[Moron]

put a volt meter to the glowplugs.........10.7 volts which held for at least 10 seconds , had codes scanned on a Snap On code reader ......came up with fuel quality control ....would I be correct in thinking thats referring to the fuel filter ?

 

[wammers]

put a volt meter to the glowplugs.........10.7 volts which held for at least 10 seconds , had codes scanned on a Snap On code reader ......came up with fuel quality control ....would I be correct in thinking thats referring to the fuel filter ?

That would be fuel quantity control NOT quality. That is to do with the quantity servo in the injection pump. You have a problem. 10.7 is low what is your standing battery voltage?

 

[Moron]

That would be fuel quantity control NOT quality. That is to do with the quantity servo in the injection pump. You have a problem. 10.7 is low.

Oh
new fi pump required?

I asked the chap about the voltage being low when he tested them , he thought it was about right due to the load on the battery ? I too thought 10.7 is low , at least 12 to 13 ?

 

[wammers]

Oh
new fi pump required?

I asked the chap about the voltage being low when he tested them , he thought it was about right due to the load on the battery ? I too thought 10.7 is low , at least 12 to 13 ?

Your battery should be at least 12.6 allowing for a bit of transmission loss voltage at plugs should be over 11. They are 11 volt plugs so a voltage over that is needed to light them up properly. Basically like putting 6 volts through a 9 volt bulb, it will light but won't be too bright.

 

[Moron]

Your battery should be at least 12.6 allowing for a bit of transmission loss voltage at plugs should be over 11. They are 11 volt plugs so a voltage over that is needed to light them up properly. Basically like putting 6 volts through a 9 volt bulb, it will light but won't be too bright.

Ok thank you for that , and the fuel quantity servo?

Also found a blue box under the bonnet a power chip thingy all wired in with a pipe to a "T" piece between inlet manifold and map sensor

 

[wammers]

Ok thank you for that , and the fuel quantity servo?

You need to check that out on live data. Is it a solid major fault logged that comes back as soon as it's cleared or intermittent that can be cleared and goes away? Very early powerbox maybe giving you the fuel quantity problem if it's gone tits up.

 

[Moron]

The chap cleared the fault code , then checked the abs and suspension for fault codes , then went back to the engine codes and the fault code had returned.
Battery voltage this morning 12.4 volts..........attempted to start while a neighbor watched engine and clear pipe from fuel filter to injection pump was empty and as engine cranked fuel was being sucked up the pipe to the pump and the engine did initially fire on one glow .
I also checked for a voltage drop between battery and engine, volts remained at 12.4

 

[wammers]

The chap cleared the fault code , then checked the abs and suspension for fault codes , then went back to the engine codes and the fault code had returned.
Battery voltage this morning 12.4 volts..........attempted to start while a neighbor watched engine and clear pipe from fuel filter to injection pump was empty and as engine cranked fuel and air was being sucked up the pipe to the pump.
I also checked for a voltage drop between battery and engine, volts remained at 12.4

Think you need to check your in tank pump for function there should not be any air in clear pipe. With ignition on and glow lamps lit fuel should be seen to move along clear pipe pushing any air along. If this is happening crack union at pump and get someone to cycle glow lamps, nip union up when air is gone. If this does not happen and air just stays in same place, in tank pump is not working. Check fuse 39 and relay 12. If in tank pump is duff air can be sucked in past O'rings on either side of fuel filter or from a split in the fuel feed pipe inside the tank on cranking, by action of HP pump in FIP. You can check in tank pump for flow/function by feeding positive from battery to socket 5 after removing relay 12. Socket 5 is the one contrary in orientation to the other three. Remove union from pump and place in graduated container. Power socket 5 for 10 seconds. In that time you should get a minimum of 180 ml of fuel in container. Any less pump is tired, none at all pump is duff. Think that covers enough angles to keep you busy for a while.

 

[Moron]

Think you need to check your in tank pump for function there should not be any air in clear pipe. With ignition on and glow lamps lit fuel should be seen to move along clear pipe pushing any air along. If this is happening crack union at pump and get someone to cycle glow lamps, nip union up when air is gone. If this does not happen and air just stays in same place, in tank pump is not working. Check fuse 39 and relay 12. If in tank pump is duff air can be sucked in past O'rings on either side of fuel filter or from a split in the fuel feed pipe inside the tank on cranking, by action of HP pump in FIP. You can check in tank pump for flow/function by feeding positive from battery to socket 5 after removing relay 12. Socket 5 is the one contrary in orientation to the other three. Remove union from pump and place in graduated container. Power socket 5 for 10 seconds. In that time you should get a minimum of 180 ml of fuel in container. Any less pump is tired, none at all pump is duff. Think that covers enough angles to keep you busy for a while.

LOL , yes it certainly will .......and many thanks for your patience and expertise

 

[Datatek]

As Wammers said, 10.7 volts is a tad low assuming your meter is accurate but I'm pretty sure that is not low enough to affect starting in current temperatures.

 

[wammers]

As Wammers said, 10.7 volts is a tad low assuming your meter is accurate but I'm pretty sure that is not low enough to affect starting in current temperatures.

Think he has discovered his real problem Keith. See my previous post.

 

[Datatek]

Think he has discovered his real problem Keith. See my previous post.

Yep, but just pointing out that 10.7 volts at the glow plugs would not stop it starting.

 

[wammers]

Yep, but just pointing out that 10.7 volts at the glow plugs would not stop it starting.

That depends if they are cheapy cheap ones that don't ever get hot with 12 volts.

 

[Datatek]

That depends if they are cheapy cheap ones that don't get ever get hot with 12 volts.

Very true

 

[Moron]

It seems my in tank pump is not doing its job......has anyone experience of cheap new pumps on E bay ( £40) or would I be better served by a genuine one @ £220 ?

 

[Grit Valve]

It seems my in tank pump is not doing its job......has anyone experience of cheap new pumps on E bay ( £40) or would I be better served by a genuine one @ £220 ?

Try famous four £150 oem mines been fine cheap and cheerfull are the £40 ones!

 

[wammers]

It seems my in tank pump is not doing its job......has anyone experience of cheap new pumps on E bay ( £40) or would I be better served by a genuine one @ £220 ?

VDO from Island are ok. OEM and £125.00 plus the dreaded VAT.

 

[mark1971]

Mine does it too Nik,2 go's on plugs and starts 1st turn!
I've done glow plugs (Delphi) leak off pipes,seals in filter housing and in tank pump and ecu temp sensor and still the same (could be relay/timer) but if I have 1 go with plugs and leave it for a coupe of extra seconds when light go's out it will start as if the relay still works a while after light go's out? But it sort of splutters a bit sometimes with 1 go..ill live with 1 extra turn lol

 

[Moron]

VDO it shall be then ........thanks chaps

 

[Moron]

Oh dear .....I still have a problem with fuel draining back to the tank overnight , can anyone tell me where to get a one way valve please or even a link to an online site that sells it ?