[Jamiehol]

So the DSP in my 02 Vogue has died and rather than risk a second hand one or pay 500 quid for a new one.

I was thinking of putting in a aftermarket head unit and use it's internal amp or even with a separate amp, but before I embark on it does anyone know if the DSP has separate outputs for the woofer, mid range and tweeter in the doors or do they just output for the woofers and mid range speakers ?

 

[Datatek]

So the DSP in my 02 Vogue has died and rather than risk a second hand one or pay 500 quid for a new one.

I was thinking of putting in a aftermarket head unit and use it's internal amp or even with a separate amp, but before I embark on it does anyone know if the DSP has separate outputs for the woofer, mid range and tweeter in the doors or do they just output for the woofers and mid range speakers ?

Do a search, clarky130 has covered this pretty well on this page

 

[Jamiehol]

Have read clarky's thread but as far as I can see that details getting rid of the factory headunit but retaining the Land Rover amp, where as I want to replace the head unit to get rid of the factory amp

 

[2.0_hippo]

Just link through at the amp end and fit your own head unit ?

 

[Jamiehol]

Just link through at the amp end and fit your own head unit ?

Yes that is what I want to do, but trying to understand how the crossovers are done for the 3 speakers I have got in each door, as worst case I need to add some crossovers in between the new head unit and speakers.

 

[2.0_hippo]

buy some new crossovers would be easier in my opinion

 

[Clarky130]

Crossover is done internally in the DSP amp... one output rolled off @500Hz feeds the woofers, another output from 500Hz upwards feeds the mids and tweeters - tweeters have their own hi-pass filtering built in.

You will need 2-way passive crossovers x4... also, if you want to keep the original HU you will need a 4-channel attenuator to drop it to line-level, and a balun to allow the HU signal to be fed into an unbalanced input.

Easiest is to replace amp and HU with aftermarket, and use vehicle loom to carry the line-out signal to the back by adapting some RCA leads at either end. You will still need the crossovers to run the speakers, though. You can make your own for about £25 - you need a 100uF bipolar / non-polarised capacitor, and a 1.0mH inductor for each channel - that will get the rolloff point near-as-dammit...

 

[Jamiehol]

Clarky thanks for the response I thought the tweeters had their crossover built into them but it's been a while since I had one of the mirror covers off.

Have got a nice proper Alpine head unit sitting in the garage going spare, so will probably chuck that in and feed to some crossovers where the Amp normally sits. When I have got a bit more time I will probably chuck in a proper amp and small sub.

At the minute just want a radio for when we go away on holiday in a couple of weeks.

 

[Clarky130]

The real danger is in feeding tweeters lower freqs than they're designed to handle - if you just throw in the HU, then bridge the terminals in the DSP amp connector, you will get speaker-level signals direct to your speakers. (pull the tweeter panels off first just to check that they do have capacitors in-line - not all of them do)

Just keep the bass turned down on the HU and you should have sound - albeit poor quality. I wouldn't crank it up too loud though - and wire your bypass in series, not parallel - HUs will handle a 16ohm load quite well, but a 2ohm load will likely blow its internal amp. The rest you can sort out in due course...

 

[Jamiehol]

Clarky yes happy wiring the inductors and capacitor in series, my days messing about with car stereo setups when i was younger and my electronic engineering degree has taught me that.

In the long term I will probably so out a separate 4 channel amp and a small active sub to go where the factory one lives.