[ATA8]

Hi as I’m new new member please be understanding as I’m new to all this forum stuff!!
I have a 1998 p38 2.5 dse Auto which when the engine is up to normal running temperature
And only on a hot a day (not many off them a year I know) when I floor it and make it rev high around 3500-3600+ rpm I lose all power, if I keep my foot planted it just keeps dieing take my foot off and put it on again it come back to normal
It’s like it loses all boost pressure or something it is ok if you drive it normally pulls like a train and don’t miss a beat, have check all pipes, intercooler, etc
Only happens when it’s hot on a hot day
Must be someone out there who’s had the same problem or knows how to fix it

 

[SpudH]

Just two ideas.
Does the injector light come on when you lose power? This is a common enough problem. But it is more common to happen on light throttle or on the overrun. It is sometimes linked to a failed/failing sender pump in the diesel tank.
Another idea is that the turbo wastegate might be faulty and opening too early but I haven't heard of this much

 

[ATA8]

The injector light does not come on, as soon as you lift off and put your foot down agian it's fine, Wastegate ? may try and put a vac gauge in the line to see if the boost pressure drops off

Thanks ATA8

 

[tomcatrr]

Hi friends!

I had made a search and finally, I found someone with the same problem ( but not the solution).

About one month ago, I found that my 99 DSE(EGR and MAF) lose power also with hot days, and not when he is hot.

I search in the net, and I was thinking in the MAF, and finally in the pump lift in the the tank (the current give me about 0,9 A, and for what I read it should be 4.5A).

Yesterday in the Iberico meeting, I had a chance to have a diagnose in the DSE with a Rovacom unit.
I found 3 problems: Engine temperature ECU was 0ºC, and intake air temperature -38 ºC and also some difference with the RPM off the engine and injector nº4, and with road test, the Nº4 give sometimes 0 rpm.
The readings also inform that the Turbo(to check the wastegate was stuck), reveal that he is not new, but not the reason for being so slow and sluggish.

Could the injector nº4 and ECU sensor be only my problem?
I have a friend with same problem and he also have injector nº4 and intake air temperature -38ºC syndrome. ( it was 35ºC).
So I ask to the experts should I also need to change my MAF(who had the air intake temperature sensor in it)
Thanks.

 

[SpudH]

Ignore the -38deg issue, its a legacy from the older P38's which have Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors fitted under the intake manifold used to calculate air density. Your MAF equiped model doesn't have that sensor so it returns -38 as a default.

The engine temperature returning 0deg is a problem, the ecu will stay on the cold fuel map which will cause bad running so you need to change the temp sensor.

Unfortunately its the same for the no.4 sensor, you've got an intermittent fault. The Diesel ECU (EDC) compares the crank sensor reading with the no.4 sensor. If they don't match it defaults to the crank sensor reading but may fault into a safe mode. If the crank sensor fails too (which can happen) the car will cut out.

 

[tomcatrr]

Ignore the -38deg issue, its a legacy from the older P38's which have Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors fitted under the intake manifold used to calculate air density. Your MAF equiped model doesn't have that sensor so it returns -38 as a default.
...

Thanks SpudH, for your fast reply.

So I will buy a new injector Nº4, and also the engine temp sensor, and "forget" the IAT .
Are all the injector nº4 the same? From 94-02?
Can I search in the BMW parts?

And once again thanks.

 

[SpudH]

Thanks SpudH, for your fast reply.

So I will buy a new injector Nº4, and also the engine temp sensor, and "forget" the IAT .
Are all the injector nº4 the same? From 94-02?
Can I search in the BMW parts?

And once again thanks.

The sensor is the same but there are slightly different plugs out there. Just keep an eye on it, it was as simple as cutting off a tab for me.

 

[wammers]

The sensor is the same but there are slightly different plugs out there. Just keep an eye on it, it was as simple as cutting off a tab for me.

According to Famous Four there are two, one up to chassis WA409249
£139.00 plus vat. And one from then on at £185.00 plus vat. Can't think that it's just the plug that changed.

 

[tomcatrr]

Thanks guys.

If anyone in the future have the same problem:
Until WA409249 STC2290
Past WA409249 STC4218.

When I found BOSH or BMW part number, I will share with you.

 

[SpudH]

According to Famous Four there are two, one up to chassis WA409249
£139.00 plus vat. And one from then on at £185.00 plus vat. Can't think that it's just the plug that changed.

Jeez, thats some difference in price.

Can't see how much of a difference there can be in the sensor output though, it either measures needle lift or not or am I over simplifying. Maybe the later ones are designed to last longer (or shorter) or maybe LR have just set the price because they can.
I'm pretty sure I have the correct one fitted for the last year. I got it from TT Automotive and had to give them my model year and didn't need to alter it but when the first one failed I replaced it with a scrap one and had to cut a lug off to make it fit. It ran perfectly until I stupidly caught the sensor wire under the manifold on refitting it for some reason or other:doh:

I'd be interested to see how many part no.s Bosch have for it. The EDC didn't change much.

Does that chassis no. correspond to the change to EGR?

 

[wammers]

Jeez, thats some difference in price.

Can't see how much of a difference there can be in the sensor output though, it either measures needle lift or not or am I over simplifying. Maybe the later ones are designed to last longer (or shorter) or maybe LR have just set the price because they can.
I'm pretty sure I have the correct one fitted for the last year. I got it from TT Automotive and had to give them my model year and didn't need to alter it but when the first one failed I replaced it with a scrap one and had to cut a lug off to make it fit. It ran perfectly until I stupidly caught the sensor wire under the manifold on refitting it for some reason or other:doh:

I'd be interested to see how many part no.s Bosch have for it. The EDC didn't change much.

Does that chassis no. correspond to the change to EGR?

Could be i don't know, not gone into it. The only thing i know is that mine is the dearer one. Just my bloody luck. But i think i have seen them a lot less than that elsewhere.

 

[jonasserra]

It pays visiting your BMW "brothers" forums...(bimmerforums.co.uk)
Take a look at this doc
http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktio...hmentId=658025

I have also to buy the electronic one...the cheapper one

 

[wammers]

Up to 1998 WA 409249 STC 2290. After that WA 409250 and on STC 4218. Only thing i can recommed is DON'T buy them from Rimmers.

 

[dannys]

First thing I would do is replace the top turbo hose, going from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. It gets soft, Especially when warm, and if your turbo is not new anymore the suction from the cylinders may come a tad bit earlier than the boost, causing the hose to collapse and choke the engine.

 

[wammers]

Ok as you rev the engine make sure the hose to the manifold is pressurised and is not collapsing. If it is collapsing you either have a delamination inside one of the turbo hoses or the intercooler is blocked. If it is pressurised look at the MAP sensor on top of the fuel filter check the pressure pipe to that is not broken or cracked. Clean the electrical connections to it. This sensor increases fuel flow as turbo pressure increases. If it is not working that could be your problem. If the number four injector is failing at high rpm then the engine will drop to safe mode and limit engine revs to avoid damage. Try cleaning connections to that. That also could be your problem.

 

[tomcatrr]

Hi friends, thanks for all the sugestion.

I "Think" the turbo hose, is a little "smooth", next weekend I will remove them and take a look inside.
The MAP, I already clean it (contacts) and I blew into the tube and the pressure did not stop, it's normal? (hope you understand what a I mean).

The injector nº 4 is a "little" expensive.... but I what can I do.

Yesterday, after driving the car with +- 31º C in the day, in the night it seems that he was a racing car....:doh:, so my friends, it´s not a coincidence.
Also, running it in the night the MPG go up (Metric units goes down - 0,3l in only 20 kms).

In fifth gear he really seems that perhaps he goes in safe mode: If I try to past +- 110 km/h I feel like the engine don´t have fuel or is cutting, but he don´t loose RPM.
Also strange is, when I a need to refuel him I can ear the air go in down (vacum), when I open the diesel cap, don´t remember that.
I know my lift pump, "only" gives 0,9 A, and for what I read here it should give 4.5 A.

thanks

 

[tomcatrr]

Hi, after new "used" MAP, the RR change.

Put it seems that the nº 4, must be changed also. I checked it ad only have 85 ohms, a new one have 100 ohms.