Chrisw8

Well-Known Member
So, thanks to MOT man, I thought I'd have a peek at what the summer job will be like.....

Carpet gripper removed and .......







DAYLIGHT !!!!

I'll get seats out and carpet up for a full inspection over next few days
 
I'd take your rear bumper off too and check the rear crossmember. Mine had no holes where yours does in the pics, just slight surface rust. Took my rear bumper off when I did the body lift and the crossmember looked like it was made from Swiss cheese. :(
 
yeah, I'll remove everything.

Its taxed till end of April, so I'm just taking bits off slowly.
 
lol ...... taking mum out tomorrow, she'd better sit in front.



Been reading other posts re seatbelt bolts.

Is it just the the tork type bolt that needs to be undone ?
 
yeah I saw that thread, but can't work out the association of the tork bolt with the other gubbins,

If I manage to undo the tork bolt.........what happens?
 
yeah I saw that thread, but can't work out the association of the tork bolt with the other gubbins,

If I manage to undo the tork bolt.........what happens?

the belt anchor ends will be free from the floor ...

this shows the rest which is under the floor; but is pop riveted to it :

tie_bo10.jpg
 
ah right....seat belts come off with the tork bolt, but I then need to drill out pop rivets to lift floor off ??
 
ah right....seat belts come off with the tork bolt, but I then need to drill out pop rivets to lift floor off ??

they do need to come out but floor wont lift out until you drill all the spot welds are drilled that secure floor to the cross supports
 
ah right....seat belts come off with the tork bolt, but I then need to drill out pop rivets to lift floor off ??

Well, that's where you start ... :eek:

the floor is spot welded in originally, can be a git to get out ...

but you can get a good look at your chassis and top of the tank while your there ...

Have a search around the Disco section, loads have done this, read up on it and look at piccys, you'll pick up some tips and tricks too ...

It's hard graft as usual ... you won't know what you need in total til you've looked at the rear properly...

and mind the brake pipes when you drill out the spot welds ... :eek:
 
Right ...... Rest seats out.

Rust doesn't seem to have gone beyond the 'normal' rusty area !!!

 
Last one I did I ground the heads off, removed the floor then with a sitting disc cut a slot in the bolt for my big flat head screw driver and with a bit of heat they came out, replaced with normal hex head bolts, M8 I think?

My MO on boot floors has evolved to this, new floor, new struts and support braces, if bad enough new side panels ( I have gotten owners to buy side panels just to cut them up to replace the floors seating flange), slice out old floor with old supports with a slitting disc, if not replacing floors seating flange then grinding disc on and grind spots welds off or buy a propper spot weld drill like this(I found that grinding was faster than drilling, drill bit gets blunt fast when it hits a rust blister!), pre drill the floor for the supports, fit new supports, slot floor in and stitch an inch every 6 inches or so, seam seal and paint.

looks like you'll be replacing the rear crossmember too, just be methodical, rear door off and I welded a couple diagonal angle iron braces in the frame to stop it warping whilst I cut the rot out.
 

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