[kieronf]

My 4.6 is currently in the garage getting a new air temp sensor fitted.

I got a call from them this morning asking if my car 'always started that way' by which they mean that when I unlocklock it on the remote and get in, I always have to press the right button on the remote to get it started, otherwise I get a beep and the engine disabled message on the dash.

I must admit I've never thought about it before today but having looked at the owners manual on RAVE this doesn't seem right. RAVE seems to say that once the car has been locked and unlocked with the remote, it should simply require the key to be inserted and turned in the lock to start - no button pressing.

I'm not that fussed be honest, if it starts, it starts - its just that if anything else might be wrong I'll get it done while its in the garage.

First off, is this right - and has anyone else experienced it.

 

[JohnP38]

My 4.6 is currently in the garage getting a new air temp sensor fitted.

I got a call from them this morning asking if my car 'always started that way' by which they mean that when I unlocklock it on the remote and get in, I always have to press the right button on the remote to get it started, otherwise I get a beep and the engine disabled message on the dash.

I must admit I've never thought about it before today but having looked at the owners manual on RAVE this doesn't seem right. RAVE seems to say that once the car has been locked and unlocked with the remote, it should simply require the key to be inserted and turned in the lock to start - no button pressing.

I'm not that fussed be honest, if it starts, it starts - its just that if anything else might be wrong I'll get it done while its in the garage.

First off, is this right - and has anyone else experienced it.

once the car has been locked and unlocked with the remote, it should simply require the key to be inserted and turned in the lock to start - no button pressing. That is correct.It sounds in your case as if the passive immobiliser is reimmoblising the vehicle before you put the key in the ignition.I havent heard of that happenning before,unless of course you are waiting for more than 30secs before inserting the key in the ignition switch.

 

[kieronf]

Nope, as i say, i just jump in after unlocking and if i put the key in and turned it there would be a buzzer and the message 'engine disabled' - once I press the right button there is an audible click from somewhere behind me and the message 'start engine' appears and off we go.

Never thought twice about it before until the garage rang this morning. It's been like it these past five years, so not a pressing issue but having said that I'm now suitably ****ed off and want to just get in the car and turn the key - the upside is, my missus thinks the whole damn thing is so complicated that she seldom wants to drive it

 

[JohnP38]

It is a strange one.
I know if I lock mine using the the remote fob and then use only the mechanical key to open it then I get the engine disabled message if I try to start it.I then press the remote to remove the message and it starts.Yours seems to behave like this using the remote only.

Try locking it with the mechanical key only and then later open with the mechanical key and see if it starts without having to press the remote.This should be normal behaviour.

It is possible the BECM has been scrambled and now works in a non standard fashion.It would be interesting to read your Becm settings to see if anything odd shows up.

 

[kieronf]

Oooooooooooh - that sound awfully iffy to me. That sounds just like what happens when I decide to put up a new picture hook in our right old house. Two bags of lime plaster and a tin of emulsion later...........................

I think I'll leave it - it being a P38 and all.

 

[clarkie]

if you unlock the car with the remote but dont put the key in the ignition and turn it to position 1 within about 1 minute the car re-imobilize itself

 

[kieronf]

if you unlock the car with the remote but dont put the key in the ignition and turn it to position 1 within about 1 minute the car re-imobilize itself

I'm talking about getting straight in and turning the key - each time i have to click the right button on the remote with the key in the ignition or I get the 'engine disabled' message and the buzzer.

It doesn't matter how long between getting and starting, that's just the way the car has always been in the five years that I've had it. I've only ever considered it normal right up until today but now I know - I've a mind to get it sorted, but with all things P38, if it ain't broke, so to speak, don't fix it - that is unless some kind soul on here knows exactly how to fix it without hexes, spells 'n magic.

Ther last thing I need right now is to eff up a perfectly seviceable car for the sake of starting it up differently - that would deffo send my missus into 'get rid of it mode' :blabla:

 

[Druim]

Ever performed the key sync? (with all your keys)
Also you should only have to open a door or something not ness. key in ign. to avoid re-immobilization

 

[JohnP38]

Ever performed the key sync? (with all your keys)
Also you should only have to open a door or something not ness. key in ign. to avoid re-immobilization

Not correct ,the key should be in the ignition for the coil around the barrell to talk to the fob,to prevent re-immobilization.

 

[dogsbody]

the upside is, my missus thinks the whole damn thing is so complicated that she seldom wants to drive it

Sounds like a benefit to me. If you ever find out what causes it give me a shout, I might want to adapt mine.

 

[Druim]

Not correct ,the key should be in the ignition for the coil around the barrell to talk to the fob,to prevent re-immobilization.

My car is the same year as yours (1995) and doesn't need the key in ignition to avoid re-immo, just open a door (car sometimes left for hours before starting).
Always worth a try with the re-sync in case it works and maybe also EKA, looks like there's many optional settings depending on market or who get their hands on encoding equipment.

From workshop manual:
Auto Relock
When a valid unlock request is received from the
remote handset and all windows are closed, the
ultrasonic sensor is activated for a period of 60
seconds or until movement is detected or:
- a door is opened or closed
- the tail door is opened
- the key is inserted in the ignition
- the ignition is turned to position I
- the vehicle is re-locked with the key or the remote
handset.
If, after 60 seconds, none of the above has occurred,
the vehicle will relock to its previous locked condition

Resynchronisation
On vehicles up to 97MY, resynchronisation is
achieved by locking or unlocking the driver’s door
using the vehicle key with 30 seconds of locking,
superlocking or unlocking using the remote handset.
The BeCM monitors the condition of the driver’s door
CDL switch to initiate the resynchronisation.
On vehicles from 97MY, friendly resynchronisation
was introduced on vehicles with passive
immobilisation. A remote handset that is not
synchronised to the BeCM will automatically be
resynchronised when the key is inserted in the ignition
without using the vehicle key or Emergency Key
Access (EKA) procedure.
The resynchronisation uses a pick-up coil in the
remote handset and a passive coil located around the
ignition barrel. The passive coil provides a signal for
the remote handset to transmit an unlock signal to
remobilise the vehicle.

Battery Backed-Up Sounder (BBUS) - certain
vehicles from 96MY
The BBUS was introduced into some markets from
96MY onwards and since the drive requirements are
different from the klaxon, the BBUS is market
programmable.
The BBUS has its own internal power supply. If the
vehicle battery or the BBUS is disconnected, the
BBUS will be triggered and will sound for
approximately 4.5 minutes.
To disconnect the BBUS, the ignition should be turned
on and then off. The BBUS connector must be
disconnected within 17 seconds of the ignition being
turned off or the BBUS will be triggered. When the
BBUS is sounding it can be cancelled by unlocking
the vehicle with the key or the remote handset only if it
is connected to the vehicle harness.

 

[jerrytlr]

Resynchronisation
On vehicles up to 97MY, resynchronisation is
achieved by locking or unlocking the driver’s door
using the vehicle key with 30 seconds of locking,
superlocking or unlocking using the remote handset.
The BeCM monitors the condition of the driver’s door
CDL switch to initiate the resynchronisation.

I'm a bit confused by this - if the remote has lost synchronisation, how do you lock/unlock with the remote handset and then (within 30 sec) lock/unlock with the key? Maybe there is a typo and it should read '...and then within 30 seconds locking, ...'? i.e. surely the key lock/unlock must come first??

Cheers,

Jerry

 

[enery8]

Mine is 99MY diesel and if I unlock it and open a door I can leave it all day without re-locking. If I don't open a door within a short period of time it re-locks.
In order to start the car the correct fob has to be very close to the ignition lock.

 

[JohnP38]

I'm a bit confused by this - if the remote has lost synchronisation, how do you lock/unlock with the remote handset and then (within 30 sec) lock/unlock with the key? Maybe there is a typo and it should read '...and then within 30 seconds locking, ...'? i.e. surely the key lock/unlock must come first??

Cheers,

Jerry

It means you push the lock/unlock button on the fob.It dosent actually lock/unlock the vehicle,but the RF receiver does pass on the transmission to the BECM which it ignores ,unless it receives within 30secs a signal from the door lock that the key has been used to lock/unlock the door.It then accepts the remote as being genuine and resyncs it.

 

[JohnP38]

My car is the same year as yours (1995) and doesn't need the key in ignition to avoid re-immo, just open a door (car sometimes left for hours before starting).
Always worth a try with the re-sync in case it works and maybe also EKA, looks like there's many optional settings depending on market or who get their hands on encoding equipment.

From workshop manual:
Auto Relock
When a valid unlock request is received from the
remote handset and all windows are closed, the
ultrasonic sensor is activated for a period of 60
seconds or until movement is detected or:
- a door is opened or closed
- the tail door is opened
- the key is inserted in the ignition
- the ignition is turned to position I
- the vehicle is re-locked with the key or the remote
handset.
If, after 60 seconds, none of the above has occurred,
the vehicle will relock to its previous locked condition

Resynchronisation
On vehicles up to 97MY, resynchronisation is
achieved by locking or unlocking the driver’s door
using the vehicle key with 30 seconds of locking,
superlocking or unlocking using the remote handset.
The BeCM monitors the condition of the driver’s door
CDL switch to initiate the resynchronisation.
On vehicles from 97MY, friendly resynchronisation
was introduced on vehicles with passive
immobilisation. A remote handset that is not
synchronised to the BeCM will automatically be
resynchronised when the key is inserted in the ignition
without using the vehicle key or Emergency Key
Access (EKA) procedure.
The resynchronisation uses a pick-up coil in the
remote handset and a passive coil located around the
ignition barrel. The passive coil provides a signal for
the remote handset to transmit an unlock signal to
remobilise the vehicle.

Battery Backed-Up Sounder (BBUS) - certain
vehicles from 96MY
The BBUS was introduced into some markets from
96MY onwards and since the drive requirements are
different from the klaxon, the BBUS is market
programmable.
The BBUS has its own internal power supply. If the
vehicle battery or the BBUS is disconnected, the
BBUS will be triggered and will sound for
approximately 4.5 minutes.
To disconnect the BBUS, the ignition should be turned
on and then off. The BBUS connector must be
disconnected within 17 seconds of the ignition being
turned off or the BBUS will be triggered. When the
BBUS is sounding it can be cancelled by unlocking
the vehicle with the key or the remote handset only if it
is connected to the vehicle harness.

Yes I know how it works,you did not state in your original post that yours is a 1995.I was refering to the procedure applicable to the OP vehicle,which I understood to be a later model,which meant your statement was not correct.

 

[Rick-the-Pick]

Check your drivers door lock. It sounds to me like it has a problem with one of the three micro switches.
Probably just needs a clean.

 

[kieronf]

My car is generally never locked outside the house (shhhhhhhh - don't tell the insurance). When i want to start up, I jump in and press the right button with the key in the lock and off I go. The car will never lock itself, hours or even days after it has been parked

On those occasions when I do lock it and return to drive away, I still have to follow the right button process................................

 

[Druim]

My car is generally never locked outside the house (shhhhhhhh - don't tell the insurance). When i want to start up, I jump in and press the right button with the key in the lock and off I go. The car will never lock itself, hours or even days after it has been parked

On those occasions when I do lock it and return to drive away, I still have to follow the right button process................................

Ohh! Explains a lot, you lazy git Sync your key, promise it doesn't hurt...(if switches are okay that is)

 

[Druim]

Yes I know how it works,you did not state in your original post that yours is a 1995.I was refering to the procedure applicable to the OP vehicle,which I understood to be a later model,which meant your statement was not correct.

kieronf public profile, P38 4.6 HSE '96,

 

[JohnP38]

kieronf public profile, P38 4.6 HSE '96,

Aha,humble apologies,somehow my old mind had it as a later model.Damn, that busts the myth "That I am not always right,but never wrong"