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Hello all I'm in the middle of doing a project with my uncle for is series 1 88" He has asked and insisted that the chassis be galvanised. My question in in regards to drilling the chassis in prep for it being dipped, What size drill holes are best / required and how many and where about's...

1999 reg 117 k 2.0 diesel l series with rear prop removed due to screwed viscous when pulling away if your in a higher gear ie 2nd if your on a very slow craw you get a grunting juddering sound if so say somethings rattling about the cars always done it but isthis normal? cheers

right help with this one please changed the fuel filter on a td4 in the rear arch. gone to start the car and have the ecu light staying on and car wont start the pump in the arch started to make its noice and now wont i have checked that its all plugged in and is and is getting power which it...

any one able to help with this one. the rear drivers side lock when i use the remote to unlock the car fully this door stays locked you can feel/hear the lock mototr doing something but its not unlocking the car... the only way to open it is use the handle inside the car. any ideas

well after spending a night looking at the FAQ section i found that one of the problems i had was a easy fix and cheap part. the fan inside the cab wouldnt work on setting number 1 for me all the rest worked and was anoying as i always have my cars with the fan on one just to clear he air...

cheers for the help, today had a good look under the car as the new roll bar bushes had arrived. fitted these along with the jubliee clamp to stop it moving back over. nice to know the rattle i thought was the IRD is not and is a simple fix. also the noise i had from turning the streering...

can any one confirm how the front anti roll bar is beld in place to stop it moving from left to right? is it just the bushes? reason i asked is on checking mine today i found that i was sitting on the suspension leg and i could move it from left to right of the car i am ordering new bushes...

in kent mate

would removing the prop really help that much?? read of mixed reveiws on this mod as to if your would get better MPG

drove past this today on way home from work,disco towing another disco on a trailer. bet that hurt.

thank you, as you say prob best for after market kit

can this be added to the freelander 1 xedi? if so how easy and whats needed?

has no one on here done a ird rebuild yet with the bearing kits?

also one to check is the timing on the diesel pump, this was the cause on mine. mine would be a git to start first thing int he morning but after that would be fine. only problem i still have is the lack of power at the start but once i have pulled of the drive i have full power back

have you got the burning smell as well.. i had the smae sort of noise once i had removed the prop it has gone. but i am the same running four diff make tyres which i will be changing soon

just save your shsh first so if you do get problems you can go back. and im running 4.2 JB with no probs

well since buying the freelander in the newyear i have had starting rpoblems only in the morning. did the normal CTS first then glow plugs (three of them anyway lol) this didnt fix the problem and after reading more on the forum it mentioned about how fussy the timing of the injector pump...

cheers on looking at the tyres they are all diff makes. when i removed the rear prop yesterday i didnt see any oil from the rear diff at all. or any from the front ird.

you got any photos?

cheers all removed the rear prop and it drivs much better does not feel like dragging down the road now and has its power back.