[gavbriggs]

have a look here Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A just be sure to do the four turns first then the code!! took me 4 hours to get mine going as i didn't put the four in first!!!

 

[freppesito]

thanks for the info..

connected the battery and managed to get the lock and keycode to work, but the car still wont start..

still cranks but no more, going to check the sparks tonight and se if the fuel gets to the engine.

how much sound does the fuelpump make, i hear a extremely short bzz when i turn the ignition .??

have a look here Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A just be sure to do the four turns first then the code!! took me 4 hours to get mine going as i didn't put the four in first!!!

 

[wills]

As was said above you need a security code relearn to get it started - the short buzz you hear is probably the ABS pump.

-Wills

 

[gavbriggs]

you can check the fuel pressure at the rail but i have no idea how to do this, i know there is a valve that has a sort of dust cap on it, you can also check if there is a spark by putting a spare plug in one of the leads and cranking, quicker and easier than taking a plug out!! dont crank for too long tho!! also the corresponding plug should be 'flooded' if fuel is getting through.

i once had a problem with one of the leads on the front top of the engine, plug had come off so check for anything obvious. i think it was the crank sensor but not sure, it wouldn't crank or fire.

 

[freppesito]

i will test that ,, with an extra sparkplug
and try to find a place to see if the fuel get its way to the engine.

about the reset of ecu , i don´t have an authorized dealer nearby. do you know if you can reset that with an ordinary bosch system or do you need rovacom or testbook.?

/ Fred

you can check the fuel pressure at the rail but i have no idea how to do this, i know there is a valve that has a sort of dust cap on it, you can also check if there is a spark by putting a spare plug in one of the leads and cranking, quicker and easier than taking a plug out!! dont crank for too long tho!! also the corresponding plug should be 'flooded' if fuel is getting through.

i once had a problem with one of the leads on the front top of the engine, plug had come off so check for anything obvious. i think it was the crank sensor but not sure, it wouldn't crank or fire.

 

[wills]

i will test that ,, with an extra sparkplug
and try to find a place to see if the fuel get its way to the engine.

about the reset of ecu , i don´t have an authorized dealer nearby. do you know if you can reset that with an ordinary bosch system or do you need rovacom or testbook.?

/ Fred

No, you need to have someone with either Testbook/Rovacom/Faultmate/Autologic to come out to you or you go to them to get the reset done, its quite literally a 2 minute procedure if that.

-Wills

 

[Kev1000s]

Are all the doors unlocked by entering the EKA Code?

 

[freppesito]

yes they are.. i guess that all it needs is the reprogramming . but i have 300 km to the nearest authorized dealer unfotunately.. and i have to tow the beast..

 

[gavbriggs]

yes they are.. i guess that all it needs is the reprogramming . but i have 300 km to the nearest authorized dealer unfotunately.. and i have to tow the beast..

remeber fuse 11 when towing on wheels!!!

or disconnect prop if towing on two wheels

 

[wills]

yes they are.. i guess that all it needs is the reprogramming . but i have 300 km to the nearest authorized dealer unfotunately.. and i have to tow the beast..

To be honest, towing that distance I would try and get a trailer or flatbed truck to get it there.

-Wills

 

[freppesito]

it was the code between tehe 2 units , 10 minutes work and now it´s fine again.
apart from the dent they made when pushing the car into the shop.. blast.. !!!

yes i have the EKA code.. it´s the one were you turn the key in the door in different positions?

keeping my fingers crossed and hope that it starts.