back in the day, A welding torch and a spanner was used in the garages I worked in - even the fast fit ones....
but i guess they are probably too close to something flammable, or the guy isn't confident enough to heat it up.
Quite common, I would just pop off the track rod ends and replace the whole lot.. Its not very expensive. But once popped off you can then soak and play with it in a vice to try and salvage it if you wish.
back in the day, A welding torch and a spanner was used in the garages I worked in - even the fast fit ones....
but i guess they are probably too close to something flammable, or the guy isn't confident enough to heat it up.
Quite common, I would just pop off the track rod ends and replace the whole lot.. Its not very expensive. But once popped off you can then soak and play with it in a vice to try and salvage it if you wish.
NP... Defender isn't much different, I recall you have to take off the U shaped thing which is in front of the track rod end but it was certainly easier taking it all off.
If you replace or move, mark it well. and if you unscrew count the threads to be sure you get it the right length. I had the right lengths but one was screwed in too far which mean the garage couldn't adjust them.
I dunno what is std spec for yours but you can get nice new TR ends with grease nipples which will last longer. (but they may be find for your setup) If it is just ceased its likely the clamp holding the bar closed they are pennies and normal nuts and bolts.
Remove the track rod from the car and clean the joints thoroughly where the track rods screw in. Get in and scrape out the pinch clamp bit and remove the clamps - slide them back out of the way.
Heat the tube at the join (not the track rod end - you want differential expansion here) and then hit it with penetrating oil when hot. it will smoke like hell but it wicks in far better.
I've never had a joint fail to move after a couple of iterations of this.