WITCHBRO
Member
Last edited:
Mark Frewin
Member
Hi
According to the land rover series 3 parts catalogue both the cylinders on each wheel are the same for both 109 and 109 V8 and 1 Ton
so 243744 x 2 RH 243743 x 2 LH 109
or 600201 x 2 RH 600200 x 2 LH 109 V8 and 1 Ton
diagram only shows 1 cylinder l'm afraid which isn't much help
Hope this helps
According to the land rover series 3 parts catalogue both the cylinders on each wheel are the same for both 109 and 109 V8 and 1 Ton
so 243744 x 2 RH 243743 x 2 LH 109
or 600201 x 2 RH 600200 x 2 LH 109 V8 and 1 Ton
diagram only shows 1 cylinder l'm afraid which isn't much help
Hope this helps
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
That shoe looks like it’s only rubbing on the dark areas, same setup on my late 88 , look ok albeit a bit grimy in there
I use one of those bleed kits for a fiver from Halfrauds which blended ok for me
I use one of those bleed kits for a fiver from Halfrauds which blended ok for me
Looks oily and grimy. Use plenty of brake cleaner, find where the oils coming from (odds on its the hub seal). Sand the shoes. Back off adjusters to get pistons in. Seal bleed nipple threads to stop suction. Keep tube under fluid level and keep fluid level above nipple.
I've just make my brakes quite a lot better:
1 fitted a an early Defender servo - its an inch bigger.
2 fitted Borg & Beck shoes - much softer and higher friction (£30 well spent)
I've just make my brakes quite a lot better:
1 fitted a an early Defender servo - its an inch bigger.
2 fitted Borg & Beck shoes - much softer and higher friction (£30 well spent)
Palagius
Well-Known Member
I had no end of trouble with mine,as an aged novice and in no hurry i read everything on here regarding brakes to get gen'd up.
My own expierience is that it is perseverance that gets you there,
I fitted a servo dual system to mine with just the old backplates and drums reused,
after lots of trying to get mine working I found it impossible until i got all 4 wheels off the ground and systematically went through the system.i was not getting anywhere doing one corner at a time,
I systematically swapped drums and shoes around,some seemed to be happier together,some would drag badly when the little screw was fitted,i left it out on 2,i got it so all wheels were spinning by hand and stopping together,i had fitted new snail cams and adjusted.these helped no end,
I had chamfered the shoe edges all round,emeryed the drums,lots of brake cleaner,every thing copperslipped,managed to get the springs in and shoes fitted after lots of trying,
I must have had each wheel on and off 4 or 5 tmes at least until everything was seated right,i used a rubber mallet on the drums,
After a test drive the brakes were working together and i could stop okish and freewheel but very spongy,
After this i didnt bleed the system,all i did was to get the front right up as high as possible with the pedal held down and resovoir cap off,i gave the pedal a pump morning and evening and after a couple of days it was all good,
I know 100% that i would have got nowhere until i got it off the ground,
I hope you get yours sorted,
All the best and good luck
Ryn
Wet west cornwall
My own expierience is that it is perseverance that gets you there,
I fitted a servo dual system to mine with just the old backplates and drums reused,
after lots of trying to get mine working I found it impossible until i got all 4 wheels off the ground and systematically went through the system.i was not getting anywhere doing one corner at a time,
I systematically swapped drums and shoes around,some seemed to be happier together,some would drag badly when the little screw was fitted,i left it out on 2,i got it so all wheels were spinning by hand and stopping together,i had fitted new snail cams and adjusted.these helped no end,
I had chamfered the shoe edges all round,emeryed the drums,lots of brake cleaner,every thing copperslipped,managed to get the springs in and shoes fitted after lots of trying,
I must have had each wheel on and off 4 or 5 tmes at least until everything was seated right,i used a rubber mallet on the drums,
After a test drive the brakes were working together and i could stop okish and freewheel but very spongy,
After this i didnt bleed the system,all i did was to get the front right up as high as possible with the pedal held down and resovoir cap off,i gave the pedal a pump morning and evening and after a couple of days it was all good,
I know 100% that i would have got nowhere until i got it off the ground,
I hope you get yours sorted,
All the best and good luck
Ryn
Wet west cornwall
TheMegaMan
Well-Known Member
How do you do this? I've tried to achieve this by just not loosening the nipple too much, but if there's a more reliable method, I'd like to give it a try.
TheMegaMan
Well-Known Member
I was thinking that PTFE tape wouldn't survive repeated tightening and loosening very well, which is why I asked. I'll try some red grease. Thanks.
Exactly the same as on the rear brakes on an old style mini. How is the air supposed to escape? Swim down to the nipple? Stupid! Bleeding can be done in other unconventional ways. simplest is to get a mate on the pedal, pressurise the system, crack open the connection of the brake pipe to the cylinder, fluid will spurt out with air. Shut it up. Repeat until you get a firm pedal.
Messy but it works.
Or if poss swap the brake pipe for the bleed nipple so the nipple is on top. Better idea all round.
Riggwelter
Active Member
Does this help? Old Smokey's front axle is from a 109, and this was the set up when I ripped it to pieces in 2016.
