[phoebecp]

I'm looking to replace one of the hoses in my '03 Freelander TD4 and was wondering if anyone would know/or be able to source a part number or just a name for it so I can find a suitable replacement.
I believe its for coolant, it goes from the radiator into the engine block (at the front RHS/centre of the engine bay as you look over it), I've exhausted google trying to find it and come up with nothing, but the main one that comes up is the one going into the inlet.
Ta,
Phoebe

 

[guineafowl21]

This one?

Available from here, if so: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/water-housing-head-elbow-freelander-lr006797-peq100870l-p-8085.html

Perhaps give them a ring to make sure.

 

[phoebecp]

that looks like it except I don't think mine splits off into two?

 

[Alibro]

Have you looked through all the radiator hoses in rimmers? They usually have most things in stock.

 

[Skinny Mike]

Have you looked through all the radiator hoses in rimmers? They usually have most things in stock.

This link should take you to the correct page.http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009755

Mike

 

[Arctic2]

Manual or Auto TD4 hoses are different, that cropped picture above looks familiar. you may not realise that it splits off into a Y shape as it would be hidden under the manifold, do you have a leak ?

 

[phoebecp]

Mine's a manual, and I've just looked back at it and it does split into two. There's no leak but I suspect that the existing hose is quite corroded so I want to replace it before it causes an issue

 

[Arctic2]

Mine's a manual, and I've just looked back at it and it does split into two. There's no leak but I suspect that the existing hose is quite corroded so I want to replace it before it causes an issue

..

Then the one you need is this one below. and the left one in the photo below for a TD4 the right one is for the R40, please be warned though that removal of the said hose can sometime fracture the Y unit as well as they become brittle over time, and it here that they leak from.
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-PCH118132

 

[phoebecp]

Have ordered a replacement from Rimmer Bros, the one I was looking for was PCH118132, thanks for everyone's help

 

[FirebladeGuy]

Manual or Auto TD4 hoses are different, that cropped picture above looks familiar. you may not realise that it splits off into a Y shape as it would be hidden under the manifold, do you have a leak ?

Hi mate, just reading through this old thread, could i ask a question, you seem to know about this part! So,

i have a small leak, think it's coming from here, how easy is it to change that part? is it just a bolt off bolt on or is there some major dismantling required to get to it?

Thanks

J

 

[Arctic2]

Hi mate, just reading through this old thread, could i ask a question, you seem to know about this part! So,

i have a small leak, think it's coming from here, how easy is it to change that part? is it just a bolt off bolt on or is there some major dismantling required to get to it?

Thanks

J

Hi J.
It's easier to get to the part by taking the manifold off, that should take no longer than 30 minutes, from there you wil be able to unbolt the Y connector.

They get brittle over time and can leak it's very rare it's the hose, but of cause they too can leak.

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sometimes it's only the seal but personally i would change the whole unit as one.

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As you can see from this photo it's a lot easier with the manifold removed, remember you will need to drain the coolant first.

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[FirebladeGuy]

Hi J.
It's easier to get to the part by taking the manifold off, that should take no longer than 30 minutes, from there you wil be able to unbolt the Y connector.

They get brittle over time and can leak it's very rare it's the hose, but of cause they too can leak.

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sometimes it's only the seal but personally i would change the whole unit as one.

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As you can see from this photo it's a lot easier with the manifold removed, remember you will need to drain the coolant first.

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Amazing cheers. Off to study Haynes manual now. Will I need any other replacement gaskets?

Cheers

 

[Arctic2]

Amazing cheers. Off to study Haynes manual now. Will I need any other replacement gaskets?

Cheers

No the gaskets on the manifold are reusable, you could clean it out while you have it off, but remove the MAP sensor from the side before doing so and the gaskets, wipe the MAP sensor clean with a rag that as some brake cleaner on the rag, do not poke anything into the hole of the MAP sensor, you may find also the the EGR could do with a clean, that can be done with some swafega and an old tooth brush, then washed or spayed out again with carb or brake cleaner.

You will need a 10mm socket for the 8 bolts at the top of the manifold they are captive so do not come right out, then a 11mm socket for the lower nuts x 4 and one bolt the manifold can be taken off with the EGR attached.

All the above is after you have taken off the air ducting.

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remember to put this little bracket back when refitting the manifold.

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4x nuts and one bolt 11mm

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Undo the special clamp round the EGR and exhaust pipe.

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[FirebladeGuy]

Mate that is amazing, thanks for taking the time to do that, much appreciated! Literally now ordering the parts as we speak!

... so that water leak is on a cheap Commercial that I bought a few weeks back needing a driveshaft (came out in pieces with very little left of the inner joint after a predictably irritating battle with strut / hub bolts - )

I have another question if that's ok ...

I also have a 51 plate TD4 3 door. It's going for its MOT today and I think it might fail on a small diesel leak and a CV Boot (is that a fail?)

It's not a bad fuel leak, its been doing it for the last few months, like maybe 4 or 5 drops overnight that have dripped off the subframe. I replaced one top fuel hose from the under bonnet filter last year which was ****ing like a severed artery but I can't tell where this is coming from. Like I say it's nothing bad but I'm wondering if there are any known fuel leaks on these TD4's that have those symptoms?

It's start like brand new engine every time and runs faultlessly. I was resigned to waiting until something got bad enough to work out wtf it was ... not a great strategy ... but I think mr MOT is probably going to flag it as a fail? Smells diesely!

Cheers again

John

 

[Nodge68]

Mate that is amazing, thanks for taking the time to do that, much appreciated! Literally now ordering the parts as we speak!

... so that water leak is on a cheap Commercial that I bought a few weeks back needing a driveshaft (came out in pieces with very little left of the inner joint after a predictably irritating battle with strut / hub bolts - )

I have another question if that's ok ...

I also have a 51 plate TD4 3 door. It's going for its MOT today and I think it might fail on a small diesel leak and a CV Boot (is that a fail?)

It's not a bad fuel leak, its been doing it for the last few months, like maybe 4 or 5 drops overnight that have dripped off the subframe. I replaced one top fuel hose from the under bonnet filter last year which was ****ing like a severed artery but I can't tell where this is coming from. Like I say it's nothing bad but I'm wondering if there are any known fuel leaks on these TD4's that have those symptoms?

It's start like brand new engine every time and runs faultlessly. I was resigned to waiting until something got bad enough to work out wtf it was ... not a great strategy ... but I think mr MOT is probably going to flag it as a fail? Smells diesely!

Cheers again

John

If the diesel leak is from the alternator area, then it's most likely to be the HP fuel pump. This will fail the MOT if the examiner thinks it's an issue.
A leaking CV gaiter is also an MOT fail.

 

[FirebladeGuy]

If the diesel leak is from the alternator area, then it's most likely to be the HP fuel pump. This will fail the MOT if the examiner thinks it's an issue.
A leaking CV gaiter is also an MOT fail.

That's my weekend sorted then! cheers fellas! Fingers crossed ... and off we go ...

 

[FirebladeGuy]

Well, the original 3 door passed its MOT! Result, will shortly be selling it I think. In the meantime, Rimmers are posting me those parts to tackle the water leak on the commerical along with 2 new rear brake drums / shoes etc. No sealing gasket in stock for that Y piece so will bea waiting 2 or 3 days but there's a chance I can tackle it this weekend. Aside from that I have to refit the propshaft (will do the bearings before I do that and 4 new tyres) and it should be pretty much A1.

Funny, I've had 180mph superbikes, high spec Mercs, mid engine 2 seaters, even a lotus & kitcar over the years ... but of all of those things, the £300 barn find Freelander I bought last year is probably my favourite of all. Even took it to Scotland and back last year (from Brighton area) ... it was a joy, seriously cool car. I really wish I could keep both but I can't really justify it.

If anyone's interested I'll be selling a 51 plate in a week, 3 door in silver, with leather (no prop) 135 k on it and will have a new driveshaft. Does have a tiny Diesel leak. This is the car from last year ...

Thanks again for your help Arctic / Nodge, very much appreciated. Watched a YouTube video on manifold removal earlier, looks pretty straight forward. This one will live again too.

 

[Arctic2]

The Y part (LR006797) should come with the gasket attached to it, where ever you purchase it from.

LR006797 Water Connector

LR006797G LR Water

www.advancedfactors.co.uk

 

[FirebladeGuy]

The Y part (LR006797) should come with the gasket attached to it, where ever you purchase it from.

LR006797 Water Connector

LR006797G LR Water

www.advancedfactors.co.uk

Yeah it does ... it looks different though. I mean I haven't had a chance to take it all apart yet but why does that replacement water connector (I have just got the same part) have a shamfer and no lip? I mean, i'm looking at it thinking is a jubilee clip really going to hold the hose on that little sliver of tube and .. what ... push the hose up over the shamfer too until it butts up to the next bit. Seems a bit odd to me ... like not up to the job. Am i worrying about nothing here?

 

[Arctic2]

Yeah it does ... it looks different though. I mean I haven't had a chance to take it all apart yet but why does that replacement water connector (I have just got the same part) have a shamfer and no lip? I mean, i'm looking at it thinking is a jubilee clip really going to hold the hose on that little sliver of tube and .. what ... push the hose up over the shamfer too until it butts up to the next bit. Seems a bit odd to me ... like not up to the job. Am i worrying about nothing here?

If you look close the stainless steel band is on the connection to the Y which has a spring clip and believe me they are hard to get apart while in the car.

You will notice in this photo the large hose as had the stainless steel band removed so the inline stat could be fitted.

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