Yeah the light on the dash flashes with every turn of the key.
I'm pretty sure it's caused by me changing the batteries in the fob!
I'm wondering if someone has changed the eka code in the past?
Not sure the EKA can be changed (only with high end diagnostics no doubt) but the BeCM could have been changed and they come with a unique EKA code!
What model and year do you have? as the earlier keys need to be synced by placing the key in the lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button, then remove the key and lock then unlock on the buttons and then start the engine.
Later models (post 99 I believe) use 'Easy Sync' where the coil around the ignition switch resyncs the key.
I've tried re syncing that way but no joy.
It's a 2001 Westminster Diesel.
I read somewhere about having the siren connected and that all the windows have to be set?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
How long did you take to change the fob batteries, there is a time frame within which they should be changed. Check your owners manual for the time limit and how to rectify.
It wasn't that long to be honest, I've done everything it says in the manual
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
ok, as the side light lamp is illuminating with every turn of the key, the BECM is recieving the code so I can only guess that the EKA code is different. You can try entering the code with the window open and press/pull the sill button as you enter with the key. If all fail's then start a conversation (envelope at the top of the home page) with Rick the Pick, he's the expert.
It says engine disabled press remote or enter code
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Does the fob work?
I'd be tempted to send a message to the legendary @mozz smith and promise him cake if he gets you to start your car.
I'd be tempted to send a message to the legendary @mozz smith and promise him cake if he gets you to start your car.
Keys are out of sync. You need to enter EKA code before they can be resynced. If you change fob batteries they need to be replaced within five minutes of removing them or the fob may lose sync. If you have played with fob make sure led lights when pressed, check batteries are in correct way up. If batteries are in correctly but led does not light cycle slotted cover and check after each cycle. You may have a bad connection. Enter EKA code slowly and purposefully following RAVE instructions.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Steady, I've already eaten all the black ones so you won't even get a full bag of sweets for it.
pm Mozz and see if he can help. If not pm Rick-the-pick. If neither can the only way forward is matches and some sort of accelerant.
Put some diag on it. This usually happens when you lock with fob and unlock with key. Get someone with a Nanocom to disable immobiliser and EKA code. But you will then have to use key.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
Which lights flash when you turn the key to enter the EKA? The hazard lights or the green sidelight indicator on the instrument cluster?
To sucessfully enter the EKA, you need both the CDL and the Key switches in the drivers door latch to be working properly so the BECM can work out how many times the key is turned (Key Switch) and which direction it is turned (CDL switch).
In your situation, I would first test the microswitches in the door latch to ensure they are functioning properly.
I have a microswitch test sheet on my website: http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71 which you can download for free to help test the latch.
If the latch checks out, then it could be a problem with the BECM having a hissy fit - but that is usually more if the battery has gone completely flat when the vehicle is locked, rather than changing the batteries in the key fob. I would also give your local LR dealer a call (or drop in as you might need proof of ownership) and see if you can get the EKA code that is on file from them (unless you've used the EKA before and know that it is correct) as I have had a few BECM's come my way where the EKA has been different to what I've been quoted (sometimes due to the BECM having been swapped with one from another vehicle in the past, and not reprogrammed - or on a few occasions the 'code' written in the book is actually for the radio, not the EKA!)
Check the door latch microswitches first, as it is always handy to know that they are working and sending the information on to the BECM properly - if one of them doesn't work properly or is intermittent, then fix that first, as without them all working properly the BECM will probably never get the full EKA input properly.
Being as you have an '01, you can enter the EKA directly into the BECM using diagnostics gear like a Nanocom. I know a couple of owners up that way with diagnostics, which I can point you in the direction of if you need.
Hope this helps,
Marty
To sucessfully enter the EKA, you need both the CDL and the Key switches in the drivers door latch to be working properly so the BECM can work out how many times the key is turned (Key Switch) and which direction it is turned (CDL switch).
In your situation, I would first test the microswitches in the door latch to ensure they are functioning properly.
I have a microswitch test sheet on my website: http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71 which you can download for free to help test the latch.
If the latch checks out, then it could be a problem with the BECM having a hissy fit - but that is usually more if the battery has gone completely flat when the vehicle is locked, rather than changing the batteries in the key fob. I would also give your local LR dealer a call (or drop in as you might need proof of ownership) and see if you can get the EKA code that is on file from them (unless you've used the EKA before and know that it is correct) as I have had a few BECM's come my way where the EKA has been different to what I've been quoted (sometimes due to the BECM having been swapped with one from another vehicle in the past, and not reprogrammed - or on a few occasions the 'code' written in the book is actually for the radio, not the EKA!)
Check the door latch microswitches first, as it is always handy to know that they are working and sending the information on to the BECM properly - if one of them doesn't work properly or is intermittent, then fix that first, as without them all working properly the BECM will probably never get the full EKA input properly.
Being as you have an '01, you can enter the EKA directly into the BECM using diagnostics gear like a Nanocom. I know a couple of owners up that way with diagnostics, which I can point you in the direction of if you need.
Hope this helps,
Marty
If you change the batteries in the fob and do not replace correctly with new ones, Land rover say within one minute, but a little longer in my experience still works. The fob may lose sync. If the car has been locked with the fob, but then the fob loses sync and does not work, and the car is opened with the key, you will get this message every time. Obviously if the fob has lost sync pressing that won't work and the EKA code MUST be entered before the fob can be synced. The fob cannot be synced with the alarm active.
H
The hazards flash with the four left turns prior to entering the code, upon entering the code the sidelight light on the dash flashes with each entry.
I didn't have the EKA code for the car but landrover customer care gave me the number over the phone after emailing a scan of my v5 and driving license.
It is possible that the code is wrong or that the BECM has been changed, however I have every invoice for everything spent on the car since new and this isn't listed.
I really think I need diagnostics on it but don't have the money to shell out and buy nanocom.
Would be great if you could point me in the direction of someone.
Hi Marty, thanks for the comprehensive reply.
The hazards flash with the four left turns prior to entering the code, upon entering the code the sidelight light on the dash flashes with each entry.
I didn't have the EKA code for the car but landrover customer care gave me the number over the phone after emailing a scan of my v5 and driving license.
It is possible that the code is wrong or that the BECM has been changed, however I have every invoice for everything spent on the car since new and this isn't listed.
I really think I need diagnostics on it but don't have the money to shell out and buy nanocom.
Would be great if you could point me in the direction of someone.
