[Dipsterson]

Good Afternoon All,

Just after some general thoughts/advice re my 2001 Discovery TD5.
I like working on the vehicle myself but am by no means a “mechanic”!

What I can and have previously done (following some great threads on here) is -

Own Service (Oils/filters etc)
Renewed Discs and Pads
Removed/Blanked EGR
Removed/Repaired Starter Motor
Replaced rear suspension Air Springs
Replaced radiator/thermostat etc

Recently I have had a few issues with her starting (New battery was fitted) and it doesn’t feel like there is full power there when driving (sluggish).

Today after looking through some other threads I have –

1) Checked the MAP sensor – It was filthy, all clogged up with tar like oil – now thoroughly cleaned and refitted
2) Checked the Red Engine ECU plug – Unfortunately I have traces of oil contamination on it

Just done some research and found a fantastic link on how to replace the Injector Harness www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop /Injector Harness
Having read through I am certainly happy to have a go at this.

Just found this on Ebay - LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 TD5 INJECTOR WIRING HARNESS & ROCKER COVER GASKET (-2001) | eBay

Couple of questions–

1) Does this product look ok? Or should I be going to Landrover and buying Genuine?
2) If I am doing this is it also worth me looking at replacing the Injector seals/washers whilst I’ve got the rocker cover off? Again I’ve seen a very good step by step guide on it, just conscious it may push my limitations!!

Many Thanks

 

[jamesmartin]

id google amr6103g

 

[Landmark2]

Hi,
Buy genuine harness and gasket. Seen too many posts on people having trouble with aftermarket ones.
Griff

 

[sierrafery]

+1 for genuine on that area, including seals/washers...and IMO it won't hurt to replace them too if you are already there, at last you can rest your mind for that for the next at least 100+K miles as long as you'll not overheat the engine... and buy 13 x ERR7266 cos they are not expensive and you'll not nead any sealant then

 

[Bennehboy]

+1 for genuine on that area, including seals/washers...and IMO it won't hurt to replace them too if you are already there, at last you can rest your mind for that for the next at least 100+K miles as long as you'll not overheat the engine... and buy 13 x ERR7266 cos they are not expensive and you'll not nead any sealant then

+1 on the ERR7266, it's these that cause rocker cover oil leaks more often than the gasket itself.

 

[Dipsterson]

Hi Guys,

Thats settled then - Genuine parts it is!

Many thanks for your advice - I shall prepare my shopping list and include the ERR7266

I've been reading up on the Injectors as figured theres enough info about to at least have a go at it. A number of the write ups make reference to an Injector removal tool? Looking these up they are £100?? Do I really need this or is there a tried and tested method of removing safely without?

 

[sierrafery]

i imrovised and used what's in the attachment, got the ideea from here, 4x4 Community Forum - View Single Post - Td5 - Serious Diesel Knock you'll figure out how to lift the injectors with that tool, it fit's under the middle between the solenoid and injector and you can gently lever them up

 

[Bennehboy]

I use a long 6mm allen key with a chamfer ground into the inner edge of the short side of the key, you can then insert this under the bridge of the injector and gently rock it out.

 

[Bennehboy]

Also worth mentioning that you shouldn't force the injectors back into the seat when you refit them, gently tighten down the metal braces and they get pushed into the seats 'square', theory being that this vastly reduces the changes of seat damage/cracking.

 

[Dipsterson]

Hi All,

So it took me 4 weeks to get round to it but eventually braved it yesterday.
Took me best part of the day but all injector seals/washers replaced along with a new injector harness.....
Got to be honest was very satisfying when all put back together, fuel system purged and she started

Thank you all for your replies and comments on this, some very helpful tips.

Having done this, and it certainly notices as she seams to pull much smoother I still have a bit of an issue with her starting.......

From cold she starts no problem at all - on the turn of the key straight away.
When warm though e.g. stopped to re-fuel, the engine cranks a couple of times before actually starting.

I've repaired the starter motor, got a new battery, cleaned sensors, new fuel filter and now done all the injector seals.

My next thoughts are glow plugs? But would they really make a difference when the engine is already warm though?

Failing that a new starter motor? It was a starter repair kit I used but as I say from cold she fires straight away? :confused2:

Any thoughts on anything else I could try? I'd really like to get her running properly before I start looking at getting ready to try some lanes etc

 

[sierrafery]

you should put it on diagnostics cos for example the FT(fuel temp) sensor's one certain failure which can't be observed other way would cause difficult hot start, so can happen if an injector is missbehaving, or the ECT sensor, or crank sensor, etc... so a proper diagnose might point you to the right dirrection

 

[Dipsterson]

you should put it on diagnostics cos for example the FT(fuel temp) sensor's one certain failure which can't be observed other way would cause difficult hot start, so can happen if an injector is missbehaving, or the ECT sensor, or crank sensor, etc... so a proper diagnose might point you to the right dirrection

Sounds like a plan!
Could be quite timely too as just seen the Nanocom Evolution is currently 20% off until 31st December - Might have to be a Christmas treat for myself

Being a complete Novice with this - I take it this would help me out and save me £100 each time i get a dealer to plug it in

 

[Bennehboy]

Hi All,

So it took me 4 weeks to get round to it but eventually braved it yesterday.
Took me best part of the day but all injector seals/washers replaced along with a new injector harness.....
Got to be honest was very satisfying when all put back together, fuel system purged and she started

Thank you all for your replies and comments on this, some very helpful tips.

Having done this, and it certainly notices as she seams to pull much smoother I still have a bit of an issue with her starting.......

From cold she starts no problem at all - on the turn of the key straight away.
When warm though e.g. stopped to re-fuel, the engine cranks a couple of times before actually starting.

I've repaired the starter motor, got a new battery, cleaned sensors, new fuel filter and now done all the injector seals.

My next thoughts are glow plugs? But would they really make a difference when the engine is already warm though?

Failing that a new starter motor? It was a starter repair kit I used but as I say from cold she fires straight away? :confused2:

Any thoughts on anything else I could try? I'd really like to get her running properly before I start looking at getting ready to try some lanes etc

It won't be the glow plugs when warm.
Won't be starter motor, it would just click if it was on its way out.
If you do a purge BEFORE starting when hot does it fire up right away?

 

[Dipsterson]

It won't be the glow plugs when warm.
Won't be starter motor, it would just click if it was on its way out.
If you do a purge BEFORE starting when hot does it fire up right away?

Hi, Yes thats sort of what I was thinking....

I always wait for the coil glow light to go out even if the engine is hot/cold - when cold always fires first time. When warm it cranks a couple of times before firing.

Like the idea of diagnostics though, an additional piece of kit is always a bonus.....