If the piston is that tight then it is corroded and will not improve. Sometimes you can put a block of wood in the caliper and press the brake to expose the piston without popping it out !! Then pull back the rubber gaiter and check / clean the...
Well yes, but I was convinced I would be taking console out and stripping the thing and had little confidence that a £5 cleaning disc would work. But it did! Saved a couple of hours. It was a facelift multi cd in the dash.
Took the Sport 18 inch alloys for blasting and refinishing. They weren't bad at first glance but the insides were corroded. Will report back on finish. Looks to be a good place.
Flexplate is the effective flywheel for an auto. It bolts on where the flywheel comes off. Then it bolts to the torque converter on the auto box. The pilot bearing to come out is in the centre of the crank at the flywheel end.
If a mechanic is...
Done this !
Remove flywheel, fit flexplate.
Don't forget to remove pilot bearing in end of crank or auto torque converter won't fit !!!
Strictly speaking the injectors are different for the engine profiles, but I left the manual injectors in and...
If you get knocking with left and right hand steering movement, cup your hand around the track rod end ball joints just behind the front tyres and get someone to rock the steering while steering lock is off. Any play will be felt.
Did mechanic...
Didn't know the early ones did that, the TD4 immobiliser, if not correctly satisfied, cuts the feed to the starter motor relay so no solenoid and no starter operates.
Immobiliser issue would prevent cranking.
Check the plug on the end of the fuel rail. This pressure sensor plug gets corroded connections and can turn green with build up of crud. Easy to check. Battery end of fuel.rail. 3 wires.
Possibly. Should not be play in shaft joints. If only under load that is where I would start. Get a genuine GKN shafy as cheap ones vibrate too. Could try swapping wheels front to rear. Could be balancing. Free to try !!
Sadly the bits don't repair the rusted frame.
You'll need a scrap vehicle to take one out of. Bolts to inside of roof. Then clean and paint with anti rust and fit along with a new seal. Check all drain pipes are clear or wet sits in frame.
More an observation really.
Most TD4s I have driven give the turbo spool whine at about 1750rpm.
Now my Sport, being the quickest and most responsive TD4 I have ever driven (and I have driven loads) lets out a whine at 1750rpm and then another...
Good news ! Saves a load of work.
Would be interested to know what part of the procedure went wrong as it would help us not make that same mistake!!
Glad it's sorted.
My TD4 Sport had an advisory for an oil leak for many MOTs before I bought it.
It was just a loose intercooler pipe clamp dripping onto the engine cover.
That is exactly where mine broke off.
Not difficult to change the bracket. Fortunately I had a spare engine to rob one from. Don't have another sadly, just checked.