[Matt_TD4]

OK, since buying the freelander a few days ago, i have come across 2 problems. The first one is one of the keys. When inserted in the ignition barrel, it will turn all the electrics on, but will not turn the engine over. I know this is a problem with the key, as my spare key work every time.
Can the key be recoded without going to a dealer?

Problem number 2 is, when turning the wheels to full lock, there is a loudish noise, and the traction control starts going mental. Also shudders quite a bit when driving off with full lock engaged. The power steering pump is new and the fluid is at the correct level.

Does anyone have any advice or experience with either of these 2 issues? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance, Matt

 

[thrasher]

battery in key fob flat????
vcu on the way out?????

 

[Matt_TD4]

The fob has nothing to do with the key?

Good call on the Viscous Coupling though! Will check it out.

Thanks for the info

 

[freebiker]

Are all your tyres the same size? At the same wear levels? Make sure the less worns are at the rear of the vehicle.

Do you know which wheels lose traction as you turn on full lock? i.e. they'll 'skip' i assume?

 

[Matt_TD4]

I just went for another quick spin there. Couldn't get the traction control to come on this time. But it feels like its the rears that are skipping. All the wheels and tyres are the same size/ brand. 1 front tyre is new though.

I will do the tip ex test on the VCU later to see if there is any difference.

 

[freebiker]

I just went for another quick spin there. Couldn't get the traction control to come on this time. But it feels like its the rears that are skipping. All the wheels and tyres are the same size/ brand. 1 front tyre is new though.

I will do the tip ex test on the VCU later to see if there is any difference.

With the freelanders VCU/IRD a single tyre shouldn't be replaced on it's own. Is the wear between the tyres noticable? The newer tyres should always go to the back as it needs the rears to have the larger circumference so they're rotating speed is slower.

Should at a minimum replace two tyres at a time if the wear is noticeable.

 

[Missing Link]

Almost definitely the VCU. Get the propshaft off A.S.A.P before you do severe (expensive) damage.

Quite right that the fob has nothing to do with the immobiliser. It would seem that there is something wrong with the transponder module in one of the key heads. Several companies advertise that they can provide replacement encoder keys although I am not sure how good they are. The RAVE disk goes to some length about the key programming procedure including that they are only available via Germany.

 

[Matt_TD4]

Not really noticeable at all to be honest, old tyre got a split in it.

 

[Matt_TD4]

@Missing link, thanks for the info. Appreciate it! Tried to download the Rave disc, but couldn't get it to open.

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

I just went for another quick spin there. Couldn't get the traction control to come on this time. But it feels like its the rears that are skipping. All the wheels and tyres are the same size/ brand. 1 front tyre is new though.

I will do the tip ex test on the VCU later to see if there is any difference.

CHECK THE ROLLING CIRCUMFERENCE OF ALL THE TYRES!!!!!!!

I had a motor where, although all the tyres were all the same (sic) size, one was 23mm smaller in diameter and would pull to the left (a Mitchellin) in an uncontrollable manner - a bit like having a flat NSF.

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

please also consider http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/vcu-torque-test-results-109486.html

 

[Matt_TD4]

Thanks for the info MHM. Will check that also.

Matt

 

[para1966]

The key issue is more likely to be that a previous has lost a key so bought a spare and had it cut, but not got it coded to the ECU at a dealers.
So you can happily open up and turn the ignition on but not start it.
Costs approx £120 to get a replacement key and have it coded at a dealers.

 

[Matt_TD4]

Hi Para, strange as it may sound, its the replacement key that works fine. Its the original key that looks to be buggered!

Quick update...
Checked the VCU thoroughly today, and it looks to be in perfect working order. However, the bearings look to be completely shot! I could "wiggle" the prop shafts quite freely. Also noticed that something has been rubbing on the rear prop shaft close to the rear diff. Looks to be the strap that holds the fuel tank. Didn't get a chance to look at the diff mounts, so will check them out tomorrow.

 

[Optimus Prime]

you can check if the problem with the key is a coding issue. put the key that doesn't work into the ignition, but don't turn it on. Then hold the key that does work up against the steering cowl close to the key in the lock barrel, then turn it on and try to start.

if it works, the key in the ignition is probably uncoded, as it will read the coding from the key that does work.

there is a possibility that the uncoded key may interfere with the coded key, but it's worth a try.

good luck

 

[Matt_TD4]

Cheers dude, will give it a try!