Andy Land said:
I have this identical sounding noise on my Defender 90 on overrun and from my thread I have decided it's probably input / output bearing on the transfer box that I'll be checking first along with the front diff while I'm at it. Hope you find the problem but sounds like we have the same on different cars. :eek:
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Cheers for that AL. A match is looking more and more tempting these days!
 
kooky_guy said:
Cheers for that AL. A match is looking more and more tempting these days!
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I know what you mean Kooky ... mine has been like it since I bought it from a Landy restorer as a sold as seen px that they didn't have room for. They told me it was gearbox related. It doesn't affect the gear change in any way so I've learnt to live with it. Now I've finished most of the more important jobs I would like to sort this. James has given me a few pointers and looking at the ones I am capable of tackling myself first. Good Luck fella. :)
 
Ok, I'm very embarrassed - checked the front diff this morning and it took 1.5 litres. Thought I'd better just check the rear while I was at it - again took 1.5 litres - so both bone dry presumably.

Now the front is almost understandable as it does drip a teeny bit, but the rear is bone dry externally. Where's all my bleeding oil gone? It was only changed 6 months ago! Even my old Series III which leaked from every conceivable orifice never had this problem!

Anyway, suffice to say the noise is still there so I assume I've wrecked a bearing, but which one?

Wammers, you suggested the pinion bearing. Is there an easy way to check this without removing the props? Would you expect there to be any movement in it if it's noisy? I still don't know which diff it is making the noise. Knowing my luck, they're both probably knackered.

My indie suggested jacking all the wheels off the ground and listening to each diff while 'driving' it, but that does sound a little iffy. Plus I've only got two axle stands!

Assuming it is the pinion bearing, is it fixable or easier just to replace the whole diff? (I'm not sure if you need to upset the preload to change the bearing).
 
you can check end float freeplay in diff flange to see if brg has worn ,but if run low i would vremove diff check for scored lines on crown wheel pinion more evident on pinion as teeth get 3.5 times more contact than crown wheel ,this would mean another diff ,which would probably be better option with brgs i can explain how to do it simply but depends on your confidence
 
jamesmartin said:
you can check end float freeplay in diff flange to see if brg has worn ,but if run low i would vremove diff check for scored lines on crown wheel pinion more evident on pinion as teeth get 3.5 times more contact than crown wheel ,this would mean another diff ,which would probably be better option with brgs i can explain how to do it simply but depends on your confidence
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Hi James,

I'm sort of confident enough to remove the diffs - seems straightforwardish in Rave - track rod seems the hardest bit, although apparently the hubs can be a right buggr too. I'd really like to identify which one has a problem first though as I don't want to have to take them apart and put them back together twice. It's my only vehicle so I need to minimise downtime.

How do I check the end float?

Guy
 
do a test run with one prop off at time with heavy overrun,unless diff flange has play not rotational or feels notchy
 
Hmm. Just been to my local little (non landy specialist) garage and he put it up on his ramp on stands where I ran it while he listened underneath.

He's pretty sure it's the front n/s wheel bearing - basing this on the noise coming from the front left and some apparent graunchiness and noise (I couldn't hear anything) when he span the wheel by hand.

I'm not entirely convinced by this since going by the suggestions in this thread a dodgy wheel bearing ought to be noisy all the time and there is no lateral movement at all in it.

The noise has got worse and now does it at constant speed too but not as loudly as on overrun. I can't hear anything when accelerating still.

The front diff is quite close to that wheel so I'm guessing that any roughness in the diff would probly be transmitted to the wheel...?

I'm going to try and take the prop off this weekend - that really ought to confirm it I spose.

I'm amazed at how hard this seems to be to diagnose. I thought running it on the ramp would clinch it!
 
kooky_guy said:
Hmm. Just been to my local little (non landy specialist) garage and he put it up on his ramp on stands where I ran it while he listened underneath.

He's pretty sure it's the front n/s wheel bearing - basing this on the noise coming from the front left and some apparent graunchiness and noise (I couldn't hear anything) when he span the wheel by hand.

I'm not entirely convinced by this since going by the suggestions in this thread a dodgy wheel bearing ought to be noisy all the time and there is no lateral movement at all in it.

The noise has got worse and now does it at constant speed too but not as loudly as on overrun. I can't hear anything when accelerating still.

The front diff is quite close to that wheel so I'm guessing that any roughness in the diff would probly be transmitted to the wheel...?

I'm going to try and take the prop off this weekend - that really ought to confirm it I spose.

I'm amazed at how hard this seems to be to diagnose. I thought running it on the ramp would clinch it!
Click to expand...

I've got the O/S front wheel bearing going on the Transit, it's been hard to track down, it's louder on the overrun due, I think, to weight transfer to the front loading it up, it's also louder on left hand curves and the sound disappears on rights.
 
kooky_guy said:
Hmm. Just been to my local little (non landy specialist) garage and he put it up on his ramp on stands where I ran it while he listened underneath.

He's pretty sure it's the front n/s wheel bearing - basing this on the noise coming from the front left and some apparent graunchiness and noise (I couldn't hear anything) when he span the wheel by hand.

I'm not entirely convinced by this since going by the suggestions in this thread a dodgy wheel bearing ought to be noisy all the time and there is no lateral movement at all in it.

The noise has got worse and now does it at constant speed too but not as loudly as on overrun. I can't hear anything when accelerating still.

The front diff is quite close to that wheel so I'm guessing that any roughness in the diff would probly be transmitted to the wheel...?

I'm going to try and take the prop off this weekend - that really ought to confirm it I spose.

I'm amazed at how hard this seems to be to diagnose. I thought running it on the ramp would clinch it!
Click to expand...

It would, if he had used a mechanics stethoscope. Still sounds like a diff pinion bearing to me. The note changes as the crown wheel starts to drive the pinion, gets worse as it wears and eventually like yours, shows at constant speed. Maybe wrong of course, but i don't think so. A wheel bearing would be there all the time and just get louder with speed increase and as it wears. If it was a front one it would change pitch as you turned the wheels.
 
wammers said:
It would, if he had used a mechanics stethoscope. Still sounds like a diff pinion bearing to me. The note changes as the crown wheel starts to drive the pinion, gets worse as it wears and eventually like yours, shows at constant speed. Maybe wrong of course, but i don't think so. A wheel bearing would be there all the time and just get louder with speed increase and as it wears. If it was a front one it would change pitch as you turned the wheels.
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Hi Wammers,

Unfortunately he didn't use a stethoscope - I kind of expected him to have one, but I suppose it's only a small garage. I would have preferred to be under it myself while someone else was driving it, but never mind.

Pinion bearing is still my favourite for this, especially considering both diffs had no oil in them. It doesn't change pitch when I turn the wheels.

I'll see what it does when I take the prop off, although I have a feeling that won't be conclusive either!

Speaking of removing the prop - I assume I just have to lift both wheels on one side in order to be able to rotate the prop...?

Guy

Guy
 
kooky_guy said:
Hi Wammers,

Unfortunately he didn't use a stethoscope - I kind of expected him to have one, but I suppose it's only a small garage. I would have preferred to be under it myself while someone else was driving it, but never mind.

Pinion bearing is still my favourite for this, especially considering both diffs had no oil in them. It doesn't change pitch when I turn the wheels.

I'll see what it does when I take the prop off, although I have a feeling that won't be conclusive either!

Speaking of removing the prop - I assume I just have to lift both wheels on one side in order to be able to rotate the prop...?

Guy

Guy
Click to expand...


You should be able to rotate prop with just one front wheel raised, but raising front and rear makes it easier, providing you don't have the hand brake on of course. Chock the wheels.
 
Ok, I'm probably just being a complete drongo, but I can't get to any of the bolts well enough to undo them on the front prop, especially at the transfer box end.

Is there a special socket or something for prop bolts? I could probably undo the front with a pair of spanners, but I can't get a spanner to the rear ones because the crossmember is in the way.

I'm remembering why I got the garage to change it last time now. Grrr.

I noticed on the way home last night that if I popped the car into neutral while slowing down, it made no difference whatsoever to the whine (more of a dive bomber howl now) - does that prove/disprove the pinion bearing theory, or is it meaningless as it's still driving the transfer box internals?

I really need to get this fixed, but I don't want to replace the wrong part!!

Waaaah. Where're my matches...?
 
kooky_guy said:
Looks like I need one of these

LAND ROVER PROPSHAFT TOOL 1/2" DRIVE | eBay UK

Ok, giving up for now. I'm tending more towards the wheel bearing now as it does seem to grumble slightly when spinning the wheel, although it's very hard to detect...

Think I'll go and break the lawnmower now instead.
Click to expand...

Those do make it easier but you can do it with two spanners. Obviously you need to rotate the prop to get them into the right position as the UJ closes the gaps if in the wrong position. I just work on a flat surface with the hand brake off and push the Landy with my foot on the tyre until it gets to the right position!
 
Andy Land said:
Those do make it easier but you can do it with two spanners. Obviously you need to rotate the prop to get them into the right position as the UJ closes the gaps if in the wrong position. I just work on a flat surface with the hand brake off and push the Landy with my foot on the tyre until it gets to the right position!
Click to expand...

Can't get to the transfer box end with a spanner because of the gearbox crossmember and just couldn't get my spanners into the yoke on the front one.
Ah well, I greased all my UJs and props while I was under there so at least I achieved something!

Still no further forward with my noise though.
 
kooky_guy said:
Can't get to the transfer box end with a spanner because of the gearbox crossmember and just couldn't get my spanners into the yoke on the front one.
Ah well, I greased all my UJs and props while I was under there so at least I achieved something!

Still no further forward with my noise though.
Click to expand...


You need a 9/16" socket a short extension and a ratchet.
 
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