[rangerovertoy]

2.5 Dse,manual box
symptoms, engine ran perfectly revved nicely stood still,drove normally but had no power,it would reach rev limit if you were on a flat or downhill,uphill you had to be revving it around 4k to get up the hills!and the temperature was higher than normal especially uphill,came back down when you got to the top though,
fuel comsumption was better than normal though?why?tried changing fuel filter and airfilter along with oil and filter,checked for diesel leaks etc,could find nothing,it simply ran good and smooth but was just down on power?
no mil/engine light light nothing?
found it today,never seen that fault before!!

so any idea,s?

 

[Grit Valve]

Try changing gears,sorry haven't got a clue what your on about revs normal drives normal but won't go up hills unless its revving that's what most cars do unless you mean the clutch is slipping ????

 

[Devs90]

Split vac hose??

 

[rangerovertoy]

Gues i could have put it better! it drove ok no missfire or diesel knock etc just had no oomph? although eventually it would get there,just slowly,
the clue is there in the original message though,althoughits easy for me to see it now ive fixed it!!

 

[rangerovertoy]

Split vac hose??

that was what i hoped when i started checking everthing! but no,

 

[dubbleRR]

The hill was icy :doh:

 

[Grit Valve]

The hill was icy :doh:

Well you said the revs were getting up hence why I said is something slipping like your clutch arnol

 

[rangerovertoy]

Well you said the revs were getting up hence why I said is something slipping like your clutch arnol

said you needed to keep the revs around 4k to get up the hill,or it would die slowly

 

[Grit Valve]

said you needed to keep the revs around 4k to get up the hill,or it would die slowly

Turn the stereo down and you might even hear your wheels spinning and feel what's your cars doing in future

 

[rangerovertoy]

Turn the stereo down and you might even hear your wheels spinning and feel what's your cars doing in future

lol actually on the gravel tracks of which there are many around here,it does spin the wheels,leaving lovely elevens in the gravel!!

 

[wammers]

The pressure pipe had not fallen off the MAP sensor by any chance had it?

 

[rangerovertoy]

The pressure pipe had not fallen off the MAP sensor by any chance had it?

no map sensor on this one(early)anyway apologies for delay on replying internet gone down again for 3 days!!
ok the fault was,the 3 cables that go to the boost sensor,inside the rubber boot where it plugs onto the boost senor had fractured! im guessing vibration as they had no support from where they exit the loom by the engine block,
20 mins stripping soldring and rewrapping had her zooming along again!
clue in original post was fuel consumption gone down and power as well,ergo it wasnt getting the extra fuel it needed to go on boost!!:bolt:

 

[Saint.V8]

The Boost sensor is the MAP sensor.....I think you confused Wammers post with the MAF sensor....

Wammers wins the prize on this one!!!

 

[wammers]

no map sensor on this one(early)anyway apologies for delay on replying internet gone down again for 3 days!!
ok the fault was,the 3 cables that go to the boost sensor,inside the rubber boot where it plugs onto the boost senor had fractured! im guessing vibration as they had no support from where they exit the loom by the engine block,
20 mins stripping soldring and rewrapping had her zooming along again!
clue in original post was fuel consumption gone down and power as well,ergo it wasnt getting the extra fuel it needed to go on boost!!:bolt:

Well found and sorted. MAP sensor is "Manifold absolute pressure sensor". Commonly known as boost sensor.

 

[NikTheGeek]

How do you test the wires as I unplugged mine (just to see) and it made no difference to the cars performance. I bought a new map sensor thinking mine was duff, but again, it made no difference. I know how to test the map sensor itself, but how do you test the connections to it?

I assume one to be earth, one to be 12v and the other to be the signal. But that's just a guess. Actually, since playing with new map sensors, I now have a Nanocom so will that give me a reading?

tnx

Nik

 

[Datatek]

How do you test the wires as I unplugged mine (just to see) and it made no difference to the cars performance. I bought a new map sensor thinking mine was duff, but again, it made no difference. I know how to test the map sensor itself, but how do you test the connections to it?

I assume one to be earth, one to be 12v and the other to be the signal. But that's just a guess. Actually, since playing with new map sensors, I now have a Nanocom so will that give me a reading?

tnx

Nik

You should be able to see the MAP readings on Nanocom.
RAVE will give you the wiring.

 

[NikTheGeek]

You should be able to see the MAP readings on Nanocom.

Thanks. Not played with live readings yet. Only used it to check for faults. When I didn't have any, I put it away in the boot and forgot about it!!

 

[wammers]

You should be able to see the MAP readings on Nanocom.
RAVE will give you the wiring.

You can.

 

[rangerovertoy]

The Boost sensor is the MAP sensor.....I think you confused Wammers post with the MAF sensor....

Wammers wins the prize on this one!!!

correct I did actually confuse maf with map,doh that will teach me to read the post properly,
must confess i didnt check for signal,just removed sensor used a little of my precious last tin of tricoethylene to clean it inside,resoldred the coloured wires to the same wires i found nearby,and tested it up the track, worked lovely,I as said did initially suspect a split boost pipe but it was almost new,so searched elsewhere for a fault,then went back nearly fell over when i found the three broken wires,one maybe or possibly 2 but all three had let go!