Meanwhile found this, but it all involves removing and stripping the block. 



Just weld a nut onto the sump plug, it'll come out after thatI am aware of this. The auto box sump also had a plug I could not undo as it was rounded off. In that case it was easier, I emptied what I could out of the filler plug then very carefully took the sump off. amazingly I didn't spill a drop!
TBH I do not think there would be very much residual as when I pump the sump out I really do get most of it out.
But yes, I could do this.
There are lots of threads on this.
Until now I thought that those TD5s with this problem had been sorted out and I wasn't at much risk of it.
But this posted thread has seriously changed my mind.
Typically I could take the sump off and find someone else has already replaced it, in its past life.
But I don't think I dare risk it any longer.
Sorry, only laughed at that cos the one thing I don't have over here is any of my welding gear.Just weld a nut onto the sump plug, it'll come out after that![]()
That's a good tip ladJust replaced my bolt @ 168k on 2004 manual. Still in place.
Quick tip if anyone has trouble with keeping the sump gasket in place, as it's supposed to be instaled dry, I used thin cable ties through the holes to keep it in place then cut each in turn to insert the bolts.
Griff
As I have now decided to go ahead and do this, in my research on it, I found a note from LR modfying the the torque setting on 4 of the bolts to 28 ft lbs.Also, it might be worth re-checking sump bolt tourqe after a couple of days. Did mine today before putting under tray back on and was surprised how much they tightened up, despite already having done them up to 25nm as per manual.
Griff
It is also said that the oil pressure relief valve is prone to coming loose so I'll be giving that a seeing to as well.Good info. These are the 4 bolts in the sump at the rear (Not the ones into the Bell housing)
Thanks