Wolf rims are 6.5J and the LWB rims are 5.5J, that extra inch makes the 235/85 sit much better. I've recently changed to Wolfs to get the tubeless 6.5J after running 235s on the 5.5J rims. Wolfs are much better - tyre sits better and puts more tread down as its not pinched in. I also drilled the hubs and put in 5mm over studs (M16), they were only 0.97p each off e-bay and I prefer the S3 pressed in stud, its a lot stronger. Studs now one thread clear of nuts for a total cost of under £20.
 
rob1miles said:
Wolf rims are 6.5J and the LWB rims are 5.5J, that extra inch makes the 235/85 sit much better. I've recently changed to Wolfs to get the tubeless 6.5J after running 235s on the 5.5J rims. Wolfs are much better - tyre sits better and puts more tread down as its not pinched in. I also drilled the hubs and put in 5mm over studs (M16), they were only 0.97p each off e-bay and I prefer the S3 pressed in stud, its a lot stronger. Studs now one thread clear of nuts for a total cost of under £20.
Click to expand...

Tell me more. I was looking at Wolf (longer) studs today at silly money each ....
 
miktdish said:
Tell me more. I was looking at Wolf (longer) studs today at silly money each ....
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Buy these: they are M16 x 45 whereas the std are M16 x 38-40. The Wolf wheel is 2mm thicker but the stud faces are bumped up 2mm so you need 5mm more to be sure.
I'll link to my thread on drilling the BSF out, if you have S3 M16 already you can press them out in situe with a large size ball joint splitter.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45mm-x-1...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/wheel-studs.260211/
 
The Wolf wheel in the pic in the thread is an aftermarket, I now have a set of OEM Wolfs and pulled up there is one more thread clear. You may have to grind a bit out the puller to clear the stud head. If you are drilling the BSF studs after you drill the 20mm recess and strakes off then double nut the stud and wind it out, takes a hell of a lot of force! Then the step drill will centre the 16mm. I just bought blacksmiths drill from tool station, a few £ each. You may also want to get a 17mm to drill the drum if you are changeing out BSF
 
I thought that tubeless rims were safer as the tyre is less likely to become displaced from the rim in the event of a puncture, due to the bead retention ridge.
You can perform temporary repairs on tubeless tyres without removing them from the rim.
Not all Wolf rims are tubeless, the part number should confirm if they are or are not, although the bead retention ridge should be obvious.
The army retro-fitted Wolf rims and tubeless tyres to their older Land Rover fleet, they must not have seen any benefit in tubed tyres.
 
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There is a distinct lack of tubed tyres these days. However you can in practice run a tube in any tyre. But it is worth checking the inside of the tyre. Many modern tyres have ridges and rough edges on the inside, which can prematurely wear a tube.

Tubes have other benefits, they allow you to air down off road a lot more. You can safely run 12psi or slightly lower without the risk of unseating the tyre and letting the air out on non-beadlock rims. The downside to tubes is, if you get a puncture, they go flat very quickly, as it will normally 'pop' the tube and it will deflate inside the tyre. A tubeless tyre may well stay inflated, even with a nail in it (assuming you don't pull the nail out and leave a hole). Or at the very least, leave it with a slow puncture that takes days to go flat.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Wolf rims aren’t stock for a Series. Not that it bothers me. Just saying.

Standard Series rims are not technically wide enough for a 235/75R16 if you check the recommended rim widths.
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Now look what you've made me do with your 'not original' comment :p
If I didn't want it to look original I wouldn't have spent a shed load on glass lights :oops:
20200807_133406.jpg

Suppose I'll have to change my tyre size anorl now ;)
 
marjon said:
See another job done because of quarantine :D

J
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Now I'm looking for tyres :oops: That's a bloody minefield anorl. Some say 750 but not 235's although they're a modern equivalent. I've read 235's are fine or do I go with 225/75's or stick close to original with 205/80's but they look a bit small.....

I'm off to play with gravel and mess with the drive cos my head hurts :(
 
Marmaduke said:
Now I'm looking for tyres :oops: That's a bloody minefield anorl. Some say 750 but not 235's although they're a modern equivalent. I've read 235's are fine or do I go with 225/75's or stick close to original with 205/80's but they look a bit small.....

I'm off to play with gravel and mess with the drive cos my head hurts :(
Click to expand...
A 235 is not a modern equivalent to a 7.50 x 16. It is misleading that people say it is. A 235 is significantly wider and requires a minimum of a 6" wide rim according to all/most tyre makers. Therefore should not be fitted to a 5.5" wide Series rim.

A 235 is a nice size however and standard fitment on many Defenders.

As for what size should you go for. I personally think a Series looks better on a 7.50 or 235 tyre in terms of height. And off road such a size is generally better. And on road will give slightly better terminal speed in each gear (i.e. slightly low rpm for the same speed).

Arguably a taller tyre will impact acceleration a bit however.

So I'd say it really comes down to your intended use and what sort of 'look' you are after.

Sadly there are few 7.50 x 16's too choose from these days. And a great many are remoulds and/or very off road focused. So you may have to accept a substitute, being a different size.
 
Those rims may look nice but they are worth diddly squat. For a reason, you have very little tyre choice and what you have is not much good. I ran 235/85s (BFG AT) on those rims and yes I did get tube wear punctures and yes the tyres were forced too narrow. So I bought a set of OEM Wolfs and put new modern high performance 235 AT tyres on. Stuck the 5.5J rims complete with BFG ATs on e-bay a couple of weeks ago and was pleased to get £40 the lot. The OEM Wolfs (in very good nick) cost me £140 without tyres so the market knows the answer. Part of my decision to fit decent modern rims and tyres was swayed by mine being MOT exempt. Now its my respnsiblity I don't want to cut corners by running old tubeless rims and old style tyres.
 
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