[SamF81]

All in all I'm loving my hippo (53 reg facelift) but I have a few things (I don't think any are major) that need fixing with my TD4:

1. The passenger side of the car is not unlocking with the central locking but if I open the doors from the lever on the inside of the door they will lock again off the central locking.
2. It is dipping rpm when idling, yesterday while it was stood idling it dipped low enough it cut out and wasn't as easy to start again as it usally is on start up, it seems to be driving fine other wise from what I can tell.
3. I am sometimes getting a clunk when turning, from the drivers side I think.
4. The rear door seems heavy/stiff, I'm not sure if this is normal or if the hydraulic strut thing needs replacing.

I am waiting for new rear light casing bolts (previous owner kindly rounded them out so I'll have to get the hubby to drill and extract them) and a haynes manual to arrive so I at least know what parts are what, as being a woman my knowledge is limited with cars tho I am determined to learn lol.
We've only lived in this area almost 4 years and trying to find a good/reputable garage. I am not sure I trust my local garage, from previous cars I've taken. So if anybody can recommend one in Sheffield/Rotherham (jct 31 M1) area that'd be great.

Out of interest, while looking at various filters etc I came across a modified crankcase breather, is there any benefit to fitting this instead of the standard blue one?

 

[Nodge68]

What year is the Freelander?
Locking can be as simple as a failing door motor or the harness. The quality of the cable used in the Freelander and other LRs of the time is questionable tbh.
Rear door could well be the strut. They do fail and give stiff opening as a symptom.
The idling issue could be one of many things, but I'd be looking at fuel quality (no supermarket stuff) and possibly a sticky EGR valve, best removed.
The clunk from the suspension is probably a drop link on the ARB.

 

[SamF81]

Its a 53 plate, late october 2003

 

[SamF81]

Well today I took it out and after a lot of stopping and starting when I came to stop it cut out and wouldn't restart, would turn over but not fire. Left it 10 - 15 mins and tried again. Went a little bit further and stopped again, came back after 5 mins and it wouldn't restart, ended up having to call green flag who annoyingly managed to fire it up, the lad said possibly fuel filter, he didn't think injectors as they weren't rattling? He said it was running ok, no smoke.
Hubby sent me to buy camshaft sensor as he thinks its that but I'm not sure that's what it needs.
I can live with all the little niggles but I use my car for work so I can't have it cutting out and not restarting on me.

 

[Skinny Mike]

Try this lot, they've always been great with me,
Elite Land Rover Specialists

• Tel: 0114 283 1785

Unit 7, Glen Works, Carr Road, Deepcar, Sheffield,South Yorkshire, S36 2NR
Not sure where about's in Sheffield you are, but Deepcar is out past Middlewood and Oughtibridge. About 12 miles from the city center.
They are a small independant workshop, but good lads.
You probably want a 'crank position sensor'(£80ish) for the bad starting.
Also change the air filter(£15) the turbo vent filter(£5) and fuel filter(£30).Oh, and get a Haynes manual, unless you want to pay other people to do these simple jobs.
Mike

 

[Skinny Mike]

Forgot to say, most Freelander's clunk from the front when turning, its a design feature
mike

 

[GrumpyGel]

Every clunk that has appeared on my Freelander, I have fixed by leaving it alone. They've all gone in time

Well apart from the IRD 'clunk' - but that was more of an explosion than a clunk!

 

[guineafowl21]

Well today I took it out and after a lot of stopping and starting when I came to stop it cut out and wouldn't restart, would turn over but not fire. Left it 10 - 15 mins and tried again. Went a little bit further and stopped again, came back after 5 mins and it wouldn't restart, ended up having to call green flag who annoyingly managed to fire it up, the lad said possibly fuel filter, he didn't think injectors as they weren't rattling? He said it was running ok, no smoke.
Hubby sent me to buy camshaft sensor as he thinks its that but I'm not sure that's what it needs.
I can live with all the little niggles but I use my car for work so I can't have it cutting out and not restarting on me.

Sounds like fuel pump. Listen for noise in the right rear wheelarch when you turn the key on. Also, consider getting someone with a scanner to check the fuel pressures.

Cam sensor wouldn't cause it to stall, only fail to start. Tell your hubby not to be a 'parts changer'!

 

[SamF81]

Sounds like fuel pump. Listen for noise in the right rear wheelarch when you turn the key on. Also, consider getting someone with a scanner to check the fuel pressures.

Cam sensor wouldn't cause it to stall, only fail to start. Tell your hubby not to be a 'parts changer'!

He's replaced cam sensor but I still daren't drive it in case I can't get it to restart (I do a lot of stop start driving). I have put in diesel additive stuff and a full tank of fuel and gave it a good blast down the M1.

Its just lumpy on idle (sometimes it jumps up a tad and sometimes drops a tad and sometimes drops enough to cut out, but it only seems to have done that when the engine is warm).

You can hear the fuel pump whirring near the wheelarch but it doesn't seem to stop just keeps on whirring.

I've got the blue (03-06) haynes manual now so he's going to be checking filters when he's off work next.

 

[Nodge68]

The fuel pump will run for a minute or so before shutting down (ignition on, engine off)
With the engine running, the pump runs continually until the engine is switched off.

 

[guineafowl21]

He's replaced cam sensor but I still daren't drive it in case I can't get it to restart (I do a lot of stop start driving). I have put in diesel additive stuff and a full tank of fuel and gave it a good blast down the M1.

Its just lumpy on idle (sometimes it jumps up a tad and sometimes drops a tad and sometimes drops enough to cut out, but it only seems to have done that when the engine is warm).

You can hear the fuel pump whirring near the wheelarch but it doesn't seem to stop just keeps on whirring.

I've got the blue (03-06) haynes manual now so he's going to be checking filters when he's off work next.

Yes, the fuel pump brushes get worn and the performance dips and becomes intermittent. yours is just the age when they start failing. Next time it doesn't start, turn the key on and listen for it - then thump the plastic tray behind the right rear wheel and see if it re-starts.

 

[SamF81]

Ordered crankcase breather filter, air filter and turbo vent filter, just waiting for them to arrive (tomorrow all being well) and hubby is going to give EGR and things a good clean and will see how things lie then.
I can hear the pump in the wheel arch when I turn the key, seems to whirr for ages.

 

[guineafowl21]

Ordered crankcase breather filter, air filter and turbo vent filter, just waiting for them to arrive (tomorrow all being well) and hubby is going to give EGR and things a good clean and will see how things lie then.
I can hear the pump in the wheel arch when I turn the key, seems to whirr for ages.

The pump will whirr for ages. When it starts to wear out it'll stop intermittenly and need a thump to get it going again.

 

[Skinny Mike]

If you turn the ignition on, but don't start the car, the pump should whir for 30-60 seconds. If it keeps going constantly without the engine running, it's knackered.
Mike

 

[SamF81]

I counted to about 48 before pump shut off with the ignition on and engine off.
Don't know how long ago air filter was done, didn't look bad but replaced it and the turbo vent breather, turns out the crankcase breather filter has already been replaced with a modified one.
The EGR valve has had a bodge job blanking it seems with a coin and some adhesive or something, so going to get a proper blanking kit.
Not sure which fuel filter I need tho, eurocarparts bring up 2 different ones
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/L...0ac937cb5ff222ff46614336929baabc54ce3a&000140
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/L...98106571ac6c08bbac5cbf695a7c82673d131f&000140

 

[SamF81]

I'm slowly starting to dislike this car more than love it lol. Definitely a love hate thing going on.
Rear door strut replaced but door is still heavy.
Bought fascia plate to replace stereo but can't actually replace the stereo as the 2 screws under handbrake appear to have been over tightened them and semi-rounded by some kind soul. I hate not being able to listen to my music.
The outside screw on both brake light casings have also been rounded out so I can't remove those either, despite having the stainless screws to replace them with, and currently having no brake light on drivers side.
Hubby doesn't want to tackle fuel filter so I'm going to have to take it to a garage for that and to hopefully find out what is causing the rough idle and problem restarting when the engine is warm.
Tho hubby is going to do a fuel back test or something to see if its injectors as there was some oil or diesel or something around that we noticed when replacing cam sensor.

 

[SamF81]

It definitely seems to be fuel related as when it does eventually fire after stalling there is some white smoke.
We went out yesterday on a long run and it drove fine for maybe an hour or so, but then it started to kangaroo and flashed the engine light with the ! inside.

On the plus side I have managed to change the stereo tho , a good dose of wd40 and I managed to coax one of the screws out, the other one still wont budge due to being rounded but the console was able to slide from under it, I need replacement screws now as the one I did get out was rusted, does anybody know where I can get these screws??
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