Given the price, it might be worth an email to Wabco ?

Also open it up & look for bad joints or water ingress, after all it is located below the heater inlet air vents that are known leak points.
 
pwood999 said:
Given the price, it might be worth an email to Wabco ?

Also open it up & look for bad joints or water ingress, after all it is located below the heater inlet air vents that are known leak points.
Click to expand...

I doubt there's anyone left who understands it but you can try.

I wish @martyuk was around. He's found various faults with the WABCO ECUs over the years but also with what the Nanocom reports on it.
 
Digging through the docs again, the rough road volts is supposed to be continually changing under normal operation, so that's ruled out as a problem!!
 
I'm starting to think there is no problem as such.
I think I have a bad sensor/connection, given the wheel bearings appear to be OK
I think the fact nanocom reports 'rough road status' as active, is untrue/programmatic mistake
 
kermit_rr said:
I'm starting to think there is no problem as such.
I think I have a bad sensor/connection, given the wheel bearings appear to be OK
I think the fact nanocom reports 'rough road status' as active, is untrue/programmatic mistake
Click to expand...
Have you asked BBS?there may be something on the forum.
 
ordered a used wabco D, alleged tested working OK no faults
not receiving signal from one of the wheels and as a result giving the 'short to another sensor' error
FFS didn't need this argument
 
pwood999 said:
Check the front hub ball joints & sensor gaps before you buy new sensors. If gap is too large, or ball joints are loose it can cause sensor problems.
Click to expand...
Hi, which ball joints are you referring too? And how would they impact the sensors?

Also, how can you check/gap the sensors? Thanks.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Did you get any further with this?
Click to expand...
Not really, not doing anything now until i get this replacement modulator fitted.
I've got a new sensor to put in the hub, but I'm not convinced that will resolve the problem, though i suppose it could simply be dirty, as it only produces an error <1mph with foot on the brake
 
kermit_rr said:
Not really, not doing anything now until i get this replacement modulator fitted.
I've got a new sensor to put in the hub, but I'm not convinced that will resolve the problem, though i suppose it could simply be dirty, as it only produces an error <1mph with foot on the brake
Click to expand...
What's the condition of the reluctor ring like? The X type had a problem due to to the ring being so rusty and closing the gaps between the teeth.;)
 
tomcat59alan said:
What's the condition of the reluctor ring like? The X type had a problem due to to the ring being so rusty and closing the gaps between the teeth.;)
Click to expand...
No clue how you get to see it :eek: without taking the sensor out, which i can't do without destroying it, which i don't want to do
 
Grrrrrr said:
They are hall-effect so as each tooth passes uou get a pulse which shows on an oscilloscope as a square wave. However, wire is wire. Stick an old style bulb with a piece of wire to attach it +V and the other end through the wire and to ground and it should light ip inless there is a break. Connector sounds like a good place to stick a wire in.
Click to expand...
the ABS sensors are NOT Hall Effect, they are a simple wire coil wound round a soft iron core, I can post a photo if you want evidence.
 
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