[wammers]

Its not the map sensor causing the poor performance as I am getting 2v drooping to about 1v occasionally.

I might take you up on that GRRR as I am in Tring. Also would be good to get a 121 with a Nanocom system.

However I did see air bubbles running through the fuel line so could that be the cause of 24 sec 0 - 60 performance?

Air bubbles coming through the clear pipe is more than likely the in tank pump has or is failing. As the injector pump sucks fuel from the tank air can be drawn in from the O'rings on either side of the filter as the genuine lift pump has an NRV in it and makes drawing fuel from the tank pretty difficult for the injection pump. Failed lift pump would also give power problems. Check fuse 39 and relay 12 for function first of all. Lift pump function can be checked see my "How to" in tech archive.

 

[Grrrrrr]

The air seems to be drawn in at the fuel filter. The engine looks mint! Wish mine looked like it. There is a lot of extra clear hosepipe like stuff he has around the fuel line which is odd. Looks like all pipes have been replaced.

Other odd thing is the Nanocom in EDC general shows an air temperature of -38.88. Mine changes but his is stuck at -38.88. Also, his boost doesn't ever change. It is stuck at
103.46 which was exactly the same as the ambient pressure. Finally, his idle value is 132. Shouldn't that be 128? It is revving a little high at idle (840rpm).

Finally, and I'm not sure this is relevent as the rpm value was very low, I found a single fault =

NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file

LOOP CONTROL BOOST PRESSURE INVALID VALUE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 131
INJ. FLOW = 90
OCCURRANCE = 8
---

Any ideas?

 

[wammers]

The air seems to be drawn in at the fuel filter. The engine looks mint! Wish mine looked like it. There is a lot of extra clear hosepipe like stuff he has around the fuel line which is odd. Looks like all pipes have been replaced.

Other odd thing is the Nanocom in EDC general shows an air temperature of -38.88. Mine changes but his is stuck at -38.88. Also, his boost doesn't ever change. It is stuck at
103.46 which was exactly the same as the ambient pressure. Finally, his idle value is 132. Shouldn't that be 128? It is revving a little high at idle (840rpm).

Finally, and I'm not sure this is relevent as the rpm value was very low, I found a single fault =

NANOCOM - EDC.APP - EDC faults file

LOOP CONTROL BOOST PRESSURE INVALID VALUE
Type: INVALID FAULT,MAJOR FAULT,LOGGED,INTERMITTENT
RPM = 131
INJ. FLOW = 90
OCCURRANCE = 8
---

Any ideas?

New MAP i would think but check wiring first. - 38.88 is normal if it is an EGR engine. It is a preset in the ECU to force EGR operation at all ambient temps. Inlet air temp will only change on pre EGR cars. Drop idle to 128 see what you get. Should be rock steady 750. But may have been lifted to stop an idle stall if lift pump is duff. Lift pump also needs checking if there is air being pulled through the clear pipe. It is not possible for the lift pump to pick up air.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Cheers.

I didn't change any settings in case I left it worse off. He's going to test the lift-pump today. Once it is fixed I can always drop the idle down.

 

[wammers]

Cheers.

I didn't change any settings in case I left it worse off. He's going to test the lift-pump today. Once it is fixed I can always drop the idle down.

Yes that is what i was trying to say. Get the lift pump sorted first. But once done idle needs to be lowered, high idle unduly warms transmission fluid sat in gear at lights Etc. Pressure loop fault is down to MAP sensor circuit or sensor itself faulty. No need to do the full flow test to check lift pump initially. When powered up the air in the clear pipe should be pushed into the injection pump. It should self bleed IF the pump is working. That would give an indication of function prior to a full test. If nothing happens it's new lift pump time providing the fuse and relay are sound.. .

 

[EntropyUK]

Thanks guys you have helped above and beyond the norm. I will will test the lift pump today and obviuosly need to have a think about how to replace it as if does sound as if its failing.

 

[wammers]

Thanks guys you have helped above and beyond the norm. I will will test the lift pump today and obviuosly need to have a think about how to replace it as if does sound as if its failing.

Some cut the floor out above it. But tank out is proper way. I don't believe in butchery.

 

[EntropyUK]

Exactly Wammers, do I go for the most expedient or the proper way, I am going towards tank out but need to reseach. Why they never put in an access panel I'll never know. I understand they they did put in a panel in the 322.

 

[biggeeeee]

Exactly Wammers, do I go for the most expedient or the proper way, I am going towards tank out but need to reseach. Why they never put in an access panel I'll never know. I understand they they did put in a panel in the 322.

I have replaced the pump on the P38 and must admit I would never butcher the boot floor, seems like a way to introduce a weak spot for water ingress or rust.
Removing the tank was quite a straight forward procedure. I used a trolley jack and length of wood to support the tank whilst undoing all the pipes.

 

[brianp38dse]

And with the tank out check brake pipes for rust as you dont want to go through it all again.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Thanks guys you have helped above and beyond the norm. I will will test the lift pump today and obviuosly need to have a think about how to replace it as if does sound as if its failing.

Drop the tank but either way make sure the tank is nearly empty before you start. Get a new rubber filler neck and jubilee clips and just cut the old one with a Stanley knife. Saves time and mucking about. There's no need to completely remove the filler-neck etc as it says in RAVE.

 

[EntropyUK]

Going to check pump today. If I need one, where is the best place to source one from and does the maker make a difference?

 

[Saint.V8]

Only use OEM for the lift pump...cheap/Chinese/Britpart only fail and you'll have the problem of dropping the tank again!

Island 4x4 are good on price and delivery (no affiliation - just a satisfied customer)

 

[EntropyUK]

Lift pump not even operating (didn't even pump any fuel with ignition on) so I now know what I am doing this weekend. Only hope that it is the pump rather than the circuit.

So all I need to order is the lift pump, seal and replacement nuts+olives? Plus MAP sensor as per Wammers suggestion.

 

[wammers]

Lift pump not even operating (didn't even pump any fuel with ignition on) so I now know what I am doing this weekend. Only hope that it is the pump rather than the circuit.

So all I need to order is the lift pump, seal and replacement nuts+olives? Plus MAP sensor as per Wammers suggestion.

If you are talking the pump to tank top seal, old one will be ok. Olives and nuts are a must though. Get the VDO pump from Island.

 

[EntropyUK]

I was going to get the pump from Allpart in Hemel as its also a VDO and its a few pounds cheaper plus I can talk to someone face to face if need be.

 

[wammers]

I was going to get the pump from Allpart in Hemel as its also a VDO and its a few pounds cheaper plus I can talk to someone face to face if need be.

Ok as long as genuine OEM VDO. Others aren't worth bothering with.

 

[EntropyUK]

Are these 2 connectors the fuel pipe connections that need to be disconnected before lowering the tank? If so how do they uncouple?

 

[Grrrrrr]

Those are underneath. Think they just pull apart but there might be a ring you squeeze. It is obvious when you are under there. The hardest part for me was the rubber filler-neck as it was half-rotten and everything was rusted solid. I just bought a replacement from Island, cut it and then tidied up when the old tank was off. You car is a lot younger so you might be lucky. Also, have a look under the rear seat in case someone has already butchered it.

 

[EntropyUK]

Cheers Grrrrr, carpet is untouched so have decided to drop the tank. Already took the wheel arch liner out and have been soaking bolts in PlusGas ready for the weekend. Tank filler pipe into the tank looks clean and jubilee clip seems good to go. Only need to look at breather pies over the next couple of days.

Did you put your rear wheels on ramps when you did yours? Only issue I have seen is that the 3 bolt end of the tank strap has the middle bolt sheared off.