete cylinder.

boydy1989 · May 31, 2008

When you say it pumps up but then fades, you mean as you hold your foot on the pedal it fades, or after a bit of running the pedal is further down than it was after pumping? If it was the latter than adjust the rear drums! Jack up each wheel in turn, only the back 2, and spin the wheel. Then turn the adjuster bolt (3/4 way up on the brake back plate, looks like a random bolt head) until it grabs hold of the wheel and stops is spinning. Then back it off a bit.

boydy1989 · May 31, 2008

Although having said that, does a '95 have discs on the back?

Kennymac · Jun 1, 2008

Ho,

yup, clamped the single rear flexi, then Passenger, then driver, it made no difference, the pedal still gives, so right enough, it must be the master cylinder. Is there a picture guide out there for changing the master?

Thanks for the help!
Cheers
K

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