J

Jwb125

New Member
Hi all, Ive got a few small issues, blend motors etc and im trying to read the codes using a friends nav but the fuse keeps blowing in the fuse box so we are unable to read the faults. Ive removed the panel and looked at the plug where you plug the nav but it looks fine to me. Also my dashboard lighs have stopped working(checked fuses and ok) and to add to it my sat navs playing up to? Your help would be much appreciated or if you know to anyone in the wolverhampton area thats a good but cheap sparky then that would be ok too. I called one place near here and he said he wouldnt touch a p38!!! :confused:
 
Jwb125 said:
Its Marks and he tried it on his straight after and it works on his
Click to expand...
Odd one then, the fuse for the OBD connector powers other things I think, you need to check what else is powered. Also check for green corrosion in the OBD connector front and back.
 
Cant see any green on the plug, we put a 10amp in and that powered up the nan but then blew that fuse too. I need to sort it out so i can sort out my blend motor problem, abs tc lights, dash lights( would a number plate bulb out effect dash lights?) and faulty sat nav
 
Jwb125 said:
Cant see any green on the plug, we put a 10amp in and that powered up the nan but then blew that fuse too. I need to sort it out so i can sort out my blend motor problem, abs tc lights, dash lights( would a number plate bulb out effect dash lights?) and faulty sat nav
Click to expand...
Number plate bulb will not affect the dash lights, the dimmer on the stalk will though.
You need to look at the wire side of the OBD connector, they are inclined to get wet.
 
I've had this problem befor on my p38, I did a hard reset by disconnecting battery and connecting main wires with jump leads for half hour, this takes all power from ecu and this seem to do the trick, might of had sod all to do with it and just a coincidence but you never no with these cars. Good luck
 
Have you already got the lead plugged in to the Nanocom? The instructions are quite specific about connecting the lead to the nanocom first and then the diagnostic port on the car. The reason is the daft metal plug will cause a short when you connect it up if you do it the wrong way round.
 
Thanks, yeah the lead is already connected and works perfectly fine on my friends range. The fuse blows pretty much as soona s you put the fuse in
 
The fuse was already blew when he got the car!
And yes nik,was connected in the appropriate manner ;)
Got it changed couple of weeks ago! I went round Sunday to plug in to find it had blew again before we started!
Changed it again! Plugged in and it worked for about 10 seconds and blew again!
I checked my nanocom on my own car straight away to make sure it survived lol and it was fine
 
The socket looks ok pal, no green, doesnt look damp, got my brother coming round later with a multi meter. I put a 7.5 amp fuse in yesterday and it blew that straight away. Must be a short somewhere, looks like these wires go into main loom? Is the ecu under the drivers seat?
 
Jwb125 said:
The socket looks ok pal, no green, doesnt look damp, got my brother coming round later with a multi meter. I put a 7.5 amp fuse in yesterday and it blew that straight away. Must be a short somewhere, looks like these wires go into main loom? Is the ecu under the drivers seat?
Click to expand...
EAS, Auto box & transfer box ECU's under passenger seat, BECM under drivers seat, SRS ECU under centre console at the rear.
Forget the ECU's, look at what the fuse feeds in RAVE.
 
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