That's more like a cheap puller for stubborn wiper arms.
How about a metal bar underneath the steering wheel spoke, close to the boss, and whack it upwards.
Obviously you have undone the centre nut, looks done up in the photo.
Haha. Thanks. Yes I did it up again because I needed to drive today
 
Got it off yet?
Yes! Just done it with the help of a better puller. Thanks to everyone here for the advice.

It will have to come off again at some point because I need to buy an indicator cancelling ring. I thought there’d be one behind the Momo wheel but it just has two screws sticking out the back. See pic. It looks like somebody adapted it for a Land Rover at some point.

(Are non-cancelling indicators an MOT failure?)
 

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Cancelling ring is on the column and you should have two little tabs on the back of the new wheel to locate into it. These are what the screws do on the momo adapter.
Blue bit in the link.
 
Cancelling ring is on the column and you should have two little tabs on the back of the new wheel to locate into it. These are what the screws do on the momo adapter.
Yes I’ve seen pics of the cancelling ring but I don’t have one with the new (old) wheel so will have to get one.
 
I also did not realise they were a sperate part, I though tit was integrated into the steering wheel. But I also agree with the previous comments these are the beast steering wheel for a defender!
It’s here. Not cheap though — £2.17 per gram

IMG_1327.jpeg
 
That's more like a cheap puller for stubborn wiper arms.
How about a metal bar underneath the steering wheel spoke, close to the boss, and whack it upwards.
Obviously you have undone the centre nut, looks done up in the photo.

Never take it all the way off, you get face ache or a window out otherwise ...
 
Ok… how do I get this indicator cancelling ring onto the wheel, please?

The outside diameter of the metal ring is pretty much the same as the bit that sticks out on the back of the steering wheel. So it will be a very tight fit. I’ve messed around with two pairs of pliers but can’t get it on. I suppose I could be rougher with it but I’m not sure how far it’s supposed to bend and at £22 I don’t want to break it. Any tips?

I’m going to get hold of some circlip pliers to try.

I’ve seen mention online of some locating lugs to get it into the right position but I can’t see anything that positive on mine.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Put the wheel back on the boss, leave the nut on, undone just about enough turns to protect the threads, put your knees under the wheel so you can push upwards on it while you take a short extension and a lump hammer to the splined and threaded end of the steering column. Give it a damn good belt. I've never known one need more than one or two belts.
Your knees don't just apply pressure, they protect any safety devices in the steering column from being damaged by the blows on the end of it.
 
Sorry @kevstar did a "you" by not reading to the end, to see that your way is similar to mine only not so polite to the steering column and its ancillary safety devices, like crushable bits, or slide off bits. 🤣 🤣

Do cars still have these I wonder?
 
It’s finally on. Thanks for all your help/advice.

The metal cancelling ring is a stubborn little thing. It needed a lot of force on the circlip pliers to get it onto the wheel.

Once it was on I didn’t expect it to work. If you look at the picture you’ll see that the prongs are not quite at 12 and 6 o’clock, it’s more like 11 and 7. So I didn’t think it would line up with the blue plastic cancelling thing.

But it does… and it’s ended up better than it was before. The Momo wheel has the indicator prongs 90 degrees out of line and so whoever fitted that had rotated the blue plastic bit 90 degrees too. That explains why the indicators worked properly on the left but the right indicator was always cancelling itself much too early. They work normally now. It’s a good result.

And I now have a lock washer too which is probably a good thing.
 

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