[marcinbrighton]

Thanks Kevin, really appreciated.

Eric - Now I can see the pic (couldn't at work) it does look like your one backs up what Rasheed had said in his linked post. Are you able to do a continuity check on the flying lead to see if pin 1 at one end is the same as pin1 at the other? Just wondering if there is an odd wiring setup on the older ones (possibly the left has them swapped?) which might help work out why mine isn't playing the game.

As always, thanks to all of you for your help.

Prop shaft UJs tonight while waiting for Kevin's sensor

 

[marcinbrighton]

For interest, not sure if it will mean anything, or if anyone's got a new version with the internal connector still attached, but I just had another look at my old one (with the flylead) and if you imagine that the flylead wasn't there, and had a connector in its place, then the center pin at the connector would not be the center pin at the other end of the flylead.

I'll try to get a pic to make it make more sense, but I wonder if on the newer versions the pins at the connector (on the sensor) are in fact in different positions than they would be at the end of the flylead.

I'm probably clutching at straws here, but I thought interesting

 

[Datatek]

For interest, not sure if it will mean anything, or if anyone's got a new version with the internal connector still attached, but I just had another look at my old one (with the flylead) and if you imagine that the flylead wasn't there, and had a connector in its place, then the center pin at the connector would not be the center pin at the other end of the flylead.

I'll try to get a pic to make it make more sense, but I wonder if on the newer versions the pins at the connector (on the sensor) are in fact in different positions than they would be at the end of the flylead.

I'm probably clutching at straws here, but I thought interesting

I think you are probably right with that.

 

[rasheed]

Thanks Rasheed, Have you got any pics of the fitting?

Although ,from the pics of the internals that Datatek and I have posted, they do look quite different.

Not to hand Marc, will lift her petticoats and get one for you tomorrow. I agree from those pics that the internals do look different but can't comment further as never opened mine. But what was as clear as day is that arms were quite different and hence the offset bracket. I was wondering if in effect you're not putting an early model sensor on a late model car; the wrong geometry will change the contact position within the pot and give an unexpected reading.

 

[Datatek]

If you are stuck, I can pull a sensor with flying lead off my breaker, you can have it for the cost of postage.

 

[ericbeauchamp]

@marc
Sorry, fitted the sensor last night before I saw your post.
I will try & do a continuity measurement but the car is off to Ashcrofts tomorrow for a Flex Plate change.

Interestingly, I could not fit the bracket as per instructions as it would have placed the sensor completely out of alignment.
The new sensor did fit without the bracket using existing holes.
The EAS Fault was cleared & the the car was raised & lowered over the entire height range.
I original FL error has gone but I won't know for sure until the car has had a run.

If I have anything to add I will let you know.

 

[marcinbrighton]

Thanks Guys.

Kevin's new type sensor turned up today, so about to go have a play with it. Will report back.

 

[kevwill]

Thanks Guys.

Kevin's new type sensor turned up today, so about to go have a play with it. Will report back.

All fingers crossed. Mine anyway, better keep yours free.

 

[marcinbrighton]

Hi All,

OK, update, just to say she's currently de-pressurised and sitting on blocks at standard height.

I put Kevin's (non flylead) on the FL (the one I'm trying to fix) and it gave the same reading as my new non-flylead sensor.

I then put the new non-flylead sensor on the FR (leaving kevins on FL). That gave low readings, but did at least move in the correct direction (i.e readings went up as I moved the sensor as if the car was going up). One odd thing was that the fixing centers didn't seem to line up exactly on the chassis (I didn't fit it completely, just held in place). Put the old FR flylead type back on and it's working fine (phew!).

So, decided to chop the lead off my old flylead version and stick some spade connectors on the end to try the flylead as a 'crossover' lead on the new type sensor on FL. i.e, used the spade connectors into the sensor socket and the multiplug back into the loom.
I followed the same colour code as the old one for the center pin and swapped the two outers around.

One way gave the same low readings as before. However, the other way round gave perfect readings, and has allowed me to reset al the fault codes - apparently now working perfectly

Obviously I'm not going to drive it with the height sensor connected with spade connectors!!

I haven't actually got it to go up and down, as (daft as it sounds!) I wasn't sure if it was OK to have the engine running with no propshafts!! I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work though as it is. I did try jacking the chassis and there was movement in the right direction on the readings, not much, but I guess if it all works on resistance then spade connectors probably aren't the way to go!! The settings are all relative anyway I guess (although to re-iterate, I have no intention of driving it just now )

So I guess I'm gonna need a flylead sensor!

Keith, Thanks for your offer. I presume you wouldn't advise a secondhand one as a permanent fix, but as a test?

One quick question, where would I find the chassis number on the car. It's an XA on the log book, so that backs up that it should be the later type. I think I want to double check the car The fixings not lining up on FR have got me a bit worried.

Kevin, I'll pop yours back in the post for you. Thanks for that

 

[kevwill]

Hi Marc; Does that mean you've got it working with a flylead sensor on FR and a new type sensor/with spade connect flylead on FL??
With the RSW software and lead you can operate the pump and go to the different height levels without starting the engine.
As for the chassis number I think its stamped on the right side chassis member in front of the spring.
I think VIN number can be seen on a panel thru the windscreen, at the bottom on passenger side.

 

[Saint.V8]

VIN should be on a plate at the bottom of the windscreen....on the VIN plate under the bonnet and if your lucky to find it, Stamped on a chassis point somewhere....

EDIT: Kev beat me to it ...

 

[marcinbrighton]

Hi Marc; Does that mean you've got it working with a flylead sensor on FR and a new type sensor/with spade connect flylead on FL??
With the RSW software and lead you can operate the pump and go to the different height levels without starting the engine.
As for the chassis number I think its stamped on the right side chassis member in front of the spring.
I think VIN number can be seen on a panel thru the windscreen, at the bottom on passenger side.

Yeah, that was a quicker way of saying what I did

The Faultmate will let me do that too, just didn't want to kill the battery

Cheers for the info on chassis (and Saint), I'l have a look tomorrow.

 

[Datatek]

Hi All,

OK, update, just to say she's currently de-pressurised and sitting on blocks at standard height.

I put Kevin's (non flylead) on the FL (the one I'm trying to fix) and it gave the same reading as my new non-flylead sensor.

I then put the new non-flylead sensor on the FR (leaving kevins on FL). That gave low readings, but did at least move in the correct direction (i.e readings went up as I moved the sensor as if the car was going up). One odd thing was that the fixing centers didn't seem to line up exactly on the chassis (I didn't fit it completely, just held in place). Put the old FR flylead type back on and it's working fine (phew!).

So, decided to chop the lead off my old flylead version and stick some spade connectors on the end to try the flylead as a 'crossover' lead on the new type sensor on FL. i.e, used the spade connectors into the sensor socket and the multiplug back into the loom.
I followed the same colour code as the old one for the center pin and swapped the two outers around.

One way gave the same low readings as before. However, the other way round gave perfect readings, and has allowed me to reset al the fault codes - apparently now working perfectly

Obviously I'm not going to drive it with the height sensor connected with spade connectors!!

I haven't actually got it to go up and down, as (daft as it sounds!) I wasn't sure if it was OK to have the engine running with no propshafts!! I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work though as it is. I did try jacking the chassis and there was movement in the right direction on the readings, not much, but I guess if it all works on resistance then spade connectors probably aren't the way to go!! The settings are all relative anyway I guess (although to re-iterate, I have no intention of driving it just now )

So I guess I'm gonna need a flylead sensor!

Keith, Thanks for your offer. I presume you wouldn't advise a secondhand one as a permanent fix, but as a test?

One quick question, where would I find the chassis number on the car. It's an XA on the log book, so that backs up that it should be the later type. I think I want to double check the car The fixings not lining up on FR have got me a bit worried.

Kevin, I'll pop yours back in the post for you. Thanks for that

Sounds like it's had accident damage if the holes don't line up and it's been bodged with an old type sensor
The VIN should be stamped in the steel somewhere, don't know where on the P38 but it's usually under the carpet by the drivers seat. Even if it matches, it won't prove thare has not been chassis damage I'm afraid.

 

[kevwill]

Strange that the old type sensor fits but the new type doesn't. Are the mounting holes different on these 2??
You could use insulated bullet connectors to join the wires if you've got it working this way.

 

[Saint.V8]

I am a big advocate of soldered joints and heat shrink tubing....

 

[marcinbrighton]

Hiya,

I'll put a vernier across the fixing centers later and double check them. Interestingly, on the FR there were three holes in the chassis (FL only has two). Only two being used for the sensor, but no bracket or heatshield.

Kev, do you mean do the cross over using the bullets in the main loom? That would work I think, but I think I'd rather get a new flylead sensor than confuse the current setup any further!!

Ant - I'm with you on that, but point above still stands

 

[kevwill]

Hiya,

I'll put a vernier across the fixing centers later and double check them. Interestingly, on the FR there were three holes in the chassis (FL only has two). Only two being used for the sensor, but no bracket or heatshield.

Kev, do you mean do the cross over using the bullets in the main loom? That would work I think, but I think I'd rather get a new flylead sensor than confuse the current setup any further!!

Ant - I'm with you on that, but point above still stands

Yep, that's what I meant. As long as the right wires are going to the right place it won't confuse the eas.
I'll check my chassis later and see how many holes on the FR. Let you know.

 

[wammers]

Hiya,

I'll put a vernier across the fixing centers later and double check them. Interestingly, on the FR there were three holes in the chassis (FL only has two). Only two being used for the sensor, but no bracket or heatshield.

Kev, do you mean do the cross over using the bullets in the main loom? That would work I think, but I think I'd rather get a new flylead sensor than confuse the current setup any further!!

Ant - I'm with you on that, but point above still stands

That means nothing. Only that maybe early and later chassis legs were used to make the chassis.

 

[marcinbrighton]

That means nothing. Only that maybe early and later chassis legs were used to make the chassis.

that's a relief!!!

 

[wammers]

that's a relief!!!

I seriously doubt that a main chassis leg has been changed at any point.