Sorry I meant the tyres max pressure is 80, we didn't fill it to 80 😊 just put enough in to get it to the garage.

Update on leak: PO definitely didn't do the front output seal just before we bought it. Also the flange is knackered (and has been for long time), one side has a deep groove, the other side has more grooves (see pic) so they have ordered parts.
There was also a leak from the drum looking part and they said that was ruined from the leak so another has been ordered. The drum thing is behind the transfer box is there a proper name for that part?
 

Attachments

  • 20250507_104117.jpg
    20250507_104117.jpg
    142.5 KB · Views: 16
Doubt you need a new drum, maybe the equivalent flange and seal as per the front one.
It's advisable to replace the shoes but I don't bother to no ill effect. Probably cheap enough and since you are paying for them to be taken out might aswell fit new one I guess.
I would just clean up the shoes and grease up the adjusters .
 
That flange is deffo completely knackered, as will be the seal.
Cheap/easy enough to replace.

The 'drum' is the hand brake, a new one will NOT be neccesary, just a clean up and all put back together (as @Anaconda said).
New shoes maybe required (maybe) but remember its only a handbrake that stops your car rolling away. To be honest I always leave mine in gear, the handbrake gets used very rarely.


 
Gotta keep positive 🤣 was actually down to 13 psi and the tyre should be 80
How very American of you using psi! However 80psi sounds very high, are you sure that is correct? At the risk of starting a large debate on tyre pressures I tend to run mine at about 32-34psi (2.2 bar in correct measurements ;)), So 80 sounds very high unless you are very heavily loaded all the time.

If you are unsure for your vehicle the old fashioned chalk test. Rub a heavy line of chalk across the tyre and go for a short test drive. If just the centre of the line is worn away the tyre is over inflated, if just the edges are worn away the tyre is under inflated.
 
We will 100% be doing this, great idea! And shouldn't have a problem opening it with the latch through the grill now. We were trying the wrong latch 🤦‍♀️as didn't know how the release cable worked until the video above, didn't realise that it just pulled a little latch too!
Thankyou all again
Better late than never but see the routing I have for my bonnet release cable through the grill, again very crude, but has been loke if for years and not broken:

IMG_2871.jpeg


IMG_2872.jpeg
 
Last edited:
So, what are your plans for your Defender in terms of using it?
(Apart from fixing it)
I presume it's not your only vehicle.
We have a car too yeah. Landy is going to be more for our adventures / camping trips, we want to make draws in the back and a dog bed above. Roof rack. Awning. Going to paint the doors to match the body. Get a spare wheel carrier put on. Just enjoy it and keep learning 😊 we recently found Suffolk landrover club too who have off road tracks which looks good!
 
Going to paint the doors to match the body.
As you have a nice flat paint colour rather than modern metallic, you can easily paint the doors yourself with some coach enamel in the correct colour and some small gloss rollers. Give everything a good clean, sand down, coat of etch primer (again with a gloss roller), and then top coat with the gloss roller. I have done both of my land rovers using this method and it is very in keeping with the rest of the body work if you are not filling all the dents and trying to achieve a perfect better than factory finish.
 
As you have a nice flat paint colour rather than modern metallic, you can easily paint the doors yourself with some coach enamel in the correct colour and some small gloss rollers. Give everything a good clean, sand down, coat of etch primer (again with a gloss roller), and then top coat with the gloss roller. I have done both of my land rovers using this method and it is very in keeping with the rest of the body work if you are not filling all the dents and trying to achieve a perfect better than factory finish.
We are definitely painting ourselves we were going to use TA paints landrover paint as it can be rollered on too? Not bothered about perfect finish but we may replace the badly dented 2 panels (one front wing, 1 back wing)
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20250508_141054_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20250508_141054_Chrome.jpg
    482.2 KB · Views: 7
We are definitely painting ourselves we were going to use TA paints landrover paint as it can be rollered on too? Not bothered about perfect finish but we may replace the badly dented 2 panels (one front wing, 1 back wing)
I have used paintman (LINK) and Paddocks (LINK) for paint, but mine is just standard Masai red so is not a difficult colour to get hold of an match.

If you are talking about the dents of the drivers wing I personally wouldn't bother. They are not that bad and these days even second hand wings are very expensive. Also the back wing I assume you are referring to the tub side? if that is the case that is a very difficult panel to replace, you cannot just unbolt and bolt back on without replacing the whole tub, so again unless it is really awful would just straighten as best as you can and leave it. Land rovers are one of the few vehicles where a couple of dents are in keeping with the "design" and just add "character". In the rebuilds of my 110, and my series I have never bothered doing anything with the dents, I just clean and repaint over them. As soon as you fix them on one panel you will just start to notice them on the other panels!
 
Plus if it already has a couple of dents in it you will be less precious about taking offroad, rubbing it into the hedge to get past the lorry, etc, and generally using it to throw things in and on and use and enjoy.
 

Similar threads