[capstar1]

Searched the forum regarding my problem on my 97 2.5 dse which is lumpy running or misfire type of thing at about 1000-1500 rpm when driving. when I'm driving slowly in second or third gear it feels like its missing.
It never cuts out and it revs freely and accelerates no problem when I put the foot down.
I've changed the in tank pump and the leak off pipes as they seemed wet. Added injector cleaner and started using the super diesel if you like thinking it would solve a sticky injector problem.
Service was done in January with a new fuel filter fitted. Would it be worth changing the filter again?
Any pointers would be appreciated thanks
Roy

 

[jonbill]

Try Wynn's "dry fuel". worked for nisbeam.

 

[jonbill]

see this:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p36-dse-misfire-cured-140630.html

 

[capstar1]

Try Wynn's "dry fuel". worked for nisbeam.

Hi yes I saw your post on this and tried it in a 3/4 tank of fuel. Ive done about 50 miles but no difference.
Want to try everything that I can do myself before I have to take it to someone.

 

[dogsbody]

Living in Cumbernauld and owning a faulty Range Rover, poor lad.

You could try a new filter, it's a cheap enough item and if it doesn't work you'll use one at the next service anyway but I think your more likely to find that you've got problems with MAF or No4 injector or crankshaft sensor. It might be worth investing a couple of quid and getting it on a Testbook or similar even just to ruleout the obvious.

Or if your really lucky DATATEK might take an interest and help you out.

 

[wammers]

If your putting an additive like injector cleaner in the fuel, wait until it is quit low for maximum effect. Putting an additive in three quarters of a tank is like spitting in a river.

 

[capstar1]

Living in Cumbernauld and owning a faulty Range Rover, poor lad.

You could try a new filter, it's a cheap enough item and if it doesn't work you'll use one at the next service anyway but I think your more likely to find that you've got problems with MAF or No4 injector or crankshaft sensor. It might be worth investing a couple of quid and getting it on a Testbook or similar even just to ruleout the obvious.

Or if your really lucky DATATEK might take an interest and help you out.

Thanks for your sympathy We are a breed apart. Thanks
I'm going to do the filter so thats another cheapo out of the way, but I missed the maf sensor. Will check that if I can find it. I'll get check done on it as soon as I get a chance
Thanks

 

[dogsbody]

Thanks for your sympathy We are a breed apart. Thanks
I'm going to do the filter so thats another cheapo out of the way, but I missed the maf sensor. Will check that if I can find it. I'll get check done on it as soon as I get a chance
Thanks

The MAF sensor is in the air input pipe. It gets heated up to a ridiculous temperature then the electronics measure how much electrical power it sucks to maintain this temperature as the air rushes past it. You can clean the sensor CAREFULLY using carb cleaner or spray alcohol. Don't use anything that leaves something behind - like WD40!!!!

 

[capstar1]

The MAF sensor is in the air input pipe. It gets heated up to a ridiculous temperature then the electronics measure how much electrical power it sucks to maintain this temperature as the air rushes past it. You can clean the sensor CAREFULLY using carb cleaner or spray alcohol. Don't use anything that leaves something behind - like WD40!!!!

Is it possible that I dont have a MAF sensor as I dont remember seeing it on the pipe when I was checking the air filter?

 

[Datatek]

Is it possible that I dont have a MAF sensor as I dont remember seeing it on the pipe when I was checking the air filter?

Pretty sure there is no MAF sensor on a pre EGR 97 DSE.
Get the codes read, it could be the needle lift sensor, crank sensor or any one of a number of other things. Check the pipe from the rear of the manifold to the little sensor on the fuel filter housing is in place and not split, it shouldn't cause your problem but no harm in checking.

 

[capstar1]

Pretty sure there is no MAF sensor on a pre EGR 97 DSE.
Get the codes read, it could be the needle lift sensor, crank sensor or any one of a number of other things. Check the pipe from the rear of the manifold to the little sensor on the fuel filter housing is in place and not split, it shouldn't cause your problem but no harm in checking.

Was out this morning and changed the last two leak off pipes. The one from the No1 injector to the FP and the one from the FP to the fuel filter housing. They seemed very loose. Checked the reading for the in tank fuel pump at the relay and that seems ok. Need to check that it is delivering fuel to the filter as soon as I can grab an assistant.
There is no MAF sensor on the air pipe at the filter housing like it shows on the manual.
I am going to get the codes read as soon as I can get some free time.

 

[wammers]

There is no MAF sensor on pre EGR motors.

 

[TAKdriver]

Searched the forum regarding my problem on my 97 2.5 dse which is lumpy running or misfire type of thing at about 1000-1500 rpm when driving. when I'm driving slowly in second or third gear it feels like its missing.
It never cuts out and it revs freely and accelerates no problem when I put the foot down.
I've changed the in tank pump and the leak off pipes as they seemed wet. Added injector cleaner and started using the super diesel if you like thinking it would solve a sticky injector problem.
Service was done in January with a new fuel filter fitted. Would it be worth changing the filter again?
Any pointers would be appreciated thanks
Roy

Capstar
I had replied to your pm before I read your thread.
Your motor is the same vintage as mine which deals with one of the issues. Only thing I need to find out is if I have the software package SM007 which looks like the package which would be needed for your problem.
How urgent is this because I'm kind of tight for time over the next week.

 

[Datatek]

Capstar
I had replied to your pm before I read your thread.
Your motor is the same vintage as mine which deals with one of the issues. Only thing I need to find out is if I have the software package SM007 which looks like the package which would be needed for your problem.
How urgent is this because I'm kind of tight for time over the next week.

TAK, if you bought the single vehicle Faultmate, it will not work on Capstar's vehicle, it's locked to your VIN

 

[capstar1]

Capstar
I had replied to your pm before I read your thread.
Your motor is the same vintage as mine which deals with one of the issues. Only thing I need to find out is if I have the software package SM007 which looks like the package which would be needed for your problem.
How urgent is this because I'm kind of tight for time over the next week.

Thanks TAK I'm in the same boat as yourself regarding time. Working up til friday and then away to the caravan for the start of the season for the weekend. I was hoping to take the P38 but its not critical. Might just take it as Ive never driven it more than 5 miles.
I read in another thread about the possibility of the tank vent pipe being blocked so I undid the cap a bit last night and heard a fair bit of air being drawn in so I'l take it for a spin this evening and see if that makes a difference.
I'll contact you next week to see if you have any spare time and read up a bit on the software you have

Roy

 

[capstar1]

Loosening fuel cap made no differerce. Drove like a maniac up to halfords to get some injector cleaner and its great but drive it like someone who is on a major fuel saving mission and its back to its usual misfire like running.
Spoke to a mobile tuning and diagnostics driver at halfords and he said that he did not have the equipment to help me but advised me that the No4 injector is sometimes a problem. He also pointed out to me that my engine management light did not light up when I turned the ignition key on and suspected someone may have removed the bulb.
I stupidly missed that when I bought it

 

[jonbill]

you should get those fault codes read, but meanwhile might be worth checking everything is secure:
exhaust and inlet manifolds done up, likewise pipes to inlet from turbo and from air filter to manifold.
check the map / iat sensors are connected (if present) and connection from injector 4 well seated, fip to loom plug done up too.

I can imagine some of them things being loose would give you a lumpy idle.

 

[capstar1]

It was time to go to the caravan this weekend to Aberfeldy. Only 60 miles but a lot of the journey through winding hilly gorgeous country side with no mobile phone signal in a lot of the glens.
I nervously started off on my journey. First 20 miles or so is dual carriageway and as I became more confident it sat quite happily at at 70mph. Through the wee small bendy roads I horsed on and arrived in Aberfeldy with a grin on my face fromm ear to ear.
It never stuttered or faultered once. It drove like a dream.
Used it on one short journey and gave a short missfire but fine again. Drove home today and ran perfectly
Things I did to cure my problem at least for now was
Replace in tank pump
Replace all leak off pipes
Removed, wiped and refitted all electrical connections at fip and fuel filter
Used a total of three bottles of injector cleaner and 1 bottle of Wynns dry fuel
I still plan on changing the fuel filter and getting the codes read

Reset the trip computer before setting off and checked it when I got home and it was averageing 28.6mpg which I am chuffed about
Yipeeeee