[philvy]

Series 3 with 200Di

cat**** dripping from flywheel crossmember. GB was low on oil, filled up, level went down a bit after some days, but not as much as the crossmember was dripping. No leak on OD/TB (no signifanct one anyway).
Drips when stationary, not sure if out of flywheel case tho.
Just drained the oil (30min ago) and cleaned the drain plug and thread. Filled up again... We'll see.

Two questions I have:
What sealing washer should be on the GB drain plug? I've found a felt one on lrseries, but mine is copper (it used to seal alright...)
Where can it come from but front oil seal GB (is there one?), drain plug GB, selectors GB? It cant be my always wet overdrive, can it? How would the oil get to the flywheel crossmember from there? (Furthermore, after I filled up my GB the dripping became clean oil... )

Any help much appreciated (esp by my landlord )

Second note: Is it possible, with some fiddling, to make the GB Xmember bolt on? (S3 109)

 

[G-man]

question 2 answer 1 i think some military series vehicles had bolt on gearbox crossmembers

question 2 answer 2 theoretically yes but you should strengthen where you put the bolt holes (cut one side of each chassis rail out and weld tubes in to stop the chassis being crushed by the bolts that hold the new crossmember

question 1 answer 1 does the gearbox breather run into the crossmember?

question 1 answer 2 a copper washer is acceptable but will require replacement each time you take the plug out

 

[philvy]

question 2 answer 1 i think some military series vehicles had bolt on gearbox crossmembers

I meant retrofit, as I cant afford a new chassis at the moment...

question 2 answer 2 theoretically yes but you should strengthen where you put the bolt holes (cut one side of each chassis rail out and weld tubes in to stop the chassis being crushed by the bolts that hold the new crossmember

Good idea, thanks.

question 1 answer 1 does the gearbox breather run into the crossmember?

What gearbox breather? I thought S3 GB don't have a breather. Where is it supposed to be?

question 1 answer 2 a copper washer is acceptable but will require replacement each time you take the plug out

better I dont tell the washer that... I've used it three times, and it started dripping long after the last drain (more than 4k mi, more than 3mths)

 

[oxides]

Copper washers can be reused but may need annealing occasionally - take off any scoring with some emery paper but keep the faces parallel, heat up to dull red and cool slowly. Replace if the hole in the middle gets too big, the washer gets too thin or it gets too chewed up.

 

[jamesmartin]

are you loosing clutch fluid ,breathers on topof g/box ,used copper washers will be alright if not perfect,front brg housong in gear box contains input shaft seal and gasket ,and is held at bottom with 3x screw they often loose threads ,gearbox bolts are whitworth

 

[philvy]

are you loosing clutch fluid

usually yes, not the last few weeks

breathers on topof g/box

Thanks

front brg housong in gear box contains input shaft seal and gasket ,and is held at bottom with 3x screw they often loose threads ,gearbox bolts are whitworth

You mean the bearing housing works loose? It's a GB out job anyway, innit?
So chances are it will start ****ing out really much soon, or will it stay moderate?

 

[lynall]

Breather is a little hole in the round tin cover on top of the box just behind the gearlever.
The transfer box breaths through slots into the gearbox and uses the same breather.
My first thought was clutch or brake fluid.


Lynall

 

[philvy]

Well, I screwed in the plug in the bottom of the flywheel housing, to make sure it's coming from there or not.

Let's hope it doesnt... If it does it's a GB out job anyway. Any estimates on taking GB out? I know floors are 10min, O/D 15-25min, but didn't do the rest yet (worked from the front usually:engine)

Cheers and thanks for all the suggestions so far.
Phil

 

[jamesmartin]

its only a matter of getting seat box out ,especially those in corner with seat belt bracket

 

[philvy]

its only a matter of getting seat box out ,especially those in corner with seat belt bracket

Sounds like a reason for the new electric impact wrench i wanted for some time...

 

[lynall]

Cordless impact wrenchs are the best thing since sliced bread
I had an old snap one not much cop, sold it and bought an ingersoll rand 19.2 volt jobby great tool, makes all the small jobs so much faster.
Ir one has a 3 year garauntee, snap on only 1 year, not sure on the cheaper machine mart ones but its always the batteries that ruins anything cheap cordless


Lynall

 

[philvy]

Cordless impact wrenchs are the best thing since sliced bread
I had an old snap one not much cop, sold it and bought an ingersoll rand 19.2 volt jobby great tool, makes all the small jobs so much faster.
Ir one has a 3 year garauntee, snap on only 1 year, not sure on the cheaper machine mart ones but its always the batteries that ruins anything cheap cordless


Lynall

Just had a look on fleabay, a 230V one is 120 quid. Dont have that kind of money at the moment...


@all
What would you renew while it's out? Rear oil seal GB, Maybe the transmission seals while I'm at it or is it more work (and easy to do lateron)?

 

[jamesmartin]

a set of those special rounded nut socket would be more use 10mm ,11mm,7/16,1/2 13mm,i would do both out put seals and front cover seal and gasket ,check layshaft bolt 16mm 5/8 for tightness they do come loose,loctite bottom 3x bolt dont over tightrn use 4x nut at top and middle to hold cover secure as they are well held

 

[philvy]

Right, flywheel housing it is. Just unscrewed the wading plug and there it was...
Still, not enough to make it serious yet, but my parking space looks like it's occupied by a land rover (I'm the only one in a big radius...)


Anything why I should not just take my loud ratchet (angle grinder) on the seat base bolts? I'd rather use new ones anyway.

 

[jamesmartin]

no good idea but wont fit in corner

 

[philvy]

no good idea but wont fit in corner

My Dremel will...

 

[lynall]

I dont know what engine you have but if its anything pre 300tdi the rear main is a real pain in the arse to do, sump off, rear main, flywheel and housing, the seal is 5 piece kit.
When you put the new bolts in either use stainless or just wax them as you fit them and wax again once fitted, real dirty but makes them easy to undo next time and you just know theres going to be a next time!
When i did my s2 my clutch i took the engine out but still had to lift floor plates to gain access to flywheel bolts, made everything a doddle to get at no laying on your back.
Edit i lied i think its just the series engines that have the many piece seal.


Lynall

 

[philvy]

Riiight, just checked the breather and everything, it's definately coming from the front seal

Anyone knows about sliding back the GB with tranny to access the seal housing? I think it can be done for a clutch change, so a seal change too?

 

[lynall]

As said above if its a series engine you wont be doing the rear main seal in situ unless you are a super hero, i had a job with my engine on the garage floor.
Hardest bit is fitting the little garter spring.


Lynall

 

[philvy]

As said above if its a series engine you wont be doing the rear main seal in situ unless you are a super hero, i had a job with my engine on the garage floor.
Hardest bit is fitting the little garter spring.


Lynall

... what?

I'm talking about GEARBOX FRONT OIL SEAL!

No engine, no rear oil seal, but gearbox (the thing behind the engine)

I'd have to take out the front seal housing, change seal and pre-attach gasket, then fit. Any ideas on that? (again, GEARBOX, not engine!)