[Andy_J]

Hi all

I have had the 3 amigo's on the L-series for a couple of months, tested it and found front right sensor was duff so replaced it. but cant get the 3 amigo's to disappear.

So far checked brake switch - 2 wire type
all 4 abs sensors read about 920 to 950 ohms
checked all the reluctor rings and they seem ok, cleaned them up and can't see any breaks
HDC switch is bypassed to a toggle switch
Have a carsoft LRII code reader that will not speak to the ABS
If I plant the foot on a slippery surface I do get ABS to kick in on at least one break circuit

Any suggestions on what I can check next or a code read that will work on it

 

[Nodge68]

I prefer to test wheel sensors actively. This is done using the volts range on the DMM. It's better to test them this way as it checks the whole system. It is possible for the sensor to have a damaged iron core. So the winding could be fine, but may never be stimulated due to the damaged core.
I believe that the early ABS ECU needs resetting after the fault is cleared. I could be wrong though. The codes definitely need reading, which is a Hawkeye or T4 job. The Icarsoft doesn't appear to read early ABS ECU faults.

 

[Andy_J]

What is the DMM? do I need T4 or Hawkeye to check the voltages on the DMM or can I use my multi meter?

 

[Nodge68]

DMM = Digital Multi Meter

 

[Andy_J]

been a long day , how do I test with a DMM? and what voltages an I looking for

 

[GrumpyGel]

TBH all the faffing around is just not worth it!

Take it to a garage and get the codes read/cleared. If they can't read them they won't charge.

For what its worth, I've had the 3 Amigos twice on my L Series and both times its been the ABS modulator/pump (shuttle valves). I forget if I had to have the codes cleared after I swapped out the unit.

I borrowed a hand held diag device from @Tony Reeves - I forget what make/model it is - it wouldn't talk to the engine, but it did talk to the WABCO ABS.

 

[Nodge68]

TBH all the faffing around is just not worth it!

Take it to a garage and get the codes read/cleared. If they can't read them they won't charge.

For what its worth, I've had the 3 Amigos twice on my L Series and both times its been the ABS modulator/pump (shuttle valves). I forget if I had to have the codes cleared after I swapped out the unit.

I borrowed a hand held diag device from @Tony Reeves - I forget what make/model it is - it wouldn't talk to the engine, but it did talk to the WABCO ABS.

There's a shuttle valve mod available for the Wabco unit iirc.

 

[Nodge68]

Stick the DMM on volts AC and spin the wheel. If the sensor is working, you'll see voltage fluctuations. If there is no voltage, there's a fault with the sensor, debris on the pickup or the distance between the ring and sensor head is to large.

 

[GrumpyGel]

There's a shuttle valve mod available for the Wabco unit iirc.

There's a DIY mod that is quite intricate and looks very complicated.

There's a cheap replacement part that's easy to fit (IIRC about £30) - but it only solves some issues - then there's the complete replacement part for the shuttle valves - but that costs about £300.

Both times mine have gone I got a unit from my local breakers. Last time they only charged me about £60.

 

[Andy_J]

Think it is time for the fault codes to be read and cleared.

If it is the ABS modulator, hopefully one of my 'spares' Freelander will have the same modulator.

If I can't get codes read tomorrow, I will try testing the ABS sensors for voltage

 

[GrumpyGel]

The modulator has to be from a pre 2000 car - from 2000 they switched to Teves ABS.

 

[Andy_J]

Had the codes read and cleared today. 2 faults were shown before the reset. Front right ABS sensor and Shuttle valves.
I have replaced the ABS sensor since the light came on so that was fixed.
Once cleared the ABS light stayed off.

So my assumption is either I have an intermittent fault on the modulator or the Wabco system needs code reader to resent certain faults

 

[GrumpyGel]

Of the 2 times I've had shuttle valve problems on the WABCO, one time the Amigos came on and stayed on, the other time they came on but did go out by themselves before coming back on again. Its a few years ago now and I don't recall if they went out more than once or just once. The one time I do recall them going out was when I was 'playing around' on snow. During my bit of fun I noticed the ABS (or more likely TC) kicking in and afterwards I noticed the Amigos had gone out. I'm not sure how long they stayed off for - but it must have been a couple of days because I quickly got my WOF (MOT) done before they came back on again!

I'm not sure what this shows - but it does show that it will turn the Amigos off without a code reset after detecting a shuttle valve issue. Maybe the pump kicking in vibrated a loose connection so it worked again for a while. This though does not tie in with your findings.

 

[Andy_J]

The important thing for me at the moment is the lights stay off until I can get a MOT (due by 15th). Maybe the lights go off after a certain number of ignition cycles if the fault does not reoccur?