Datatek
Well-Known Member
We flogged this one to death before Tony. That just is not so, the EGR is disabled on mine, pull the MAF and it runs like a dog above idle so it must affect fuelling.
We flogged this one to death before Tony. That just is not so, the EGR is disabled on mine, pull the MAF and it runs like a dog above idle so it must affect fuelling.
FIP Timing Chain Stretch is well documented and will cause poor starting when warm, and in severe cases poor starting cold too....
I have not heard much about lack of poor once the engine is running, but that is not to say it can't/won't happen.....
The FIP chain stretches over time (usually beyond 20k miles it needs retiming) the Offical Land Rover RAVE manuals do state the procedure to retime the FIP and mentions this stretch due to age symptom.
Sounds liek the man in blue overalls knows his mustard, but timing a pump is not for the faint hearted and needs to be done just-so....
We flogged this one to death before Tony. That just is not so, the EGR is disabled on mine, pull the MAF and it runs like a dog above idle so it must affect fuelling.
If the dog it runs like is a Greyhound what's the problem. It also measures inlet air temp
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Druim
Well-Known Member
Think they're gonna start again:5bbeatdeadhorse5:
Druim
Well-Known Member
I know, it is always good to watch these two LZ Greats do battle....even more impressive when they go into battle allighned against a common foe....
Wanna share me
Yes please, soon one of them will say we're not going to start again - But then :fencing::fighting: :kiss:
6704nathan
New Member
another thing to check for the fault would be blocked exhaust often over looked as a possibility!
slacken join between center pipe and downpipe so it can blow and try if its the same tighten and slacken of at turbo to downpipe to see if cats blocked.
also take it for a run and see if any silencer or cat is excessively hot
slacken join between center pipe and downpipe so it can blow and try if its the same tighten and slacken of at turbo to downpipe to see if cats blocked.
also take it for a run and see if any silencer or cat is excessively hot
2perry
Member
All good stuff thank you, I did slacken off the exhaust at about the mid point before large silencer, car ran the same, have not tried it at cat end, think we I'll leave that to the overalls on Tue, appreciate all the points so far to everyone and will update after Tuesday hopefully with her running sweet again
With regards to AMF it does control more than EGR as mine runs like a blind three legged mutt without it
Enjoy the battle
I know, it is always good to watch these two LZ Greats do battle....even more impressive when they go into battle allighned against a common foe....
Wanna share me
Hey you stop causing trouble. The MAF on the diesel is there to control the EGR. It measures the temp and volume of incoming air, the ECU takes that and calculates the mass and therefore oxygen content. Under certain running conditions it opens the EGR valve to allow exhaust gas into the manifold to reduce the oxygen content of the charge, and so reduce the burn temperature, to lower generation of NOx. If the MAF is duff or disconnected the ECU goes to a preset mode because the EGR cannot work. The MAF does not control the fuelling directly as it does on a petrol engine.
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2perry
Member
Hi guys
Just an update for you, the guy covered in oil, found that both timing chains were very stretched, nearly a link larger, she now runs a lot sweeter, but still have an issue when she is warm, his diag machine implied that a heat sensor was given readings of -35 but unsure which one this would be, so I'll be asking the question on a new tread if I can't sort this week, thanks again for all replies.raise:
Just an update for you, the guy covered in oil, found that both timing chains were very stretched, nearly a link larger, she now runs a lot sweeter, but still have an issue when she is warm, his diag machine implied that a heat sensor was given readings of -35 but unsure which one this would be, so I'll be asking the question on a new tread if I can't sort this week, thanks again for all replies.
raise:
Datatek
Well-Known Member
He ain't talking about the ambient sensor and if it has a MAF that reading is normal as the sensor is no longer there, the temperature is read from the MAF.
Fair Game - I stand corrected (as usual
)
If it is the fuel temp sensor constantly reading -35 degrees. Engine will be getting under fueled. The colder and denser the fuel the less is injected. If it's the MAF temp sensor reading a constant -35 degrees. The EGR valve will be open when it should not be, because the ECU thinks cold dense oxygen rich air is being ingested. Think i would be looking at the MAP sensor also. Pressure pipe to it for splits or obstructions. Manifold outlet for obstructions and MAP sensor itself for oily obstruction.
2perry
Member
Nice one wammers the fuel one makes a little sense, I have egr blanking kit fitted ( not 5 pence version
) so hoping MAF not making a change there, car runs spot on cold inc starting, just when warm cranks to start ( have read all posts on how to sort that issue thanks guys) but as its linked to poor running too I want to hold fire until that problem cured. The timing chains have made a huge difference but if you look at original post on this thread that is what I have now but only when hot?? :whoosh:
Nice one wammers the fuel one makes a little sense, I have egr blanking kit fitted ( not 5 pence version
It's 1 p actually and does exactly the same job as the £40.00 version. Excepting that the £40.00 version sticks out like a sore thumb and may fail the MOT in time to come. Maybe next year, certainly the year after.
