[deltacharlie26]

Can I please ask the opinion of those that know before I take the engine out and get stuck in. I understand that the engine to flywheel housing should have a paper gasket fitted. Should I just make sure everything is clean and use Holomar blue on this or use RTV or just use the gasket with no sealer at all? I intend to use a LR OEM crankshaft seal. Then do I use rtv on the mating face of the LT77 gearbox when mating back up again?

This is a big job for me and I want to get it right first time. I have read other similar posts and no one seems to mention the paper gasket but use RTV instead. What the best way, no nonsense fix it once way?

 

[jamesmartin]

gasket if genuine should be impregnated with sealant were its needed which is rear main bearing joints, if not add some,gasket is best

 

[deltacharlie26]

Engine is now out and it was slightly weeping from the seal itself. Also no paper gasket was fitted but RTV used instead. It looks like this failed to stick on one side, hence the major leak from here. All cleaned up, new paper gasket came with pre-fitted RTV where required. I put some RTV around the new OEM crankshaft oil seal just to make sure. I also put a little grease on the crank prior to re-fitting just to help the seal on. Clutch is less than 500 miles old so that's going back. Hope the oil seal doesn't leak again!!

 

[jamesmartin]

sometimes even a good new weeps a little but as long as it doesnt show on the floor

 

[sp00k]

Engine is now out and it was slightly weeping from the seal itself. Also no paper gasket was fitted but RTV used instead. It looks like this failed to stick on one side, hence the major leak from here. All cleaned up, new paper gasket came with pre-fitted RTV where required. I put some RTV around the new OEM crankshaft oil seal just to make sure. I also put a little grease on the crank prior to re-fitting just to help the seal on. Clutch is less than 500 miles old so that's going back. Hope the oil seal doesn't leak again!!

Don't think you are supposed use grease on the rear crank or rtv. All advice I could find was to clean everything thoroughly and fit dry. Seal has ptfe on it which is supposed to be dry fit. I think the grease will damage the seal. I would redo with a new seal while engine is out.

JM will know for sure.

 

[jamesmartin]

depends on seal ,dowty type shouldnt be touched wiped or lubed, std type wont hurt

 

[sp00k]

But the rear crank oil seal (for 200 tdi) is always a dowty type, right - or are there options?

I read a few nightmare threads were people used grease and had to refit them as they failed immediately or shortly after starting.

 

[jamesmartin]

google err2532 there are 2 types available ,though latterly genuine is a dowty

 

[sp00k]

Phew! Was a bit worried there but the one I fitted was a dowty. I guess it would have failed by now if there was an issue as I'm a good few months into the conversion now.

 

[deltacharlie26]

But the rear crank oil seal (for 200 tdi) is always a dowty type, right - or are there options?

I read a few nightmare threads were people used grease and had to refit them as they failed immediately or shortly after starting.

I did a lot of research before doing this job and from what I gathered using grease or oil to help initial fitting and running is suggested by 50% of forumites. Even this board the opinions vary.

My take is that an oil seal is designed to hold back the oil and it will be splashed with enough of it doing its job so a bit on fitting can only be good. I'm only talking about a smear, not enough to clog the valleys of the seal just enough to lube the peaks if you get my drift. Fitting dry, well it will only be dry until the engine starts then the outer lips would not be lubed at all leading to premature failure. But what do I know, that's why I asked about and got equally opposite answers. If it goes again soon, I'll fit a new one dry.
:boom: