[Datatek]

Should kick in around 1750 rpm.

No load on the engine and 1750 rpm will do nothing to the turbo that will open the waste gate.

 

[Paul Coddington]

Putting in a used turbo to replace a turbo that may not be faulty does not seem like a good idea to me.

I understand what you are saying completely. My rational is that at the moment it would seem to be a turbo issue. I'm not certain, because I don't know enough. If I spend £60 on an alternative unit from a trusted supplier and the problem persists, it is then not likely to be the source of the problem. But it helps get the vehicle sorted because at the moment it's nearly useless. The guy who I've bought the replacement from is going to put it on the nanocom, if it doesn't cure it. There's no errors showing at the moment. But it's a step forward.

Should kick in around 1750 rpm.

I was the one laid under the vehicle when it was revved, but it must have been well over 2000 and the actuator didn't move.

 

[Paul Coddington]

Putting in a used turbo to replace a turbo that may not be faulty does not seem like a good idea to me.

I understand what you are saying completely. My rational is that at the moment it would seem to be a turbo issue. I'm not certain, because I don't know enough. If I spend £60 on an alternative unit from a trusted supplier and the problem persists, it is then not likely to be the source of the problem. But it helps get the vehicle sorted because at the moment it's nearly useless. The guy who I've bought the replacement from is going to put it on the nanocom, if it doesn't cure it. There's no errors showing at the moment. But it's a step forward.

Should kick in around 1750 rpm.

I was the one laid under the vehicle when it was revved, but it must have been well over 2000 and the actuator didn't move. I'm wondering if the turbo wasn't producing enough pressure or perhaps the actuator was seized at that point. I actually have no idea.

 

[Datatek]

I understand what you are saying completely. My rational is that at the moment it would seem to be a turbo issue. I'm not certain, because I don't know enough. If I spend £60 on an alternative unit from a trusted supplier and the problem persists, it is then not likely to be the source of the problem. But it helps get the vehicle sorted because at the moment it's nearly useless. The guy who I've bought the replacement from is going to put it on the nanocom, if it doesn't cure it. There's no errors showing at the moment. But it's a step forward.

I was the one laid under the vehicle when it was revved, but it must have been well over 2000 and the actuator didn't move.

It wouldn't. It takes very little throttle in neutral to produce 2000 rpm. You need load on the engine that requires plenty of throttle to get the turbo doing serious work. High load & relatively low revs is when the wastegate operates based on the pressure in the compressor output.
A dodgy waste gate stuck open will not show a fault as far as I know.

 

[Paul Coddington]

So it's still possible it's another issue other than the turbo. I'm still inclined to fit this other unit, the original is off already and if the same symptoms after replacement, then to me it would indicate that it's not a turbo problem. I then will have to start again.

 

[pwood999]

+1 on it needing pressure. Just looked at the diagram above, and it's quite obvious when you think about it. The post-turbo intake pipework is unlikely to have much pressure in neutral no matter what revs !!

Looking at eBay pics of the turbo, could you test the actuator using an airline & regulator ? Just need to know the required pressure in the intake system. According to Wammers 18psi is about the max you should see on a working system. Post-4 in this thread.

What reading does the MAP sensor give ? Assuming there is one ?

 

[Datatek]

+1 on it needing pressure. Just looked at the diagram above, and it's quite obvious when you think about it. The post-turbo intake pipework is unlikely to have much pressure in neutral no matter what revs !!

Looking at eBay pics of the turbo, could you test the actuator using an airline & regulator ? Just need to know the required pressure in the intake system. According to Wammers 18psi is about the max you should see on a working system. Post-4 in this thread.

What reading does the MAP sensor give ? Assuming there is one ?

1 bar is the maximum pressure

 

[Datatek]

A split turbo pipe or intercooler will produce the symptoms that you have.

 

[Datatek]

+1 on it needing pressure. Just looked at the diagram above, and it's quite obvious when you think about it. The post-turbo intake pipework is unlikely to have much pressure in neutral no matter what revs !!

Looking at eBay pics of the turbo, could you test the actuator using an airline & regulator ? Just need to know the required pressure in the intake system. According to Wammers 18psi is about the max you should see on a working system. Post-4 in this thread.

What reading does the MAP sensor give ? Assuming there is one ?

They all have a MAP sensor.

 

[Grrrrrr]

I don't think Nanocom has anything for the turbo other than the MAP value and maybe MAF for the later engine.

 

[Paul Coddington]

I don't think Nanocom has anything for the turbo other than the MAP value and maybe MAF for the later engine.

Makes sense, I'm getting no error messages or warning lights

 

[Paul Coddington]

A split turbo pipe or intercooler will produce the symptoms that you have.

I can't see any splits on any of them.

 

[Rubberknees]

I can't see any splits on any of them.

Squeeze the pipes. I had a split you couldn't see but when I squeezed the pipe opened up

 

[brianp38dse]

The pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is known to delaminate inside restricting the pipe looks ok from out side but pipe feels squidgy mine did it fine when not driving but under load it made a big bubble inside that rather restricted the flow.

 

[Paul Coddington]

Squeeze the pipes. I had a split you couldn't see but when I squeezed the pipe opened up

Thanks, I'll do that

 

[Paul Coddington]

+1 on it needing pressure. Just looked at the diagram above, and it's quite obvious when you think about it. The post-turbo intake pipework is unlikely to have much pressure in neutral no matter what revs !!

Looking at eBay pics of the turbo, could you test the actuator using an airline & regulator ? Just need to know the required pressure in the intake system. According to Wammers 18psi is about the max you should see on a working system. Post-4 in this thread.

What reading does the MAP sensor give ? Assuming there is one ?

I could attach to a small air compressor, I have, that'll generate the required pressure. I'll let you know.

 

[Paul Coddington]

I tried looking at internally with a endoscope, when it was still on the vehicle, could see naff all because of reflection of the lights. Not looked at it since it's been off. I'll remedy that.

 

[pwood999]

Nanocom shows the boost pressure (I assume MAP), in the EDC-Inputs-General page:

 

[Paul Coddington]

Nanocom shows the boost pressure (I assume MAP), in the EDC-Inputs-General page:

View attachment 347700

Worth knowing, if the current plan goes pear shaped. Thanks