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Sorted, Took the top off the fluid reservoir, stirred up the fluid a bit, this must have released the level switch which had stuck from the fluid being pushed back as the new pads were fitted

Having stuck in a new set of front pads, the Handbrake Warning light is on. I gather this is also a double for low fluid level as well, as the fluid level will have risen with the new pads, is there anything else I should check

Anybody any idea what thread size the unions are?

Thanks for that, well worth investigating. A bit of searching has linked to other threads where the MAP was at fault giving exact same symptoms as mine, and disconnecting MAF seemed to finger the MAF but was not the problem. Just enjoying the performance and mpg from the disconnected MAF at...

It the correct later compatible direct unit from Pierburg so should be OK, I will try cleaning the plug with IsoProply, anyone any ideas where the wiriing runs to check?

OK - Now confused. Disconnected MAF - Performance now back to normal, MPG leaps for typical 36.5mpg tp over 40mpg, a bit rattly on start up, but runs. grreat, starts fine, no smoke. OK now fit new Pierburg MAF, performance drops, dead flat up to 300rpm and reluctance to rev, exactly same with...

Well, finally got the top cover of the engine and disconnected the MAF -= Result - normal service resumed, from not being able to skin a rice pudding to nice torquy pull!!! so its clearly a duff MAF. I am going to get one of these http://shop2.autotechnik24.de/product_info.php/products_id/51...

My 01 TD4 is lacking its old omph under 3000rpm, this was a sudden loss, fine one day and not the next! It starts fine and runs smoothly, no smoke and no mgt lights on dash It is totally flat until 3000rpm when you can feel the surge revs up to 4k without effort, but under 3k its very dead. MAF?

Same symptoms as mine, try bleeding the clutch first, as in post above

See My post on 'Bleeding the clutch', its a dragging clutch most likely, I had exact same symptoms, if the bite point of the clutch 'in the carpet' and pedal spongy at beginning of travel suspect the hydraulics. I did on a Disco have the same symptoms, but that was a broken clutch arm!!

As fighting the gear stick had become near impossible, and the clutch biting point was buried in the carpet somewhere, decided to have a go at bleeding the clutch. Nothing useful in the workshop manual, and research showed that the Hydraulics are sold as a sealed unit!! but that bleeding was...

Any idea what pipe dia I should use and what size the unions??

The front metal brake pipes are getting a bit rusty and need replacement. Is it easier to make up a copper set from a kit or get the pre made metal ones?? Any recommendations on a suitable kit?

No, its full in on the electric adjuster, manually adjusted, not using the switch in the car have unclipped the unit to see and make sure they are working ok. I reckon on having the light unit off the car, to see if the unit can be packed/spaced on the bottom mount, but that's a bumper off job

:doh:Mr MOT is unhappy that the headlamp aim is too low. Seem to have run out of adjustment to get aim higher. I was in with the tester fiddling, so he not having me on.:doh: OS just OK, NS too low. Unclip the motors and there is plenty of movement to get it up. Any ideas? There is no...

Ok- Thanks Job done, nice short cross head Driver needed to remove screws. Not a lot of space to get filter in and out!! but managed, given state of filter, not been changed often!!! Worse than my Hoover!! Sweet fresh air now

A got a Service Kit for my TD4, all the filters and gubbins for a service, but no clue where the Pollen filter is located, As I have got it I thought I would replace it, but cannot see where its fitted!!! Any one know!!

My Td4 was starting OK just, but laboured start, some smoke, and very lumpy on tick-over and for first 100- 200 metres, after that was fine. I used a bottle of Millers Injector cleaner (whole bottle in about 45 litres of Diesel) after 200 miles Transformed!! I was sceptical to begin with, but...

I do say remove bolt holding mech to window before removing moter mech from door, no need to remove the glass, that will slide up and down in the door in its runners

Check my post on the ebay kit - recommended at tenner + postage http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/window-regulator-115619.html#post11815