Took it for a test drive again after changing the aux belt and engine died 4 times. I had previously deleted fault codes and the same ones showed up: engine code saying "fuel flow value out of range" and gearbox fault code "invalid engine rpm data". My husband thought the latter could also indicate a crank sensor issue?
However it seems that the codes too are pointing to the FIP. If I understand it correctly, I have on my hands a diesel runaway engine, except the ECU shuts off the engine to prevent it from receiving too much diesel from the faulty FIP and running away? Last time it shut off the rpm quickly went to 4000.
 
Took it for a test drive again after changing the aux belt and engine died 4 times. I had previously deleted fault codes and the same ones showed up: engine code saying "fuel flow value out of range" and gearbox fault code "invalid engine rpm data". My husband thought the latter could also indicate a crank sensor issue?
However it seems that the codes too are pointing to the FIP. If I understand it correctly, I have on my hands a diesel runaway engine, except the ECU shuts off the engine to prevent it from receiving too much diesel from the faulty FIP and running away? Last time it shut off the rpm quickly went to 4000.
Fuel flow out of range seems to be common, I have it on one of mine it mak3es no difference. Crank sensor can be checked with Nanocom. All this speculation is pointless until the FIP timing is sorted, it's a surprise it even runs.
 
Today we did the static timing as described by datatek, first tapping the FIP 5mm away from the engine and 1mm back, after driving the engine to 95 degrees this gave a jump to 60% modulation at idle, from the old 4%. Then tapping it again towards the engine 1mm or so resulted in no change and another mm gave 51-53% modulation at idle. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes and driving it warm again, at idle Nanocom showed 53-57%. The car drives fine right now but tomorrow I will take it for a longer drive (30km) and if nothing happens I would say that is that. Should I leave the modulation as is or fine tune it a bit more?
 
Today we did the static timing as described by datatek, first tapping the FIP 5mm away from the engine and 1mm back, after driving the engine to 95 degrees this gave a jump to 60% modulation at idle, from the old 4%. Then tapping it again towards the engine 1mm or so resulted in no change and another mm gave 51-53% modulation at idle. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes and driving it warm again, at idle Nanocom showed 53-57%. The car drives fine right now but tomorrow I will take it for a longer drive (30km) and if nothing happens I would say that is that. Should I leave the modulation as is or fine tune it a bit more?
51/53% is just fine, as near perfect as you will get.
 

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