Window mechanism!

Hi all, i have a funny grinding noise when i open & close my passenger window.


I took the panel off to see if it needed some grease to stop it grinding, but i found that the wire that raises and lowers the window was kinda spliced so there were loose threads of wire sticking out.

The question is, do i have to replace the whole mechanism or just the wire?

Please help, Kris

Seem to remember someone fixed it by using a bicycle brake cable ??

Id like to replace the wire and not the whole thing! Anybody know what i can do etc.

Thanks willow, hopefully someone comes along who knows.

willo said:

Seem to remember someone fixed it by using a bicycle brake cable ??

Click to expand...

That was me Willo, good memory, I am glad someone was listening

Kris24 said:

Id like to replace the wire and not the whole thing! Anybody know what i can do etc.

Thanks willow, hopefully someone comes along who knows.

Click to expand...

All you need is a brake cable from a bike. Assuming the pulleys are still intact and not broken

New cable and runners are about £90, not worth it considering thay are a few pounds to make.

You will need to remove the glass first, lower it to the correct height to undo the clamps. Use a marker to mark position of clamps on the glass.

Both runners need to come out, fold them side ways to get them out of the door. Cable coil is tricky to remove, the two cables wind on to spindle in opposite directions. Four self tappers hold the spindle in place.

There is a brass hex lug on the end of the cable. I used a molten lead to create a new lug on the end of the cable.
Drill a 5 or 6mm hole in a piece of hard wood, then heat some lead using a gas torch or stove, insert cable end (cut to correct size). pour in the molten lead and allow to set for 10 seconds.
Copper crimped on to the cable could also be used.
You need to swan neck the cable to prevent the lug from coming off. Cut or file the lug to original size, I think it is 5mm???

Rewind cable over spindle, stretch cable covers over outlets of spindle housing. This is the hard bit, springs at the other end of the cable keep it in high tension.

reassemble

Wow!!!!

Sounds a little complicated for me.

Got a little confused as to the brass hex bit.

So i am to measure the bike brake cable up against the window one, the cut to length. Then the lead bit!!!!!!!!

What u mean by swan neck the cable?

Also what do yo mean by the copper crimped bit?

(I guess i will have to take it off, have a look at it then i will understand!)

Thanks Kris

Kris24 said:

Wow!!!!


What u mean by swan neck the cable?

Also what do yo mean by the copper crimped bit?

Click to expand...

A swan neck is just a hairpin kink in the cable, a bit like shepherds crook, a strong pair of pliers will bend the cable back on itself. Only takes about 5mm of cable folded back on itself.
The double cable thickness prevents the lead lug from slipping off, once it is molten around the end of the cable.

Copper crimped around the cable is another means to clasp a cable, these are commercially made in various sizes but for the purposes of the window cable a small 5mm strip will only be required.

It is crimped on to the end of the cable to prevent the ends fraying.

Personally I found the lead lug an easier DIY fix. Use an old table spoon to melt the lead over a gas stove/flame. You can cut the lead with a sharp stanley knife.

Sorry I have no photos of the repair job.... a pic is a thousand words.

Any local amenties yard will have plenty of scrap bikes with perfectly good cables.

Of course having said all that it is a solution to a problem that should have never existed. If Land Rover fitted stainless steel cables or even a liberal coating of grease then peeps wouldnt have this problem.

A good idea to lubricate the other window cables to prevent future corrosion.

Can be a good idea to use electrical solder instead of normal lead, as it's got flux built into it, which should ensure a better connection to the cable...

I've not done it on my Hippo, but I've used the technique to make a new throttle cable for my quad - it's lasted 3 years so far!

ShotgunDrew said:

Can be a good idea to use electrical solder instead of normal lead, as it's got flux built into it, which should ensure a better connection to the cable...

I've not done it on my Hippo, but I've used the technique to make a new throttle cable for my quad - it's lasted 3 years so far!

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Yes solder would also work, but unlike a throttle cable the window cables are under constant tension.
So a swan neck should guarantee a hassle free fix.

so its really easy then?

I will give it a go when i have a full day so im not rushing around trying to do it, just take it nice and slow.

Where can i get the lead from?

Kris24 said:

so its really easy then?

I will give it a go when i have a full day so im not rushing around trying to do it, just take it nice and slow.

Where can i get the lead from?

Click to expand...

Yes a couple of hours will do it, mini socket set and TORX bits will be needed for the self tapper screws (what ever happened to good old star head screws).

Think of what the dealers would charge plus parts price.

You can get lead from fishing weights, old wheel balances, your tyre depot will throw some your way, even from an old car battery. I dont suggest climbing up a ladder and taking the lead flashing off your roof. lol

A 10mm cube will be more than enough, dont forget to wrap the spoon handle in an old cloth when heating the lead.

Kris24 said:

Id like to replace the wire and not the whole thing! Anybody know what i can do etc.

Thanks willow, hopefully someone comes along who knows.

Click to expand...

Kris24 said:

so its really easy then?

I will give it a go when i have a full day so im not rushing around trying to do it, just take it nice and slow.

Where can i get the lead from?

Click to expand...

You see, I had the impression you didn't believe me when I mentioned to use a bike cable.....

got a diagram or a picture, how the cables should run? thx!

Look on EBAY someone is selling a repair kit with stainless wire and instructions, if your not sure about using bike inner cables you could try this.
(P.S. If you are going to use bike cables check the end of your window cable, because brake and gear cables have different ends , one is the same as your window cable. Then you can cut off the other end of your window cable drill it out and solder it onto the new cable, just get the length right. You will need a blow torch and flux to solder it on with )

I had a hell of a time getting my solder to "bond" to the stainless steel cable...any suggestions ?

I used flux etc...with a blow torch...

Methos.

Methos said:

I had a hell of a time getting my solder to "bond" to the stainless steel cable...any suggestions ?

I used flux etc...with a blow torch...

Methos.

Click to expand...

acid and silver solder?

I use aluminium flux paste from R.S.Compenents, it comes in a small 1 oz. bottle with some aly solder. Made by Lake Chemical Co. (says dont use on stainless water tubing ) I use it for aly, stainless and rechargable battery terminals. Dont breathe in the fumes and try not to get it on your hands, it really is acidic. If I can find the R.S. stock number I will let you know.

Is it this one here Ianda ? Linky

Methos

DAMN They don't seem to sell the stuff anymore!!! Probably because it is so lethal ( see specsheet from LACO co. ) I will have to use it more sparingly now as I can't get hold of any more. Bakers fluid flux might work, that's pretty corrosive.

Silver solder and flux will work with stainless steel, but you cant solder lead with it as it melts at a lower temp. than the solder, you will have to use copper or brass.

Sorry Methos thats not it. I used normal solder with aly. flux. I don't know if that stuff will work as i haven't tried it.