L

landyman2005

New Member
decided to check my autobox oil level and it took 2litres:eek: anyway when it started to run out of the filler the stuff that came out was brown not cherry red... question is do i drain all the oil out and take my chances with the whole potential crud in the valves issues that can occur, or just leave it alone....the rangey is a 2000my and has a full service history from the main stealer.
 
not doing it is as bad as leaving it were you checcking the oil in neutral with the engine running?
for what it takes you will be supprised by the change in how the boxes changes gear
 
i followed the instructions as per rave, engine cold ,cycle the gears check it with engine running. topping it up improved it so i think i might take my chances with an oil change. oh and its got 147k on the clock
 
I have read a few threads and done some searching too... has anyone done a write up on how to do this job, also any special tools/pumps etc required to do this job?
 
you will need 27 mm torx bit 10mm socket sump bolts 30mm spanner open ended for dipstick tube,,once sump off undo 3 x torx screw holding filter watch out 2 x oring filter to block ,pick up pipe to filter,measure roughly what you take out and put same back in check level
 
jamesmartin said:
you will need 27 mm torx bit 10mm socket sump bolts 30mm spanner open ended for dipstick tube,,once sump off undo 3 x torx screw holding filter watch out 2 x oring filter to block ,pick up pipe to filter,measure roughly what you take out and put same back in check level
Click to expand...
Wasn't planning to change the filter...but maybe you know something I don't- is it worth doing? from what I can tell it just a strainer more than a filter???

Also I don't have a dipstick, does this mean I wont need that 30mm spanner?

When I refill how do I get the new oil in do I need a pump or something?
 
Canyon said:
Wasn't planning to change the filter...but maybe you know something I don't- is it worth doing? from what I can tell it just a strainer more than a filter???

Also I don't have a dipstick, does this mean I wont need that 30mm spanner?

When I refill how do I get the new oil in do I need a pump or something?
Click to expand...

Motor factors here do a large metal syringe for gearbox filling. You will not need the 30mm spanner. Filter is worth doing, it's an incredibly fine metal mesh filter. Clean the magnet in the sump while you have it off.
When re-filling, fill until oil starts to run out, then start the engine and move the gear lever through the gears, with the engine still running continue to fill until the oil runs out of the filler. Replace plug before stopping the engine. Should take about 5 litres.:)
 
Forgot to ask about the transfer box. Does this have a filter? How do I check level? Is there a DIY guide?
Tia.
 
Taking my dhse for a recon gearbox on tuesday, £1180 + VAT plus transport(but had quotes of up to £2000). Trans filter kit + 5 ltrs of atf ? £40 - £50?? I know now what i should have done!!!! .Its one of those things that you keep meaning to do, but never get round to it. I changed mine when it was way way to late and now i am paying the price. Take it from me, LISTEN TO THE ADVICE AND WHEN YOU DECIED TO CHANGE IT CHANGE IT. Get the oil and filter kit,a few spanners and a filling tool and do it as soon as you can. It is an easy job with the right tools so don't delay or join the mug club with me!!!
 
phil13 said:
Taking my dhse for a recon gearbox on tuesday, £1180 + VAT plus transport(but had quotes of up to £2000). Trans filter kit + 5 ltrs of atf ? £40 - £50?? I know now what i should have done!!!! .Its one of those things that you keep meaning to do, but never get round to it. I changed mine when it was way way to late and now i am paying the price. Take it from me, LISTEN TO THE ADVICE AND WHEN YOU DECIED TO CHANGE IT CHANGE IT. Get the oil and filter kit,a few spanners and a filling tool and do it as soon as you can. It is an easy job with the right tools so don't delay or join the mug club with me!!!
Click to expand...

Make sure all gear selects work when you get it back. Bought mine already with / had recon box in but didnt realise till a month after that it wont let me select 1st in low range, it struggles (with a bit of persuasion) to go in 1st in high, but when I throw it over via the "H" into low, can only get 2nd + above, bacause the gear lever wont go any furthur back..
 
thanks for the advice, when i got my dhse it had apparently had a replacement box fitted too, ok there i thought (wrong again) The dhse is going to a indie landrover workshop/gearbox specialist so hopefully they will know their stuff, I do take your point though and will check it out carefully when i go to pick it up.
Cheers Phil..................
 
Datatek said:
Motor factors here do a large metal syringe for gearbox filling. You will not need the 30mm spanner. Filter is worth doing, it's an incredibly fine metal mesh filter. Clean the magnet in the sump while you have it off.
When re-filling, fill until oil starts to run out, then start the engine and move the gear lever through the gears, with the engine still running continue to fill until the oil runs out of the filler. Replace plug before stopping the engine. Should take about 5 litres.:)
Click to expand...

Just performing some prep work before I carry out the fluid changes...
I had to remove a plastic tray with a plastic pillow in it before i could see the AT pan. I found the drain port which looks like a 5 or 6mm allen key, and the fill port which looks like a massive nut with a small bump in the centre. Maybe I will need that big spanner after all. All of this area was bone dry no leaks or drips.
I also had to clean up heavily gunked up fill and drain ports on the diffs. I was wondering why there was so much gunk around these big grub screws. Maybe they are leaking?? but strangley nothing on the drive??
When I do the diff oil changes, i might use a bit of sealant or something- can anyone recommend something?


Worried about how i'm going to fill the front diff as the anti roll bar seems to be in the way.
One thing I did notice was a small drip from the transfer box? liquid was red.
I also noticed that it had some sort of instant gasket from where 2 surfaces are mated together. Just wondered if this was normal.
 
Canyon said:
Just performing some prep work before I carry out the fluid changes...
I had to remove a plastic tray with a plastic pillow in it before i could see the AT pan. I found the drain port which looks like a 5 or 6mm allen key, and the fill port which looks like a massive nut with a small bump in the centre. Maybe I will need that big spanner after all. All of this area was bone dry no leaks or drips.
I also had to clean up heavily gunked up fill and drain ports on the diffs. I was wondering why there was so much gunk around these big grub screws. Maybe they are leaking?? but strangley nothing on the drive??
When I do the diff oil changes, i might use a bit of sealant or something- can anyone recommend something?


Worried about how i'm going to fill the front diff as the anti roll bar seems to be in the way.
One thing I did notice was a small drip from the transfer box? liquid was red.
I also noticed that it had some sort of instant gasket from where 2 surfaces are mated together. Just wondered if this was normal.
Click to expand...

Hylomar is best for diff plugs. But silicone will do, make sure threads are clean and dry before you put it on. Transfer box uses ATF. Transfer box and diffs are sealed with silicone. So a bit squeezing out is normal.
 
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