bushwwacker
Well-Known Member
Try stripping the door seals out of couple of trannies or sprinters at tour local scrappers as a quick fix...
martin1512
Well-Known Member
To be honest, you are unlikely to ever get a hardtop to be 100% waterproof or draughtproof. If you want to stay warm & dry you either need to invest in a set of waterproofs, convert your hardtop to a truck cab, or fit a soft top.
To be honest, you are unlikely to ever get a hardtop to be 100% waterproof or draughtproof. If you want to stay warm & dry you either need to invest in a set of waterproofs, convert your hardtop to a truck cab, or fit a soft top.
How does fitting a truck cab keep you dry? I get snowed on inside my truck cab... even when it's not snowing outside!
dominicbeesley
Well-Known Member
I've been surprised by the tilt on mine, there's the occasional wee on the seat but very rarely driven in snow, wind, hail, torrential rain and never had a problem but a curtain between the back and front is a good idea in the winter.
For sealing I've been using the very sticky black gutter sealer from B&Q it sticks like a good un and stays fairly flexible.
For sealing I've been using the very sticky black gutter sealer from B&Q it sticks like a good un and stays fairly flexible.
martin1512
Well-Known Member
On my 109, my truck cab has always been drier than the hardtop, but the soft top was the driest & warmest of all.How does fitting a truck cab keep you dry? I get snowed on inside my truck cab... even when it's not snowing outside!
Forgottenpoppy
Well-Known Member
How does fitting a truck cab keep you dry? I get snowed on inside my truck cab... even when it's not snowing outside!
There's shampoo for that
mrchurchill109
Active Member
As no one else is going to answer you, let me take a shot at it.
the fun part of Land-Rover roofs is figuring out where the water is actuallly getting in. I got the truck cab on my 109 tight, but it was a job.
Get up on a ladder and inspect the inside of the gutter - where the ally sheet meets the galvanized rail. if there are cracks in the sealant there the seal between the ally and steel has perished and needs to be redone. I must confess being the anal-retentive type I am i drilled out the rivets cleaned out the old sealer and went in with butyl rubber caulk. That one willl NEVER leak again, but it is a helluva lot of work.
If that joint is OK, then the seal between the sides and the top, and the sides and the back box need to get checked. Those are available and not horribly expensive IIRC, though many have used heavy foam sealing strips normally used for pickup truck caps on the bottom joint. On the top were it me I'd be going with butyl rubber after separating the two pieces - glue the damn things to each other and be done with it.
Again, find the ingress point, then deal with it as necessary.
ajr
the fun part of Land-Rover roofs is figuring out where the water is actuallly getting in. I got the truck cab on my 109 tight, but it was a job.
Get up on a ladder and inspect the inside of the gutter - where the ally sheet meets the galvanized rail. if there are cracks in the sealant there the seal between the ally and steel has perished and needs to be redone. I must confess being the anal-retentive type I am i drilled out the rivets cleaned out the old sealer and went in with butyl rubber caulk. That one willl NEVER leak again, but it is a helluva lot of work.
If that joint is OK, then the seal between the sides and the top, and the sides and the back box need to get checked. Those are available and not horribly expensive IIRC, though many have used heavy foam sealing strips normally used for pickup truck caps on the bottom joint. On the top were it me I'd be going with butyl rubber after separating the two pieces - glue the damn things to each other and be done with it.
Again, find the ingress point, then deal with it as necessary.
ajr
My hard top leaks and i have done all sorts of work sealing gutters and seams, adding sealant to joins between top and sides etc. It will go for weeks without letting in a drop then in modest rain i get wet and the foot wells are like a swimming pool.
It is a Land Rover and this is something you have to live with.
It is a Land Rover and this is something you have to live with.
owl
Well-Known Member
There Is a link on Landyzone to a 35 page water leak manual put up by Mad Hat Man
water ingress manual
I have been using the manual at work for years and am still doing 2012 MY Defenders with the same leaks.
water ingress manual
I have been using the manual at work for years and am still doing 2012 MY Defenders with the same leaks.
tom1disco.300
Active Member
dosent matter what you do with her,tubes of silicone,miles of rubber,or rap it in bubble rap,with miles of tape,will still leak somewhere! i cant turn a left hand corner in the morning without my leg getting soaked,and my hand being rained on! the goldfish in the foot well rely on the rain! lol
lol
Land Raver
Well-Known Member
I would recommend using Sikaflex sealant rather than silicone as you can't paint over silicone and this may be an issue if you need to repaint in the future.
