[300bhp/ton]

Ive got a Freelander 1 that the tailgate wasn't opening and the window wasn't going down. I lead to believe this has been intermittent and then stopped completely.

I've take the door card off and manually activated the latch to open the door. After opening the door, the door latch now works with the door handle...

But the window doesn't work at all by any means, it's just fully up. The rear wiper and washer also appear not to work.

I've tried disconnecting the battery to reset and calibrate the window, however it doesn't go down when reconnecting the battery. There are no beeps or buzzes however.

If I use the interior window up/down switch I can hear the relay clicking and the two fat blue wires that go into the connector for the window motor both have power. One for up and one for down. So power is getting to the window motor. But obviously something is stopping it, or the wiper/washer working.

I'm at a loss of what to try now. Is there some kind of sensor to know if the door is open or closed that might be causing this?

 

[Skinny Mike]

As for the window, either your motors died, not uncommon or the wire that moves the window has snapped and jammed the motor, also not uncommon.
The rear wash wipe will start going again when you fix the door, it's the ecu that's stopping it.
Mike

 

[Joe_H]

If I use the interior window up/down switch I can hear the relay clicking and the two fat blue wires that go into the connector for the window motor both have power. One for up and one for down. So power is getting to the window motor. But obviously something is stopping it, or the wiper/washer working.

If you measure the voltage across the motor (the blue wires (Blue / black stripe and Blue / green strip)
Then normally they should both be at ground potential. Then switch one way you should have B+ voltage on one side and ground on the other. Switch the other way - the voltage should reverse (the B+ and ground will swap over)
Joe

Edit - sorry, re-reading your post you seem to have confirmed this ? (are the voltages battery positive and ground ?) - if that is the case then the motor is faulty, you could try to unscrew the motor from the housing (four screw I think) then pull it apart - it probably just needs a clean on the commutator and brush housings.
Never done one on a freelander but have done plenty of motor strip and cleans that have been 100% successful in the past. Nothing to lose .

 

[300bhp/ton]

Got a bit further. But still confused.

The calibration didn't seem to be working following the instructions I'd read online. Then I read some saying rather than 5 or 10 sec, disconnect the battery for 30 mins.

So I disconnected the battery while I had lunch. On reconnecting the battery the window still didn't drop. But pushing the down button on the interior switch now made 4 beeps. Up did nothing and the window still didn't move. So I disconnected the battery for 10 sec and tried again same result, beeps when you push the down button. In frustration I then just pushed the button repeatedly and low and behold the window went all the way down. Then pushing up, all the way up.

It now seems to be working as normal. Dropping and raising to open and close the tailgate and up and down on the button.

The worrying thing is, I don't know:

A) why it stopped working. We've owned the vehicle for years and this is the first time it's done it.

B) why the latch and then the Window started working again.

C) what actually went wrong with it.

 

[Joe_H]

Hi,
The sensor for the motor position is in the housing. If the motor does not move, the CCU will not allow the function of the door opening drive either (as the window needs to be dropped slightly as you know.
The whole issue is caused by a simple build up of carbon / crud from the brushes and from condensation in the motor housing (possibly brushes are a bit sticky also) and on the commutator. If the window motor doesn't move, the sensor in the motor housing knows the window has not dropped - hence other opening functions are disabled by the ccu.
By clicking on the button and continually applying current on / off to the motor the high resistance of the build of of crud would usually cause a slight current to pass causing a minute movement of the motor each time, eventually it moves, the movement self leans the crud. That's probably about it.
Just continually hitting the button was enough to start the commutator moving.
If it does it again then it may need removing and cleaning - or, if possible, removing and spraying contact cleaner inside it (if you can find and access point!). squirt loads of contact cleaner whilst spinning the motor by hand.
It is usually possible to dismantle the motor fairly easilly - the difficult part is often opening the case if it is closed with bent tabs - then reassembly as the brushes need to be retained (there are often small pinholes to allow pins to be inserted to keep brushes depressed into holder.)
Hope that helps.
here is the diagram -