Dopey
Well-Known Member
I think this may be better, considering how easy the Landy ones brake
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Of-C...d=370624116357&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-Of-C...d=370624116357&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
How about one off these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Car-Massag...d=330572233538&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Car-Massag...d=330572233538&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Andy, @holidaychicken , would be more than happy to help you
I know he and Alan are seeing other people at the moment tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Now Andy knows you are two timing him with me.Andy, @holidaychicken , would be more than happy to help you
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
You fudging what ???
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Sorry mate, had to be done.You fudging what ???
martyuk
Well-Known Member
I've installed the carbon fibre style pads in my RR as the factory ones weren't getting hot enough for my liking, and I figured I could uprate the thermostat to one of my 50 degree ones, or try a set of aftermarket pads out.
Went for the dual temp ones, so it has a switch and a relay to effectively switch them between series and parallel wiring. Trimmed and tidied the wiring loom to fit nicer under the seat, and then also fitted the selector switch on the side of the seat with the other switches.
They get nice and toasty, and are a lot more flexible than the original LR heater pads, so don't think they are likely to fail any time soon.
Also the way they are wired internally, means when you cut a small hole for the seat hog rings to go through, it obviously cuts that piece of the element, but they are done in strips horizontally across the seat - so you only lose a small piece of it - not the whole thing like the RR ones if (when) they break!
Went for the dual temp ones, so it has a switch and a relay to effectively switch them between series and parallel wiring. Trimmed and tidied the wiring loom to fit nicer under the seat, and then also fitted the selector switch on the side of the seat with the other switches.
They get nice and toasty, and are a lot more flexible than the original LR heater pads, so don't think they are likely to fail any time soon.
Also the way they are wired internally, means when you cut a small hole for the seat hog rings to go through, it obviously cuts that piece of the element, but they are done in strips horizontally across the seat - so you only lose a small piece of it - not the whole thing like the RR ones if (when) they break!
holidaychicken
Well-Known Member
Hang on, my bad, it’s ok , girls don’t countSorry mate, had to be done.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
I was very impressed with your seat. Got a link for the parts?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
martyuk
Well-Known Member
They are pretty much the same as what Dopey posted up..
This was the actual listing I purchased, though it appears the seller doesn't have any more left.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152557221504
The set that Dopey linked to also include the 2 temp setting switches - but that listing is for one seat only. It seems if you are happy to order from China and wait the few weeks, you can still get sets for 2 seats for about the same price as they charge for a single seat in the UK!!
I modified the wiring loom that came with it. I used the connectors from the P38 seat pads as a main power feed to the switch/relay, and then trimmed the excess out of the loom to tidy it up a bit. I also ditched the inline fuse, since the feed for the P38 heated seats from the BECM is fused there. That way the HEVAC/BECM still have the overall control of the system.
A few pictures from my install of them:
Removed the seat cover to get to the seat pad - as you can see, this is the original one I repaired about 5 years ago!
I peeled off the old pad, to give a fresh/clean foam base, and then lined up the replacement to go on.
And stuck it down, this shows where I've cut out the sections for the hog rings to go in to secure the seat cover. I taped up the edges of these hold with some thin strips of duct tape.
The seat back go the same treatment - though luckily you don't have to peel the whole cover off!
I installed the temperature selection switch on the panel with the other seat controls. I wanted it to look as 'factory' as possible (hence why I also wired it into the vehicle wiring so was still controlled in the normal way). I did try to find a listing with a square switch, but no such luck unfortunately!
This is my 'modified' wiring loom. The black connector bottom/left is the relay socket, the 3x white connectors on the RHS are the connections to both seat pads in the base/back, and the other one is to the temp switch. The one more centre/right is the one I pinched from the P38 seat element to act as the power feed. As you can see, I cut out the inline fuse and the ground ring terminal - as this does both in the plug, and the feed is fused at the BECM.
I also modified the vehicle wiring a bit - I popped the pins out of the connectors and wired it so that there was just the bigger 3 way connector, with the +ve/-ve wires in it - rather than the 2 connectors that the P388 heater pads use (as they are wired in series by default, and we just want 12V to the circuitry for the aftermarket pads/switch/relay)
Another view of the wiring loom
Now with everything all in place on the bottom of the seat. the relay can just be seen above the motor on the top/right - I used one of the outstation bolts to secure it with the mounting tab that was on the relay housing. You can see both back/base pads plugged in , and the single connector which now connects to the vehicle wiring. The temp switch connector can be seen next to the top/left motor, which plugs in once the side panel is replaced.
Sorry this has turned into a long post, but I hope it helps anyone else who goes down the aftermarket heater pad route.
If you didn't want to do to these lengths, then you could just replace the heater pads, swap the P38 pad connections onto the replacement pads, and then wire them in as the factory ones were. You could also add a thermostat to it if you wished, and then just not use any of the included wiring.
Marty
This was the actual listing I purchased, though it appears the seller doesn't have any more left.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152557221504
The set that Dopey linked to also include the 2 temp setting switches - but that listing is for one seat only. It seems if you are happy to order from China and wait the few weeks, you can still get sets for 2 seats for about the same price as they charge for a single seat in the UK!!
I modified the wiring loom that came with it. I used the connectors from the P38 seat pads as a main power feed to the switch/relay, and then trimmed the excess out of the loom to tidy it up a bit. I also ditched the inline fuse, since the feed for the P38 heated seats from the BECM is fused there. That way the HEVAC/BECM still have the overall control of the system.
A few pictures from my install of them:
Removed the seat cover to get to the seat pad - as you can see, this is the original one I repaired about 5 years ago!
I peeled off the old pad, to give a fresh/clean foam base, and then lined up the replacement to go on.
And stuck it down, this shows where I've cut out the sections for the hog rings to go in to secure the seat cover. I taped up the edges of these hold with some thin strips of duct tape.
The seat back go the same treatment - though luckily you don't have to peel the whole cover off!
I installed the temperature selection switch on the panel with the other seat controls. I wanted it to look as 'factory' as possible (hence why I also wired it into the vehicle wiring so was still controlled in the normal way). I did try to find a listing with a square switch, but no such luck unfortunately!
This is my 'modified' wiring loom. The black connector bottom/left is the relay socket, the 3x white connectors on the RHS are the connections to both seat pads in the base/back, and the other one is to the temp switch. The one more centre/right is the one I pinched from the P38 seat element to act as the power feed. As you can see, I cut out the inline fuse and the ground ring terminal - as this does both in the plug, and the feed is fused at the BECM.
I also modified the vehicle wiring a bit - I popped the pins out of the connectors and wired it so that there was just the bigger 3 way connector, with the +ve/-ve wires in it - rather than the 2 connectors that the P388 heater pads use (as they are wired in series by default, and we just want 12V to the circuitry for the aftermarket pads/switch/relay)
Another view of the wiring loom
Now with everything all in place on the bottom of the seat. the relay can just be seen above the motor on the top/right - I used one of the outstation bolts to secure it with the mounting tab that was on the relay housing. You can see both back/base pads plugged in , and the single connector which now connects to the vehicle wiring. The temp switch connector can be seen next to the top/left motor, which plugs in once the side panel is replaced.
Sorry this has turned into a long post, but I hope it helps anyone else who goes down the aftermarket heater pad route.
If you didn't want to do to these lengths, then you could just replace the heater pads, swap the P38 pad connections onto the replacement pads, and then wire them in as the factory ones were. You could also add a thermostat to it if you wished, and then just not use any of the included wiring.
Marty
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Will this plug in with the socket that's already on the RR? or will it need adapting?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pc...lgo_pvid=463b6981-a6a4-48a7-b8b4-4a722ef1a919
I would like it to work off the existing set up, without the other switch
Or this one?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Veh...lgo_pvid=463b6981-a6a4-48a7-b8b4-4a722ef1a919
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pc...lgo_pvid=463b6981-a6a4-48a7-b8b4-4a722ef1a919
I would like it to work off the existing set up, without the other switch
Or this one?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Veh...lgo_pvid=463b6981-a6a4-48a7-b8b4-4a722ef1a919
Last edited:
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
I would think the chances of them being the same is almost zero to non-existent but would be easy to swop over connectors, couple of connector crimps and good to go.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
No, the connectors are different.
With the loom that the kit comes with, I used the connectors from that for the seat heater pads, and the dual temp switch.
I then removed one of the connectors from the old P38 heater pads and wired this onto the main power/ground to the new seat heater loom. That way it's just one connector to swap.
The connectors in the Range Rover are Tyco/Amphenol Multilock 070 series, which you can get crimp pins for - or you can just cut/solder/heatshrink the wires on the heated seat loom side.
As I mentioned, I removed one of the connectors from the vehicle loom, to make it just a single connector to plug in - and all I did was pop the pins out and move them about. This is easily done by lifting up the locking tab at the back where the wires come in, inserting a small screwdriver/needle etc into the front of the connector (on top of the pin) to lift the pin locking tab, and then pulling the wire/pin out.
With the loom that the kit comes with, I used the connectors from that for the seat heater pads, and the dual temp switch.
I then removed one of the connectors from the old P38 heater pads and wired this onto the main power/ground to the new seat heater loom. That way it's just one connector to swap.
The connectors in the Range Rover are Tyco/Amphenol Multilock 070 series, which you can get crimp pins for - or you can just cut/solder/heatshrink the wires on the heated seat loom side.
As I mentioned, I removed one of the connectors from the vehicle loom, to make it just a single connector to plug in - and all I did was pop the pins out and move them about. This is easily done by lifting up the locking tab at the back where the wires come in, inserting a small screwdriver/needle etc into the front of the connector (on top of the pin) to lift the pin locking tab, and then pulling the wire/pin out.
